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DaveS

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Everything posted by DaveS

  1. As the saying goes, "don't bite the hand that feeds you" If you are in business, and wish to stay in business, then there will be times when you will have to smile and suffer a fool, as his money is as good any ones. Again, as the saying goes, "if you can't stand the heat, then stay out of the kitchen", especially when it involves a customer facing role. I have nothing negative or positive to say about Norfolk Marine, as I have only dealt with them on-line, and they did no more, or no less than I would expect of a business. Had I gone into the shop, and been met with the attitude of the individual referred to by several people here, then I would not have bothered with them again. Within the Broads area, I have dealt with Brian Ward, who were exceptionally helpful on one particular occasion, and A.S.A.P whom I also found helpful and efficient. A happy customer is likely to be a returning customer, whereas an unhappy customer, is a customer lost. Dave
  2. Thanks for the 'heads up' from me too. Have now ordered a copy. Dave
  3. Spent something like 20+ years towing caravans, including around most of Europe. In the early days, with 2.0L petrol engine cars (mainly Mondeos), before moving over to a 2.0L diesel a diesel engine Mondeo in 2003. The difference between the petrol engine and diesel engine vehicles for towing, was like 'chalk & cheese, with the diesel being far superior in terms of both pulling power (Torque) and fuel economy. In 2006 ( the year we eventually gave up caravanning and bought a boat), I bought a 2.2L diesel Nissan X-Trail, which without any shadow of doubt, was the best vehicle that I'd ever towed with. Even though I had given up towing caravans, I was so impressed with the X-Trail, that I bought another one in 2009, except the new model had the later 2.0L 175bhp diesel engine. With 175bhp it used go like 's*** off a shovel', and still return an average of 45mpg. Dave
  4. Hi Jonzo Thanks for the prompt response, and confirming that its an inherent 'skin' design' problem. In the overall scale of things, it isn't a significant issue, but one for the 'back burner', perhaps to be resolved when more important issues have been dealt with.. Although I'm familiar with pbpBB and Word Press, this software is a bit of an unknown to me. Dave
  5. Maybe it me "not seeing the wood for the trees", but the default set for avatar images seems to be at a 1:1 aspect ratio. The are very few in any cameras in common use, that produce images with a 1:1 aspect ratio. Since the software upgrade, in order to take a standard format image, and use it for an avatar, it either has to be shrunk in the horizontal axis, or stretched in the vertical axis. Either way, it distorts the image. Alternatively, a lot of unnecessary background has to be included in order that the image can be 'cropped' to produce a 1:1 aspect ratio. This of course defeats the object of having main foreground subject in the image. This is the only forum that appears to have this issue, and it didn't have before the software upgrade. Is this a non-adjustable setting with the new software, and as such we are stuck with it, or is it optional? Dave
  6. Know the boat, and its previous owner At one time it was moored at the same marina as is my boat. Welcome aboard Dave
  7. Ok, problem sorted and the Propex 1800 is now working Went down to the boat today, to have one last attempt to get the unit to fire up, before ordering the new design of ignition module from Propex (circa £50). When the boat was out of the water, I had removed the 'baffle plate' on the 'through hull' balanced flu, and blown (via mouth) up both the inlet and exhaust pipes, as suggested by Propex, to try and free the combustion air input fan. This didn't work, so I connected the pipe from a dinghy inflator pump, and tried blasting it with this. Again no joy. Today, I disconnected the combustion air input pipe from the heater, and connected the pipe from the dinghy pump to the inlet spigot. With the wife up in the cockpit working the pump , and me laying in the bilge holding the pipe in-place, to maintain a good seal, we gave it a good blast . Fired up the heater, and 'bingo' it worked . I then reconnected the pipe from the balanced flu, while the heater was running, and it stayed running. The moral of the story is, if you have a Propex heater, with the earlier type of ignition module (Propex have now changed the design because this problem), don't leave the unit unused for extended periods. Give it a run now and then, even in a heatwave , or the problem will just keep on happening. Dave
