Bounty 27 window seals

[IanJ]

Hi all

 

I hope I'm in the forum, apologies if not.

 

I have a Bounty 27 with a couple of leaky windows. It is nothing desperate but would I would like to change the seals. I fancy I can do the job myself but have no idea what size of seal is required. I've googled and found nothing at all so I'm hoping some kind soul in here can advise as the required dimensions or where I can find the information.

 

Many thanks in advance

 

Ian

[BroadScot]

Hi Ian and welcome to the NBN Forum.   I am sure there will be someone along soon to pass on advice to you. 

 

Iain.

[JawsOrca]

Hi Ian, 

 

and   to the forum!

 

I guess a bounty 27 is similar to my boat. Are the windows leaking the ones that slide open? Or drop down? or are they non opening? 

 

Reply back and I'll advise with what the best thing to do is .. Don't worry though you will be able to stop the leak

 

Alan

[IanJ]

Thanks Iain.

 

They are the two non-opening ones by the galley, Alan. There's nothing obvious so I'm guessing that they've hardened a bit and capiliary action has taken over.

 

 

Ian

[JawsOrca]

Sorry Ian are they alloy or rubber frames? And does it look like its leaking via the glass or frame (if alloy) 

[VetChugger]

Try this company! Ring them and they will send you samples. Very helpful folk and seem to know about most makes of boat.

 

http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/

 

Then there is this company who will actually make you windows at a price! They will also refurbish your windows but do say it may be more economical to go for new ones which might hint at the cost!

 

Kellett Engineering of 59, Hill Top Road, Armley, Leeds, West Yorks. LS12 3PX.

 Tel: 0113 2639041

 

This lot will also make you windows

 

http://www.seaglaze.co.uk/products/marine_windows

[JawsOrca]

Sealsdirect are pretty good. We've used them a few times.

 

Here's some more links: 

http://www.thenorfolkbroads.net/forum/forum/203-boat-window-repairs/

 

We have used Hadlow marine quite a bit and recommend although he's down here in Kent, as with VC's recommendation he can do the work for you.

 

If it's an alloy frame though, the frame will really need to come out and be resealed (you can do a temporary fix using bathroom sealant although it won't last long - you could also try Creeping crack sealant http://www.marinescene.co.uk/product/2220/captain-tolleys-creeping-crack-cure if the frame is leaking via the window you will need to unscrew the frame and use silkaflex to rebed the window to the frame.. But don't use to rebed the frame to the fibreglass use Abromast BR (it's non setting and allows the flex as just lasts longer) http://www.dortechdirect.co.uk/window-installer-tools/Arbo-Mast-BR.html.  it's not a difficult job to remove the window but you will want a dry day and lots of patience.

 

Good luck

[IanJ]

Alan: I'm sorry, I have no idea at the moment. I am 200+ miles from the boat at the moment and only realised a couple of weeks ago that it's a job I could do myself (hopefully). I'm hoping to get over there this weekend. I *think* it's an alloy frame, but not really noticed. As for where it is leaking, I have no idea at all. I only know that when I go over to the boat, the other half gives me a hard time because the saucepans in the cupboard are usually half full of water. I think I might have to tell her to take some talc and we'll do a bit of tracing.

 

Vet: Thanks, that's great. My 'last resort' was to write to one of the vendors and see if they could recommend. But I thought I would get best advice from the gurus in here first.

 

Thanks

 

Ian

[JawsOrca]

No worries Ian. I sugguest you use the Creeping crack sealant (see above) to help trace the leak.. it's white (but sets clear) and if you use sparingly it can help to source the leak.. unfortunately if it's alloy it's likely the window will need to come out and be resealed, although it's worth following the instructions on there and emptying the whole bottle (over a few days) in the window as its good stuff and may fix it alone.. certainly worth trying (considering it's only a fiver!)!

 

But feel free to message back if that doesn't work and I can give you further tips how to take the windows out and back in again.. (We did four of the 6 windows on our project in 2 days although they wan't sealed in too well to start with). 

 

[IanJ]

Thanks Alan, that's wonderful. Creeping Crack ordered. It *may* get here for weekend as a lot of things do. I think that's about the last repair job to be done (apart from resticking a bit of the trim and reinflating a fender).

 

 

Ian

[JawsOrca]

Sounds good, fingers crossed! Have you got some pictures of your boat? (If you click the "More reply options" button you should see an upload option).

 

[IanJ]

Hi Alan

 

I do have some pix, I hope. I've sent them through my Hotmail account many times (including to myself) but I'm thinking that Hotmail has expired them (certainly expunged them!) as I just get a list of placeholders with 'Click for full size image', which does nothing. Bwah!

 

I'll check on my laptop when I get home - I'm at work now. It's only a standard Bounty 27 but is perfect for what I want it for - fishing.

