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LondonRascal
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Posts posted by LondonRascal
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Please don't anyone I hope see me as being rude in sharing this, but a lot of the time I will use this Forum, my videos and the like as a kind of 'notice board' if that makes sense. Sometimes, I will ask for help, or double check something by 'putting it out there' but other times I will simple share what has happened, and what is to happen down the line and I don't want it to be seen when people ask about that, question the direction I am going in or so on to appear foolish or arrogant in then not taking on board others opinions and experiences.
I have had messages from people asking why did I buy such a boat, a boat many people who have spent years traveling to various places by sea would love to own and now venture further with, would I then be intending to keep it inland on a river system? I also have had those question my logic in wanting to spend vast sums of money on things like updating the navigation electronics only to use them a handful of times - but the I guess the fact is, most people follow a reasoning and I am not quite following the same.
Let us just take this fuel system - the tanks, balancing etc - I don't claim to understand what is going on, but I know someone will. I contact the boatyard I want their guys to do the dirty work so to speak and I am fine paying for that, but to help I will take away the hard part of them dealing with third party tanker firms and sorting out stuff they usually do not encounter out so I did. But see reasoning would have me do nothing until the issue had been identified causing the problem, and then react to that in finding or funding a solution. In short, take the boat to the boatyard have boatyard look at it, the boatyard then tell me what is wrong, how much it might cost to put right and do I want to go ahead. Simple.
My way of dealing with it is speed and efficiency and to hell with cost. Flippant sounding maybe, but it gets things done. I sort the storage tank hire out, then buy a fuel transfer pump, a nozzle for it along with the connectors and clamps, and 10 metres of re-enforced hose to make it all work. Once that is sorted I then liaised with boatyard ad update them and agree I will be in touch come 3rd January. I get a worry free Christmas and can plan the next stages such as removing the 'entertainment centre' and feasibility of hanging a 40" TV from the deck head -it will all make sense down the road..
I have a Teak blind, I went to raise it and it broke - I posted this on my own Facebook page - I was all set to get a new custom blind manufactured and get the boatyard (who happen to be distributors and fitters) to have it done - but several people said 'woah hold on' it could be fixed with a part from another blind don't do anything yet. I have held fire, but I am itching to get it sorted as I don't like the aesthetic of a blind stick half up and half down lol.
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Peter sorry yeah, the thing is the drawing is so about face with the manifold shown as at a different location, the centre tank is not really even 'central' as in down the centre line of the boat, it is 90 US Gallon (I make that about 340 litres) some other Traders have had a far larger tank for extended cruising range, 340 litres won't get you many more miles.
To be honest, the issue I have is the fact the Yanmar engines are far more light weight than the CATs on other boats, and then I had this bloody big Crane and its sold support beam on the port side, and a 300kg+ Rib 'sort of' on the starboard side, but more central than anything - so that combined is a lot of weight up top - the moment you go using water, and fuel you reduce the wight you have down low and she then will act like a pendulum rolling from one side to the other, Traders are known known for this, but in my boat it will be far more extreme.
Of course the Rib and Crane were all added after build - the small centre tank I am sure is only there simply to even out things since it has the lighter engines, but we will find out how she is once underway . Other owners I have read stories form and spoken to avoid beam seas where possible because they or their wives do not like having to hold on tight and have plan their movements just to go to the galley when underway. So long as Independence bobs back up from a roll to port I am happy!
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Ricardo, you've raised here what has been asked elsewhere - fair point. So the best answer I can give you is I have always wanted a 'proper sea boat' - now even that raises a number of questions such as what is the difference between a sea boat and a 'proper' one but to me it comes with size and much like food, give me a large plate with a burger a large portion of chips and I will see more value in that than a fine cut of steak with some perfectly buttered baby potatoes and fine green beans.
So you see my initial research began with 'how big of a boat can I go' - it has to have a number of berths too as while 90% of the time I might be on it myself, those other times when you have guests and want to go places it is nice to have flexible accommodation. I soon found out when you move away from ex-hire craft berths on boats soon become harder to find and why I very much was drawn to the 1991 Fairline 50 to begin. It had a twin cabin, bunk beds, a double master and then a tiny twin cabin under the deck at the aft. 8 people for a boat of this type is really good, but it was 26 years old and while very well kept, was stepping back to the 90's the moment you saw inside. For me, that would need to go - but I also liked that idea to re-structure the interior.