  8. I too like Beccles It has retained its quaint small country town feel, and the toasted tea cakes, or afternoon cream teas in Twyfords are lovely. Never used the toilets or the showers at the harbour, so I can't comment, but they would have to go a long way to beat those at the Waveney River Centre, which are excellent. The little ice cream shop at the harbour sells really tasty soft ice cream, but their prices are a bit on the high side, IMO. As for the harbour itself, the moorings are good, and it isn't too far to walk up into the town, The loss off the harbour master last year, was a very sad thing, as he made the place all the more pleasant, with his accomodating, pleasant, and helpful manner. I just hope that his replacement will follow in his footsteps. Dave
  9. Your comments seem to align very nicely with the multitude of other Propex users, in that it is a VERY common problem. When the boat was out of the water, I removed the baffle plate from the flue fitting on the outside of the hull, stuffed plastic pipe up both the intake and exhaust, and blew for all I was worth, to no availl. I then tried it with a high volume dinghy inflator, but again no joy. So if it is case of the fan sticking, it is well and truly stuck, I tried just about every sequence of turning it on and off, but no go. Basically, its a 'crap' design, which is supported by the fact that Propex probably had so many people contacting them about this problem, they have changed the design of the ignition module. I will take the ingition unit out, and see if it can be sorted, but if not it looks like its £50 for a new module. On the basis of this problem, if the re-designed module doesn't sort the problem, then I certainly would not recommend Propex. Dave
  10. I have Propex 1800 on my boat, and it doesn't work. More specifically, it starts up with the normal 30 second fan blast to clear the combustion chamber, but then won't ignite, and the LED on the control panel flashes a five pulse sequence, which = failure to ignite. A Google search revealed that it is a very common problem, and usually due the failure of a small fan on air intake side of the balanced flue. Apparently, if the unit isn't used regularly, this fan sticks, and it doesn't spin, the electronics see this as a fault condition, and will not let the unit ignite. Having spoken to Propex, they are very aware of this fault, and suggest blowing up the combustion air intake with a air-line, to free the fan of any cobwebs or such like. I tried tried this several times, to no avail, and after speaking with Propex again, they told me that because of this problem, they now use a different ignition module. The new module can be purchased from them for something like £50. Before I buy one, I'm going to open the unit, and see if I can free the fan. Dave
  11. I have a Carbon Monoxide detector fitted in the cabin of my boat. But of course, unlike a smoke detector, there is no easy way of testing it. I can only assume (hope) that it will work if its ever needed to. Dave
  12. Not surprising really, this sort of behaviour is very much 'par for the course' with some elements of todays society. Sad, but true unfortunatley, and I can't see it changing. Dave
  13. Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 DC EX series lens. Mint condition - fitted with UV filter from new - Sigma case - in original box. Reason for selling, am buying a Canon 24-105mm L series lens, which will mean taking fewer lenses when travelling abroad on holiday. £85 + p&p, or buyer can collect. Dave
  14. Maybe being based near to the Oulton Broad end of the Waveney, it is quite likely that we are in fresh water. In fact, given the fresh water fish that we catch down there, it would seem to support this. I will check to see if there is an electrical connection between the engine and the 'pop-shaft', although I suspect that there is. Life is never simple is it Dave
  15. That is a very interesting indeed John, and would certainly seem to indicate that on the Broads, galvanic corrosion isn't a significant problem. Conversly, Mark reports that in his case, it is significant. My boat is 7 years old, and to the best on my knowledge has been kept and used on the Broad's, with the occassional trip out to sea, and yet there is no evidence of galvanic corrosion on either the Prop or the ruddder. From day one it has had a zinc anode on the factory fitted bow thruster, and the stern thruster (same unit as the bow thruster) which was fitted in September 2011, will also have a zinc anode, because this is the only type that Vetus fit. I intend to remove the props from the thrusters and check the state of the zinc anodes