 

 

Ian

[stumpy]

Just a thought - are the drain holes in the channel clear? Our Bounty has about an eighth inch hole from the outside into the ally channel on the inside of the non-opening panes in the galley and head. These block regularly and need rooting out with a toothpick. Something we also had was a leak from the tap connection under the sink which did fill the saucepans under the sink - quick tweak with a small adjustable sorted that.

[IanJ]

Nice thought about the drain holes. I didn't know there were any, so many thanks for that. I'll check at the weekend. It's not a leak from under the sink - had one of those when the circlip loosened and the pipe popped off while cruising along. X gallons of nice clean water in the bilge! The surface under the windows gets wet, and not just condensation,

 

I was going to attach a couple of pix, as requested by Alan, but the Browse button isn't working for some reason. I'll mail the pix to myself and try again from the office in the morning.

 

 

Ian

[650xs]

ask a man who can .............????

 

is the boat here on tuk broads ?

 

if  so and on my door step we will  look at it and report back best action ...???

 

always happy to help

 

bung it up with goo or fix properly and enjoy the view !......yer windows your budget ??

 

happy boating !

[IanJ]

No, the boat isn't on the Broads. I'm an ex-Broadsman. I holidayed on the Broads from 1963 until I moved to Ludham in 1997. I now live in Dublin, for work, and my boat is on the Shannon at Carrick-on-Shannon. I was back over sailing out of Jimmy Brown's at Martham last year but my cruising and fishing is now done in Ireland. But, once a Broads lover, always a Broads lover.

 

I've managed to attach a couple of pix but I didn't realise they were so small. I don't know what happened to the full size ones I had. They may be on my old laptop. I'll have to dig it out and have a look.

 

 

Ian

[Oddfellow]

The windows have seals around the glass and the ali frame and seals between the frame and the boat.

 

Both are prone to leaking over time.

 

The seals between the boat and the frame are a diy job if you fancy it. Not necessarily easy.

 

Most original windows are held in with machine screew through the outside into a think strip of ali on the inside into which is set a bunch of interscrews. These are commonly a bitch to get out as the ribbing on the screw that grips the ali has invariably worn away leading to the interscrew turning as you try to loosen the screw on the outside. Sometimes a bit of pressure on the interscre cap will prevail. often you need to grip it with a pair of  mole grips or in the worst cases, cut a slot in them and use a screw driver.

 

This is a two person job and one that can easily damage things if you slip with tools.

 

It is also, very likley, that you will not be able to use this same material to refit the window as it will be mishapen and if too many interscrews simply turn in the ali strip, you'll be cursing when they leak again as you can't close the gap properly.

 

Replacement is commonly by a new ali box section on the inside, cut to length with proper angles at the corners. This is OK if you have square edged windows, If you have rounded windows, you will need someone to bend the box channel to the right radius. In this case, you need to refit using a stainless steel self-tapping screw fitted into pre-drilled holes into the ali box section. Again, this is a two person job.

 

(anyone feeling this is a professional job yet?).

 

With the window out, clean away ALL old sealant from the window and the boat. Leave no trace of the old stuff.

 

We would refit using a proper marine sealant designed for the job. DO NOT GO TO B&Q AND GET FRAME SEALANT.

 

 

If your window is leaking from the glass seals, seriously, get a professional to do them.

[IanJ]

Ouch! It is starting to sound a tad serious. I was thinking along the lines of taking off any covering strip, taking out the window, cleaning up, new sealant and seal and putting back the cover. There's two of us but it's not a job I'm going to relish if it's too techy. I do have a tame boat person up the river. He deals mainly with engines and other mechanicals, but his brother does refurb, so that might be the best option. But, I do have some Creeping Crack on order and I'll give that a go first. It's not a huge leak, there aren't torrents pouring in every time a cloud goes over, but it is noticeable. I have a good dehumidifier running so things aren't getting damaged. The fix is mainly to stop 'er indoors from moaning about the saucepans being wet again.

[Oddfellow]

We send all our window refurbishment work to Trevor Preece.

 

He takes work from all over the country, so, if you can pack your windows safely and put them on a carrier, he would be happy to do them for you.

 

 

http://www.boatwindowrepairs.co.uk/contact.html

[Oddfellow]

Creaping Crack sealant, in my experience is a waste of money.

 

Expect it to do nothing useful and you won't be dissapointed. It certainly is not a permenant fix.

 

It is not the amount of water coming in thats the problem, it's the length of time it's been doing it and the damage it's causing, often unseen. 

 

Leaky fittings are deadly to boats. A boat we're working on that had leaking windows and a leaking roof vent has caused internal woodwork to rot, cabinets to delaminate and the balse core material in the roof to rot away causing spongy patches in the structure of the boat. Left unchecked, this rot would progress and devalue the boat, possibly making areas of the roof dnagerous to stand or sit on.

 

You must attend to leaks.