However I then wondered about newer Fairline's, and the Squadron 55 appealed - you see where this is going, large, newer, faster, more expensive. I did not stop there and before long was eyeing up a 2004 Squadron 58! The Traders had also 'caught my eye' but always seemed a bit too 'old school' for me, until one evening in the summer I was in St. Katherine's Dock in London and low and behold right there before me was a Squadron 58 and Shiela and I looked and I talked about it and my love and wish to have one just went. It was too brash, and what on earth would I do with twin 750HP engines and how would this enormous boat at close on 60ft ever work if I was to have her berthed on the Broads.
No, I needed to re-evaluate go back to the drawing board - and so with that I took another look at the Traders.
I read up about them and anytime anyone would consider buying one (this on the YBW Forum) people would remind them of a certain chaps dealings when he commissioned one to be built and it all went terribly wrong, others spoke of their terrible roll and the fact that they were not a patch on a Flemming and neither a fast boat or a long distance passage maker - more show than real trawler yacht. When I began then to post and talk of these and boats generally, the welcome was frosty to say the least, but I liked that - it inspired me and drove me more to cut my own furrow and do things on my terms.
And so I got serious, making enquiries and spending hours online planning, reading, viewing over and over but at no point did I stop to think 'is this too big' or 'what will I do with it' - no, because that did not and still does not mean much to me. You see if I had a smaller boat, could I have a three seater settee on it, or a full electric galley with dishwasher? Could I have a crane and keep the rib off the swim platform up top? Moreover could I have any of these things in a boat for that sort of money...No I could not. But conversely do I need that crane and Rib and so on? no I do not - but it is nice to have, but that is not in a show off manner I just like the look of it all - it adds to the 'go anywhere' feel and look to the boat.
So it had to be a Trader and it had to be a Sunliner for the Signature could not hold the same weight up top, it also had to be no older than a 2000 year model because of a raft of improvements and changes made since 2000 to models.
And a long story short, I found this one. It already came with a lot of the things I was wanting - so much of this has been about removing as much compromise as one can from what a boat means. To me it is about a space to spend time, and this boat is fabulous. It feels cosy, the real wood interior might be a bit too traditional for some, but it is or me timeless and gives it a real sense of being little ship. But it is the other things like an enormous bed in a large cabin with so much room to move, so much headroom, it makes it again feel less like a boat more home like almost. And why I am spending more time on sorting that out internally than cosmetically outside, so when guests come on board they are comfortable and looked after.
So a big reason why it had to be so big and why the name I chose, and why the list of items I plan to do on her all comes down to the fact I have wanted to do this all my life, and this is the first time I have been 'let free' and got something I control completely that I chose originally, negotiated on, bought and will make what I will of it without anyone saying anything to me or having any say in it whatsoever. Never before have I done anything like this - there has always been others help, guidance, control, even down to asking someone what they think about this or that. This time I did it alone and also why words like: "Why do you want to do that Robin?" or "You see what you want to do is..." are words to be left unspoken on board.
Having that drive and mindset and then sharing it as you head down the path is unusual. It is not usual that a guy my age would own a boat like a Trader, that anyone would buy any boat of such value and type in the manner in which I did - no survey, no sea trial and the first time I heard the engines fire into life was after I had completed on the purchase. It is risky, but it is so far paying off - so when it comes to value well I see value in it others may not, but a lot of this will be about changing perceptions. It just something quite interesting that anyone I talk to I must first explain it is just me, yes I did just buy this boat for me, and yes I do want this doing like that - from the chap who came down to do the fuel tanks to the boatyard doing the works in January - I don't think they've met a 'Rascal' before so I enjoy bringing my enthusiasm and energy to things.
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Robin, looking at page 25 of the user manual,at the fuel system diagram there seems to be only one valve for the balance pipe into the tank, teed into the balance pipe - the other feeds to the manifold, your generator looks to feed and return to the same tank as one engine, of course thats just what the manual says.
if you find its different, send me a sketch of how it is and I will do you a new drawing, its just odd that the feed out and return in your video dont appear to have valves - while all the drawings show valves.
The Generator can be fed from the the Port tank - that is closed off currently in a sort of 'T' connector (next to port tank balance valve) so it therefore is fed elsewhere - the diagram 'at build' is not what you now see 'on the ground' sadly. I am not sure if this was changed during the build or since - but the placement of items does not match up with the plan as above. However, note the valves for the balance pipe are shown as being in the 'on' position in the fuel system plan.
QuoteHaving been in the marine industry for the last 50 odd years, it sounds very much like you have bought a large drain on your finances.
Well yes and no - it is about how you want to do things really. You've got the bare essentials - it is a boat that floats, has no leaks in the hull therefore if everything else works a lot of people would be happy with that state of affairs.
