DaveS

I'm guessing this is what I want: http://www.norfolkmarine.co.uk/shop-onl ... 19016.html Albeit it doesn't state whether they are Zinc, Magnesium, or Aluminium. Also need to try and find what size shaft fitting I need. Hopefully, if I give them the dimensions of the anode that is in situ (52mm L, 42mm Dia at one end. and 37mm at the other, with a 13mm dia hole for the bolt), they might be able to identify it. Dave

Strowager, you are indeed correct with regards Magnesium for fresh water use. It was my mistake, as I should consulted the survey report before 'posting'. I hadn't looked at the report since last August, and for some obscure reason I had Magnesium fixed in my mind, instead of Zinc. I quote from the Survey Report: One anode was fitted to the vessel: a cone anode on the prop shaft, aft of the propeller. This was of Zinc construction, and suitable for seawater use. This had furred over, as commonly happens in fresh water, and may not be providing protection against galvanic attack. Apologies for getting it wrong, and thank you for correcting me. Dave

The survey report on my boat, which I bought last September, stated that the wrong type of Anode was fitted at the end of the prop-shaft. Apparently it is a Magnesium Anode, which while ideal for salt water, is next to useless in fresh water, and that an Aluminium Anode would be suitable. Today I went down to the boat, which has been out of the water since November, to look at removing the Anode so that I could use it as a size and fitting guide, when buying a new Aluminium one. After scraping off the bulk of the crud that had built up, due to the Anode not working in fresh water, I found what appears to be an Allen Key Headed bolt in the hole at the back end of the Anode. I'm assuming that this is what secures the Anode to the prop-shaft, is that correct? Excuse my ignorance on this, but this is the first shaft-drive boat that I have had. I have attached a couple of photos that I took with my phone's camera, and the close-up is way out of focus, as I had to site the camera between the rudder and the end of the prop shaft, so it was very close. Dave

Indeed, and thank goodness that the young girl was found safe and well. Dave

Hello Neil Dave

Haven't been for the past couple of years now, as the novelty of looking at what I can't afford, has worn off. Unlikely that I will ever bother again. Much preferred the now defunct Ipswich Boat Show, and I may go to the Horning Boat show, just to see what its like, albeit I will travel by car, and the parking arrangements, which are generally very limited in Horning, are likely to be a problem. Going by boat and be able to moor, would likely be an impossibility. Dave

Thanks Jim. Am now half way through the 7.5 weeks of treatment, and have started to experience some side-effects, but I'll survive Dave

Absolutely Jim!!. The wife of mate of mine, had a hip replaced a few months ago, and it has turned her life around. Let's hope we actually get a summer next year, for Maxine to make up for the lost enjoyment time on the boat. Dave

That's good news Jim Dave

Sad news indeed Mike was always pleasant and helpful, and he will be missed by the many who knew him Rest in peace Mike, there's no pain where you are now. My condolences to his family. Dave

I have a tube-heater fitted in the engine bay, but with that you are reliant on the mains supply. A power-cut or 'Trip' going out on the 'Shore Power' supply line, and you could be in trouble. Hence why I have gone for 'winterising' as opposed to using the tube-heater. Dave

These might well do the job. The circular version comes with either an 8" or 10" access, while the rectangular type give a 9" x 10 3/4" access. Along the length of the berth side of the bulkhead, there is a timber support bar for the bed, and the access point cannot straddle this. If the point of access to the pump, falls below this, then the access panel/hatch will be nicely out of sight below the bed. If not, it will have to be on-show above the bed. Dave

Thanks for your input guys, its much appeciated. I now have no doubt, that an access panel is going to be essential, and I will assess just how big it needs to be, in the Spring. The bulkhead is made of marine ply, which is fibreglassed into the surrounding GRP structure around the perimeter. On the berth side, it is carpeted, and on the engine side is 25mm foam rubber. Apart from providing access to the pump, it would also be useful in providing access to the Alternator, should this ever be necessary, especially the bottom mounting bolts. On the other side of the engine, access to the oil filter is quite easy, as there is a lot more space, and less 'clutter' above it. Dave

A nice neat job, and that might be the way to go, when I tackle the issue in the spring. I had a look today, and the water pump does sit the other side of the bulkhead in single under cockpit berth. Just need to do some measurement, to make sure that I come through the bulkhead, in the right place I think I'm ok now for winter, as I took the raw water hose that goes pump off at the weed-filter end, and dopped the end down into the bilge, and a fair bit of water came out. The other two drain points, one at the bottom of the heat exchanger, and the other on the geabox cooler, I was able to get at. I then did as Mark suggested and cranked the engine for a few revolutions, which will hopefully have shifted any water laying in the pump. Some 50/50 antifreeze and water down into the toilet, and sucked up into the pump, and the same treatment for the shower tray pump. Fenders off, and stowed in the boat, and the mudweigth brought home for a coat of paint. So, that should be the boat 'put to bed' for the winter Dave

I emptied the drinking water filter, when I drained the domestic system Mark, but thanks for thinking of it. If I'm able to get to the other three raw water drain points, then I could as you suggest, turn the engine over a few times to empty the pump. I'll see how I get on tomorrow. Dave

Indeed, I can see the need to get access to the pump, especially to change the impeller when needed. The bulkhead to the left of the engine, is the wall of the under-cockpit single berth, which is lined with wall carpeting. The engine side has noise reducing foam attached to it. An access panel could be cut into this, although it wouldn't be aesthetically pleasing, but if the only alternative is to remove the heat-exchanger tank which sits above the raw water pump, or have to have the engine lifted, then cutting a hole in the bedroom wall might be the sensible option. My immediate concern, is to get the raw water system drained, of filled with anti-freeze solution, then I can look at other options in the spring. I need to 'crack-on' with this, as I'm about to start (Monday) a course of hospital treatment, which will require my attending the hospital, every day for seven and half weeks. Although I will get the weekends free, I'm not sure how I will react to the treatment, in terms of feeling much like making the two hour return trip to the boat, plus working on it while I'm there. The plan for tomorrow, was to drain down the raw water system, if I could, take the fenders off, and cover the canopy with a tarpaulin. It seems that I might now have to get some antifreeze, and make another trip get this into the system. Dave

