GrantS

I think that they should leave the boats where they have grounded and then these wrecks will send the message LOUD AND CLEAR. Lol Just imagine how many there would be now if they had done this over the last 50 years or so. Might even fill in the gaps between the markers

Hi Paul, Thats exactly what you need & with only a 0.2v volt drop, excellent. To wire it in, you need to take the Alternator charging wire to the input post on the splitter, then take a lead from each output post of the splitter to your batteries. (There will be instructions on a sheet that come with it, so this should help with the install.) (Just remember to use cable that can handle the current when you install it) From what you said about the original diode on the alternator only handling 6 amps, - this split charge unit will be able to handle much more current than your alternator can. so i wouldn't worry about fitting cables that can handle more than 50 amps. I would suggest around 20 -25 amp cable would be more than enough for what you want for this install. I don't wish to complicate things for you here, but some installs will need a relay fitted (as did mine) The relay temporarily kicks in to supply 12v for the igmition circuit /exciter supply to the alternator. Once the engine is running, the relay drops out and the alternator starts charging. The relay is controlled by your ignition switch - (The point on the switch where you turn the ignition key to turn over the starter motor and let it spring back once the engine has started) Therefore, You turn the ignition key to pos 1 (ignition on) Then turn to pos 2 (turning engine over & relay is also turned on) Then let the switch return to pos 1 (ignition on, but now relay has switched off) You may not need this relay, but i thought i had better mention it just in case you do. Hope this Helps Grant

Hi paul, Hope the above was ok for you. Regarding splitting the charge to two batteries, you just need two diodes to do this. ASAP Supplies amongst other companies sell these in a nice fancy heatsink package. The diodes will drop 0.6v across each of them, so if your alternator is dishing out 14v, then 13.4v will arrive at your batteries. You will need a Diode Split Charge unit that has 3 connections (1 x Alternator i/p and 2 x O/P for the batteries) Have a look at the link to ASAP to get an idea of what you are looking for. They have a 120 amp unit on this page to charge 2 batteries (Way OTT on the current that you will ever need, but will give you an idea) http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine/dio ... -splitters

I do appologise about the 85AH bit, You stated 80AH, so i don't know why i added an extra 5 amps. Lol. That will teach me, adding to a thread after working nights..................

Hi Set Fair, From what you have written on your post on the YBW Forum, i assume that you only have one battery. Therfore you appear to be using a leisure battery to crank over an engine, albeit a small engine. Leisure batteries are not designed to have a very large amount of current drawn from them in one go, hence they do not have a CCA (cold crank amp) rating. They only have amp hour (AH) of which yours is 85. So your o/b engine, may end up shortening the life of your leisure battery. (this will depend on how much current your engine needs when cranking) Regading the 40w cool box which would be drawing just over 3 amps @ 12vdc on an 85 AH (assuming it still has a 85AH capacity after being used to crank an engine over) This, in (theory) would use up the battery's capacity in 25.7 hours. Then when the engine charged and run the cool box, the current that would be drawn through the diode / regulator on the alternator would high, as it would have the cool box pulling 3.3 amps and the battery would be drawing a high amount of current due to it being flat. The battery current draw will be a variable here, as it will depend on what state it is in. Regarding the regulator & diodes being rated at 20 amps (which was upgraded by yourself), then i don't see a problem with that part not handling the current, but don't forget that the original was only rate at 6 amps, so it does make me wonder how much current you could actually draw without burning out the windings. You could modify the coolbox and fit a thermostat like i have. But you will need to connect just the Peltier to the thermostat and leave the fan permantly running. Oh, and i would recommend using two batteries (one being a leisure battery for aux only and the other being a car batery that suits the CCA of your engine) You will then need to split the charge as well.

To be honest, i dont even read it myself. I just heard about these cameras, googled it, saw the Daily Mail link, though oooh, that will do and copied and pasted it. NICE

Sometimes i love Technology & Sometimes i hate it........... But as Del boy says..............You know it makes sense

Look what might be coming to a Highway near you in the Near Future....... http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/ ... tbelt.html

Hi, Welcome to the Forum

Love the pics wayne. Looks like you all had a fantastic adventure and a great time. I like the stone point piccies, reminds me of the days when we used to beach our boats and have a bbq on the sand there many times. All the best

Nice photos Mark, Bet you guys got a fantastic view from there. Nice one.