Then you branch off of that into correcting issues - clearly the last owner who owned her for 12 years seems to have spent his money on more cosmetic things like a Crane and a Williams Rib and a Satellite TV and phone system to name a few, however he also spent on the oily parts too.
I went into this eyes wide open, and frankly think I have got a bargain - compared to spending another £180,000 on a Fariline Squadron 58 which had been on the table at one point - who is to say that would not have had issues here and there? Also saving £32,500 on the purchase price made this Trader the cheapest for year by miles and has given me lots of room financially.
As you can imagine just having the boat out the water and anti-fouled for a boat of this size and weight is not a cheap thing, let alone basic things like needing 9 anodes for each engine and a new impeller costing about £90.00 - I am looking at about £1,000 per engine when you factor in all the parts, the oil and coolant for service - especially 'down there' where they charge top dollar.
My overall plan is to bring her from what many consider to be a fine example of this model, to being the best. The engine room is a mess (for me) despite people commenting on how clean and tidy it is it can be cleaned and brought up more so the current issues do not bother me what does is time and that ticks on all the time but once she is up in Norfolk and time is no longer so pressing (and that is handy as Norfolk operates on a different time zone to other parts of the Country) I can get stuck in to cosmetic updates and electronic goodness. This is really the very tip of the iceberg.
QuoteThe V40’s not been in production long, although it’s mainly a re styled V39! I spotted the China Fleet pub in the background, food was never very good but nice spot for a beer or 2 watching the marina etc.
I prefer the Barbican 'older area' for the pubs and food but have wandered over to the China House - its on the way to the Chandlers. However the Princess just is not my cup of tea, to much white gel coat everywhere and that entire space even with an enclosure is really 'outside' so on a chilly day it just not a space you would want to use so you'd be down below all the time - still people buy them,
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The concluding part of 'Update 3' is below, where I show how an iPad can be an aid to navigation, win the war on the local Seagulls and if you make towards the end you we go exploring in the engine room and I try to shed some more light on the fuel pipes, centre tank and valves. Riveting stuff!
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I am confused as to why you have been told to isolate this tank. There is no way that fuel could siphon from a lower-level to a higher level, so a list cannot develop “by itself”.
Indeed! This is because I think I have been told some things that are a little bit far from the truth - however over on YBW a guy I have struck up a good realtionship with in private messages came up with this clever way to see if the balance pipes are blocked:
"Lets say you had all of the four valves closed and you had both Yanmar's up and running, for instance when you had done your mini Jaunary trip and were tied up and settled at MBBH. The 5 Degree cold diesel in the tanks will have been warmed appreciably by the constant flow of return fuel back into the outer tanks.
Starting on one side, from shut, could you perhaps open the valves sequentially one at a time and with your infra-red thermometer follow the fuel temperatures move or not move along the balance piped?
As you opened each valve. So lets say Port tank fuel was now warmed up to say 20C, and the fuel in balance pipe was unheated and still at 5C. Then open the valve and monitor, does the warm fuel follow to the other side of the valve or does it just stay cold?
If you established for instance by doing the two outside ones first, that the valves on both main tanks were working well So after running, it was hot on the tank side and cold on the other side of the valves with them still shut, then warm when opened up. If the fault was thereafter traced to be at one of the two on the centre only that was not opening. You could then shut off the two mains and you would only be looking at a fairly modest draining of the centre tank only scenario, which would presumably save you tons of cash?
Guess a risk is nasty bad fuel in that centre one contaminating the main tanks, but if you were already there and it was all going to come out thereafter anyway. After 5 minutes of basic testing, you might have a fair idea if the valves were good or bad and potentially what problem you were looking at."So you can see this is causing a bunch of people to really get their mind into things - personally speaking, since I have now bought and had dispatched the hose pipe, fuel transfer pump and associated other items I am just going to go along the 'take as much fuel out as possible' route and inspect. You will see in the next video there is corrosion on the centre tank outlet (port) and valve this is I am sure because of some electrical wires that come very close to this area and have DC current that is used for the electronic throttle controls - any idea then how you can shield such cables so the pixies don't get out and introduce Cathodic, or Galvanic corrosion to my prescious metals?
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5 hours ago, Brundall1037 said:
On your radio if it is the same as mine you can hook your mobile up through the Bluetooth and answer calls on the radio. Good for if you want to keep your phone dry.
Well not sure about that, get confused between using the VHF for urm radio traffic and ordering a Pizza. I'll stick to waterproof smartphones.