fitted behind. As there is no alternative to the zinc ones fitted, all I can do here is to either clean then up, or fit shiny new ones. I can see that the zinc prop-nut anode has been doing something, as it has a coating of zinc hydroxide, and some 'pitting' is evident. I have read reports of where in some Brackish and also some Salty marinas, Zinc anodes have been eroded away is just 5 months. Of course these relate to boats being connected to shore power, and earth leakage current arising from from this. These being described as 'hot marinas'. Out of interest, I might just buy a Magnesium hull anode, connect it to the zero volt rail, and leave it dangled over the side, when the boat is moored up in the marina. That way, I can see if there is any erosion over time. I suspect, that when I install a galvanic isolator, it will likely be minimal. Dave
  16. Hi Mark Martyr certainly do offer the correct size/type of prop-nut anode (their CMAN230), and I have e-mailed their European contact point to ask if there is an aluminium option. Also if they have a UK stockist. If they do, then although that solves the problem with the prop-nut anode, it still leaves me the problem of the two thuster anodes, as apparently mixing anodes of different materials on a boat is a 'no-no'. It may be that on the Broads galavanic corrosion isn't a significant problem with boats not using 'shore power', and those that do can be protected with a Galvanic Isolator. Albeit, as you said earlier, you have an isolator, and yet your aluminium anodes were eroded. I now know that MGDuff don't offer an aluminium Beneteau type prop-nut anode, and accoding to one Chandlery that stocks MGDuff anodes, it appears that MGDuff are actually reducing the range of aluminum anodes that they produce, as there very little call for them. Apparently, zinc will provide protction while it is clean, but the problem is, when used in fresh water, a coating of Zinc Hydroxide forms, which effectively insulates the anode. One suggestion that has been made, is to install a hull mounted magnesium anode, and bond this to the boat's zero volt rail (ground), as this will electrolytically erode in the mainly fresh Broads water. However, I still don't know if the 'only one type of anode' rule is truly technically correct. The whole subject of boat anodes is very much a case of 'no one type fits all'. If you reside in salt water there is a suitable anode, as is the case for both brackish and fresh water, but if you traverse all three, then you are stuffed. Dave
  17. I'm not sure what a 'P' bracket is, but if its something that supports the shaft, as seen in Perry's picture, then I don't have one. The shaft comes straight out of the hull tunnel, and straight onto the prop. Even if I managed to get an aluminiun type shaft-nut anode, there is nothing that I can do about the anodes on the thrusters, they just aren't made in aluminium. I have also read a technical article that states Aluminium and Zinc anodes should never be mixed. Its either all zinc or all aluminium. I am rapidly coming to the conclusion that I am going to be stuck with zinc anodes, albeit there is some 'pitting' evident on the shaft nut anode, so it must have doing something at some time, but of coures this may relate to the time when it was used in salt water. But then again, there is no evidence of any 'pitting' on the prop or rudder, both of which are bronze. So again this might indicate that the zinc anodes have been providing a degree of protection. I will install a Galvanic Isolator, as this is will protect against any stray current when connected to shore power. Other than that, if as it is, Vetus only supply zinc anodes for their thrusters, and MGDuff don't only make Zinc end of shaft anodes, I am truly stuck with the zinc. All very strange really, as a large number of boats, especially those on the Broads, traverse fresh, Brackish, and salt water. I wonder what type of anodes the hire companys fit to the boats, especially as these are shaft drive, and many have bow thrusters. Perhaps Clive could comment on this? Dave
  18. That's an interesting possibility Perry. It might be worth speaking with MGDuff, and see if the adapter-kit anodes will fit in place of the Beneteau type shaft anode that I have. Looking at the amonut of exposed sahft that you have, you could have fitted a 'clamp on' type shaft anode, if the other option hadn't been available. I would have gone down that route if there had been some exposed shaft to attach it to. Dave
  19. Here's the Vetus Thruster anode, that 'sits' behind the prop. As you can see, very much a 'custom fit' Dave