A Bit of Fun for you........Enjoy

My wife caught a glimpse of one of these last year, but never got a chance to feed one. But i manged to see two Otters at Brundall for the first time earlier in the week. We had moored up for a night at Broom Boats and had a bite to eat in the Yare, where we were chatting to some people who told us that there are Otters about on the river. Blow me, the next morning as we left Broom, there they were in front of me. This was the first time i have ever seen a wild Otter in its natural habitat. I never managed to get a photo though, as they dissapeared under the water within seconds and were gone. I do have some photo's of a friendly Cormorant that was wandering around the jetty's at WRC though. I even sat right next to it and it was also happy to bury its head in its back and go to sleep. As soon as i get around to sorting out our photo's i will post some extremely close photo's of it.

Thanks peeps

Hi Neil, Hope you both are well and thanks for the info Car is good thanks, comes off the road at the end of September though. Wroxham Bridge......... Went there last year (didn't attempt to go under though) Not too sure if we will fit to be honest. If we can, then everything has to come down including the Radar Arch, which is a bit of a pain. According to the clearance shown on the marker at the bridge, i have seen it at just over 7ft and we are approx 6.6 ft to the top of our front windows. But the bridge is not sqaure and we more or less are, so i really don't know. I think it would be a case of if we hit the tell tales, then back off basically.

Anywhere after Breydon Water basically

Thank you, and a phone No. cool Keep them coming please Need them tonight and tonight only.............

Sorry about the subject, but i wanted to get peoples attention with an answer tonight if possible. Can anyone tell me what Marina's, places etc are worth staying for a night or two on the northern part of the broads. I can then find the Tel No.s for booking on the web. Many thanks.

Some things are never what they seem.......... If you know what i mean Gav

Hi Cattleya, CMS Acoustic Solutions (see their website) Here is what i purchased Class O Foam 2 x 1.2 Metre Sheet 25mm thickness =£20.47 I ordered 2 sheets, = £40.94 Delivery - £10 Total = 50.94 This was purchased last year, so the price will a bit higher now. Give them a ring on - 01268 568762

Thanks Guys, Removing the blanks was the obvious one for me, but this is going to mean two visits to the boat and then not being able to take the boat out until i have the new fittings and have filled it back up with fluids. Or, i can bite the bullet and buy the Quicksilver hose tails at the Quicksilver price. Regarding the flow, i wasn't aware of that. Thats gonna have to be a suck it and see job. However, there are two ways of connecting the hoses. The Manual says there is a Standard and an Alternative connection method This might be something to do with the effectiveness of it. Anyway, thanks for your input

A shot in the dark here, but just in case there is a helpful marine engineer that has worked on these engines. Q - What are the size including the type of thread are the blanks at the supply / return points on this engine which you remove to fit hose tails points to connect the Calorifier.

Hi, I had too much noise coming from the engine bay from mine, mainly due to the original engine being petrol and now it has a Turbo Diesel. I purchased Class O foam from a company that specialise in sound proofing. I explained what i wanted to use it for and they recomended this stuff. Its totally fire retardant (tried to light it with a lighter and it definately don't burn) and is also high density ( which is what you need) I'm pretty sure they supply the marine industry anyway. I purchased two large 25mm thick sheets of it and have managed to cover the removable floor areas over the engine with two layers (50mm total) and the floor areas ajacent to that and have also soundproofed the cavity above / behind the engine. I still have a fair bit left over and i have to say, it has worked wonders. The noise level has reduced significantly (and all for approx £50 which included a £10 delivery charge.) If you are interested, i will dig the receipt out and can then tell you the company name and what size sheets i went for. (although, its bought by the metre, so you choose how much) Let me know......

We`ve often passed this little inlet which i think is on the first bend on the Waveney to the north of the top of Oulton dyke, and wondered if the water is deep enough to moor for a secluded overnight stop, anybody moored there before?. It`s on the eastern bank. Regarding that little cut. Haven't stayed overnight there, but have moored up for a couple of hours at fairly low water with the bathing platform level with the entrance and had a depth reading of approx 3ft. (Wouldn't recomend venturing in too far though) I kept the leg raised just in case and didn't touch the bottom. (Not that i was aware of anyway) So it really depends on the draught of the boat that you have and also, being a hire craft it will be a shaft drive, so no outdrive to lift up. (so watch your prop) Hope this helps

Hi Mark, The pump didn't do this last year, only started doing it recently. So if you have the same type of pump, then it shouldn't be pulsing like mine and also shouldn't need an accumulator tank as advertised by Jabsco. Over the winter, the entire system was drained & hoses detached from pump & water tank. The taps were also left open, so no chance of ice damage. (standard procedure that we carried out with the caravan over a 7 year period with no problems whatsoever) Don't forget that i haven't looked into the reason it is doing this yet, so a bit early yet to condem the pressure switch. We will see......... Hi Gavin, Thanks for the info......... If i find out later that it is the pressure switch at fault, i will be in touch with the company again and depending on their final answer will determine what action i will take.