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This video shows the list developed with 60-100 litres more fuel in the port tank than starboard. She now has full starboard tank, and a 3/4 full port tank but is level - the crane (port side) clearly also weights a good amount and so with a full port tank I am sure we will see a list begin once more, extra ballast may therefore be needed on her starboard side - yet to be seen.
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Mark you are not the first to talk of the worry of having all tanks connected - but my basis is that if the fuel is bad in one why, if it had been filled at the same time and kept in the same manner would the other tank be ok?
But more over the boat has a very complex fuel management manifold - from here you can select which tank what uses and to what tank fuel is returned - currently port engine takes from port tank and returns to it (vice versa for starboard engine and tank) and that is fine for shorter periods of use, but since each engine will always consume slightly different amounts of fuel each tank will begin to become unbalanced (one fuller than the other) and poor old centre tank won't have anything going on just sat there as dead weight.
At build the system is shown to take from all and return to all tanks through a continuous feed and return line (that then runs to the fuel supply management manifold) - using this would mean if you had bad fuel or a leak in one tank you can switch over on the fly to draw and return from another tank but leaving it like that just gets you into the situation I am now in.
For some reason, at some time one of the Racor fuel filters was moved way over to the port side and in a very hard to get to place - I am thinking of using the opportunity when all this fuel work is undertaken to replace these with duel filters (you can even get them an electronic warning system to alert you to either low pressure - possible blocked filter element) or water in the fuel - you then go into the engine room, move a valve over to draw from the standby filter without any down time - now isolated you can change the dirty filter and drain any water from the bowl, then switch over to your primary filter. This is where this years boat show will come in very handy!
P.S Traders have notoriously poor hulls for stability, in short they like to roll - and considering her beam and length me walking to one side and back to the other will cause a noticeable movement happen, move back and froth and I can get quite an oscillation going which takes some seconds to calm down once yous top moving.
it took about 60-100 litres of fuel to cause the list (see video below) - small, but noticeable none the less. This is why so many Trader owners have had stabliser systems fitted and why later build 2004+ models had them fitted at build (especially to the 575 and above models) - while this would do nothing to stop the boat listing in port, it would make a big difference in a beam on or quartering sea. I also have a 300KG RIb and a (who the hell know but a lot) KG crane up top to make things that bit more fun.
These sort of set up is pretty 'high end' and not what the typical leisure boat will have fitted but then this vessel is not the typical leisure boat really and I have to think ahead and long term to keeping in in this sort of form and not cutting corners as most people who would buy this class of boat do so for extended passage making and expect things to be a certain standard.
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I am not going for a replacement Washer Dryer - the reason is Marina's have these facilities and I have been getting on just fine washing all sorts (including the bath mats and cushion covers) in the one at Plymouth - I recon could wash ropes in there too in the late night when no body is about despite the sign saying not to..
The current one works - ok so it floods when you go to use it initially, but I recon that is an easy fix - if it did go tits up then I also think easier to deal with a new one being put in when in Norfolk than on a moving floating pontoon with less access in Plymouth.
Now...For the real update:
In this video you will see the work that Carl from CP Fuel Polishing did and in so doing we found out the bad news - I cannot balance my port and starboard fuel tanks. There is more about this coming in part two about this where you will see the actual set up in the engine room.
Basically. there are three tanks and a 1" 1/2 pipe that connects them to each other. This in turn has four valves along its length and either the pipe is blocked, or the valves are not working for when Carl was extracting fuel from the starboard tank and pumping it back in filtered to the port tank - the port tank was just filling up and the starboard was just emptying and this in turned caused a list to port. This was exactly what I had been told the previous owner experienced - All Boat Services solution tot his was t isolate the centre tank and 'balance' the other two tanks. Of course this works as a short term solution and if you only cruise short distances, but go further and use more fuel and there is still no way for the tank levels to equalize and also means you'd be filling one tank then having to move the boat and fill the rest on the other side to keep things in trim.
I have therefore been in touch with Mount Batten Boathouse (who were to service the generator and provide spares for the engines) but now I have to get the boat to them in January and I am hiring a 2,000 litre fuel tank to be delivered to the boatyard and then I am buying a large fuel transfer pump and we will remove as much fuel as possible into the tank on the quay, then they will set to inspecting valves, pipes and so on before we re-fill the boat tanks.
This must be done before our passage in February. A local tanker firm had agreed to buy the fuel off me at 40p per litre but this did not include the cost of taking it out the tanks and travel to the boatyard, they also would only do it if the boat was out the water on the hard which is why working with the yard we are going to be doing it ourselves. At the end of the day I want the boat back to how should be and would have been when left the factory that all three tanks can be drawn from, and all three tanks are connected so will always find their equilibrium so far as how much is in each.