  20. Just had a look at Sidepower's website, and I can see that their thruster anodes are very different to Vetus, in that the Sidepower anodes fit on the front of the prop, where as the Vetus ones are at the rear of it, and fixed to the thruster body, as opposed to the prop. So, it looks like its back to 'square one' on this option. Dave
  21. Hi Mark Thanks for that info, I clearly was 'barking up the wrong tree' here. Equally as worrying is that you say that your aluminium anodes only lasted one season This effectively means that the boat would have to be lifted, and the anodes replaced every year. Although my boat has zinc anodes which I'm guessing have been in situ for a few years, and which are apparently ineffective in fresh, or even brackish water, I couldn't see any signs of galvanic pitting on either the bronze prop or rudder. So, have these zinc anodes been offering some sort of limited protection, I wonder. The whole subject of galvanic protection seems to revolve around zinc anodes, with magnesium and aluminium being very much the poor relation. Especially, when manufacturers such as QL and Vetus, seem only to offer zinc. I will look into what JPC have to offer, albeit the Vetus thruster anodes are bit more complex in shape than just a disc with holes in them. From what I can see from the diagram in the Vetus manual, the anode is hollowed out at the rear, two large cut-outs in the rim, and a machined step in around the rim on the front. So very much a 'custom fit'. Even if the JPC ones could be modified, I would still be left with the problem of finding an anode to fit the end of the drive shaft. Life is never easy, is it Dave
  22. Indeed Mark, I have both a Bow and Stern Thruster, and each has a Zinc anode behind the prop. However, following some interesting and helpful conversations today with French Marine (Norwich), and Vetus UK, it seems that I now have to take a different route to provide effective galvanic protection for my boat. Vetus do not offer an aluminium option for this anode. A magnesium version could be ordered from their supplier in Italy, but is not stock item. Its is possible that MGDuff would be able to make me one as a 'special', as it is a standard 30mm Beneteau type cone shaped, shaft end anode. It seems, looking around the chandlery web sites, that there isn't an aluminium option with this type of anode from any outlet. Even if there was, it would still leave me with a problem, as each of the Vetus thrusters is fitted with a 'custom fit' zinc anode, with no aluminium option availabe. I'm guessing that giving its better conductivity, galvanic corrosion is a more significant problem in salt water, than in fresh water. Hence Vetus fitting Zinc anodes as standard to their thrusters, and the greater proliferation and availability of Zinc anodes. So, the only sensible option would seem to be to leave all the ineffective Zinc anodes in-place, and install a Galvanic Isolator to prevent any leakage current from flowing in the first place. This way, the anodes will become dormant, and surplus to requirements. A galvanic isolator is not the cheapest of options, but the most practical for my particular boat. I might even look into obtaining suitable plus an enclosure, and building one. A 'plus-point' is, as the only way to check the depletion of any anodes fitted to my boat, would be to have the boat lifted, with a galvanic isolator installed I won't to worry about the state of the anodes. Dave
  23. The boat was new in 2005, and I am the third owner. I know that the last owner had the boat moored in a Marina at Brundall, and given just how furred the anode is, I suspect its main use was on the Braods. I suspect that the first owner, liked to venture out onto the 'salty side', as the boat is fitted with the 100HP diesel engine option. The options are 56HP for inland water, 75HP for estuary, and 100HP for coastal. Plus the fact that in addition to a depth finder, it also has a dedicated 'fish finder' installed, and a hefty Danforth anchor. My guess is that the second owner didn't change the anode from Zinc to Aluminium or Magnesium. I have to wonder that as we travesre the whole of the Broads network, including Breydon, if an Aluminium Anode might be a good compromise. There is a possibility that I might even want to try a trip out to the 'salty side', but it would be an out and back venture, so it shouldn't be much of a problem in having the wrong anode. Dave
  24. Sorted!! Half an hour ago, I sent off an e-mail to the boat's maufacturer, asking for the details of the anodes that they fit to this particular model. Within half an hour, I had a reply from the MD, giving me the info that I needed. Pretty impressive service!! Dave
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