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dnks34

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Posts posted by dnks34

  1. We do try and do the majority of our maintenance ourselves Alan but as with all boats the odd job will crop up from time to time that has to be done by the proffesionals. We have been quite lucky since 2011 in that respect other than antifoul twice yearly as we can do our own engine servicing, winterisation and whatever electric / plumbing jobs crop up. Its only really the underwater work and canopys / upholstery that we wouldnt do ourselves and we leave that to those in the know and with the equipment to do the task properly!

  2. Im not suggesting it isnt good value for money.

    It costs me 3-4k per year to have my 37ft on a good quality mooring and be maintained to a good standard.

    Your syndicate vessels will withstand a lot more use than our boat granted and being relative to mine much newer boats I still think the annual running costs seem quite high especially at the actually figures and not the 7k i came up with! Im not "dissing" your setup its just theres a big difference in annual costs between a multi owner vessel and one thats outright owned and I was really trying to understand why other than the obvious usage differences

  3. Robin the system i have got is just a simple relay which connects both banks together when the ignition is on allowing them both to be charged by the alternator, they are also connected individually to the shore power battery charger to recieve a charge, im led to believe a much simpler setup with minimal voltage drop and no electronics as such to go wrong!

  4. Can i just clarify if im correct in thinking that in this case the manual battery isolator switches did not isolate the batteries from this auto isolator unit as its fitted between the batteries and the alternator thus the only thing it isolates is the batteries from eachother when there is no alternator charge detected and not the actual appliances on the boat? I looked at fitting one of these when i bought my boat but was informed that the old fashioned split charge relay is actually far better anyway.

  5. You dont know how you will react to a situation untill you find yourself in it. Dont really see the point in telling robin where you think he went wrong, hes fine (i presume!) the boat is still in one piece what else matters

    • Like 5
  6. Johnathon im not sure I agree re the fuse, in a fault condition there could be more amps going through the unit than it was designed to take, would a fuse rated to the specification of the unit not be of benefit? I have an inverter in which the manufacturers instructions stated the 12v supply should be fused appropriately and the fuse was not included with the kit!! In this case is a fuse also going to be useless if a fault develops in the unit?!

  7. Wonder why the owners didnt protect the circuit with a fuse to start with? We had something similar with a split charge relay neutral feed shorting out onto the relay live, there were flames and a lot of smoke as the cable went up like det cord back to the engine block, guess what......same yard.

  8. Legionella is not such a problem on cold supplies as long as the cold water stays below 20 degrees C. Its more of an issue above 20 and below 60 degrees C. Its not impossible though

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