Thanks for your input guys, much appreciated. I'm going up to the boat tomorrow, and if I can't drain the system down completely, I'll go for the antifreeze solution. Albeit, it will need another trip up to the boat before the really cold weather sets in. The intake/weed filter is very accessible, so the does seem to be an easy option. Thanks for the tip on the toilet and shower drain pump system, I will do that as well. I have already drained down the domestic water system, filled the fuel tank with diesel, and pumped out the holding tank. Wintersing this boat, which we've only had since August, is a 'new game' for me, as our previous boat (a Viking 24), had an outboard, and the toilet system was a Thetford Cassette. Dave

My boat is now out of the water for the winter, and prior to it being lifted, I drained the engine side of the heat exchanger cooling system, and re-filled it with a 50% mix of antifreeze and de-ionised water. My intention is now to drain down the raw water side of the system, and leave it empty for the winter. However, looking at the manual for the engine (Yanmar 4JH3-HTE 100HP), it might not be possible to get at the raw water pump, for which the manual recommends loosening the four cover-plate screws, to let the water drain from within. The difficulty arises from the fact that the engine is quite a big' lump' in a relatively small space, and the raw water pump lays on the left hand side of the engine (viewed for the rear), and at the bottom of the of the engine. As you can see from the photo, there is virtually no space to get down that side of the engine with a spanner, and be able to see and undo the four cover-plate bolts. The other raw water drain points I think I can get to, but having to leave water in the pump, is a concern. I could try and stuff some lagging around the pump, but this really isn't a good option IMO. Another option would be to take the raw water intake hose off of the 'sea cock', put the end of the hose in a bucket of 50/50 anti-freeze and water mix, then run the engine up to suck it up into the system, and leave it there for the winter. What do you guys do? Dave

Thanks for you input guys, both interesting and helpful. The 'link' you posted Mark, does seem to support what my surveyor said, and that is that Aluminium based anodes are the best 'all rounders'. QUOTE: Navalloy® Aluminum Anodes The Only Anode That Works in All Types of Water The aluminum alloy used in Navalloy anodes is very different from normal aluminum. It includes about 5% zinc and a trace of Indium, which prevents the build up of an oxide layer. Aluminum anode alloy provides more protection and lasts longer than zinc. It will continue to work in freshwater and is safe for use in salt water. Aluminum is the only anode that is safe for all applications. Navalloy® has a higher protection voltage than zinc. This particularly important when protecting aluminum components, like an outboard motor, which is an "active" metal. My guess is that my boat was originally used quite frequently in salt water, as the fact that it has a 'fish finder' (in additional to a depth sounder), a hefty Danforth anchor, and is fitted with the 100HP engine option (for river use only, the Shetland 27 is usually fitted with the 54HP engine), we seem to support this theory. The anode on my boat is apparently Zinc, and was found to be quite furred over, as a result of being in fresh water. The boat is coming out of the water next week, for winter period, so plently of time to replace the existing anode. I'll also look into the Galvanic Isolator option too. My stern gear is a Bronze prop on a stainless steel shaft, and the rudder and its stock are also Bronze. The anode is attached to the end of the drive shaft. Dave

It seems that some current thinking is that Aluminium Anodes are a good compromise for use in Salt, Fresh, and Brackish Water, but then it is also said that there is no 'one suits all' solution, and the following table seems to support this. Zinc Alloy Anodes = Salt water only Not recommended for use in fresh water Aluminum Alloy Anodes = Salt or Brackish water Not recommended for use in fresh water Proven to last longer than zinc due to increased capacity Magnesium Alloy Anodes = Fresh water only Not recommended for use in salt or brackish water The only alloy proven to protect your boat in fresh water From this 'table' it would seem that if you are a 'pure salty', then its Zinc for you, while aluminium will work in both Salt and Brackish. At what point I wonder, do the Broads become Brackish? My guess would be Breydon Water, but just how far up the rivers, does the Brackish water extend? Theoreticallly, if you are equipped for seagoing, then you will have either Zinc or Aluminium anodes, but if you also spend time on the Broads with these types, then you don't have any effective Galvanic protection. In my case, being Broads based, I should use Magnesium anodes, but if I venture out into the 'Salt', which I could, these won't last very long at all. What type of anode do you use, and where does your boat spend most of its time? Dave

Nice one Rich Dave

It seem that the expected saving is in the order of £2 million over 10 years. This means that they would be around £200k per year in-pocket, so no need for any more above inflation toll increases then Dave

The 50D is a damn good camera, and that's a nice versatile set of lenses to go with it. I had the older 30D for 5 years, and it never failed to impress, albeit I have now moved up to the 7D. Dave

Laninate wouldn't be a practical answer, as it is a 'wet-room' duckboard plafform that I want to construct, to protect the plastic floor from shoes, but easily removeable for cleaning. The picture below shows what I'm want to make, albeit we have a sea-toilet in ours, not a Porta-Potti. The cockpit and cabin gangway floors, are already laid with real Teak. Dave

Thanks Strowager, I have noted that option too. I'm guessing that maybe Iroko or even Oak, might do the jop just as well? It is after all, only for a duckboard for the floor of the toilet/shower room, so as long as it doesn't mind getting wet, I guess it doesn't really need to be a 'posh' as Teak. Dave