In the next update you will see how I have gone on an all out war on the local sea gull population...-
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Personally speaking I would go with a cheap and cheerful domestic fridge - there so much cheaper than marine versions (about £100) to £120) and can be considered 'disposable' when they eventually kick the bucket. All the time you are in the marina power to it is not a problem, however once you depart on your cruise you would need to have an Inverter to power it.
You could get a new battery (or 2) and an Inverter and your domestic fridge and still not have spent as much money on a Waeco 12v marine fridge. The only thing you would need to consider is that you would be using 36Amps every 24hrs - may be more and at that sort of rate, coupled with say heating use, lighting you must run your engine ever day to replenish the power from your batteries.
I wrote a bit piece about a freezer set up but on 24v DC with an Invert a couple years ago, below is the findings to give you some food for thought:
This is only my view, but I seriously consider 12v power use on a boat as no longer required. I would much prefer to see all DC power use being run at 24v because this reduces your amperage needs, and in many cases reduces the gauge of wire needed. I know sometimes what you have (in your case the bow and stern thrusters) will be 12v and so that would not be much helped by the rest of the boat being on a 24v system. But when you look at everything from electric toilets, bilge pumps, lighting, engine gauges etc they all come in 24v versions these days and often at no more cost than their 12v cousins.
Disclaimer: My Maths is not that great so anyone wishing to correct all this please do so...
Now back to Freezers (or Fridges) if you bought a domestic 240v model you would need to run it off an Inverter, and that should be and a Pure Sign Wave one too. I’ll say for the sake of this example you’ve stuck with 12v so what you need to do is find out the wattage the unit consumes (I’ve seen a compact one on Amazon that uses 0.45Amps @ 240v). Link: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013R42QD4
This means your running wattage would be 108w but the compressor motor also needs a jolt of about three times its running wattage to start up, usually provided by a hefty Capacitor, this surge is needed for only a fraction of a second but the inverter needs the beans to provide this so just to start the freezer you would want to factor in say 400w which would reduce once running. A nicer 2,000w pure sign wave inverter therefore would be handy. Even nicer if it incorporated a 70Amp battery charger – so here is the beast – and it is coming in at 22KG. Link: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00PYK573G (You will see these branded as Sterling combi Inverters for £995.00, no kidding!)
Now, you need to know how much DC battery capacity you’ll need to have to run the Freezer. I would personally have dedicated batteries for this task so in the worse case you lose some food not a bunch of other more vital equipment if the batteries are drained.
So, let’s convert the Freezers AC running Watts to DC Amps. The starting wattage doesn’t last long enough for me to worry about, but we know our AC wattage is 108w because it uses .45Amps at 240v. Divide this by 12 (our DC volts) and multiple the answer by 1.1. So 108/12x1.1= 9.9 - you would therefore need as good as makes no difference 10Amps DC to run the Freezer. I understand that you should multiply by 1.1 to take into account the loss an Inverter (or inefficacy) it causes thus actually would require slightly more DC Amps than a ‘pure calculation’ of Watts/Volts = Amps
Now the above is only valid if the Freezer ran for an hour continuously, and in such time drew 10 Amps – so with this in mind this would equate to 10Ah (Amp Hours). Now this if it were to run for 24 hours that would use rather a lot of amps - to break it down to a nice round figure I will say that the Freezer might run for 20 hours continuously (highly unlikely) which would equate to 456Ah!
Freezers do not run consciously for 20 hours though (if your does you have an issues lol) – some say when calculating power with regard to Fridges and Freezers to work at a 50% run time per 24 hour period. I’ll go along with this for now but I am not so sure this is true. So, our 456Ah would reduce down to a more ‘manageable’ 228Ah being taken from the battery bank.
This is still not making me happy; because the above is like saying that a Freezer will run (on and off) but effectively, none the less still be running for 10 hours in every 24 hours. I just don’t believe a compact A+ rated appliance would run for 10 hours every 24 hours.
So let’s dig deeper into the specifications of the Freezer and see if this helps matters. I find its Kilowatt Hour use per 24 hours is 0.4 (Kwh/24H): 0.4) or in ‘easy speak’ that is 400 Watts. This is reference to a 240v supply, but it gives a good idea that in a 24 hour period it would consume 400w if plugged in at home.
With this information we can now find out just how many Amps the Freezer is actually likely to sap out of your batteries in a 24 hour period and if my math is right, that means 36Amps. (400/12x1.1=36)
On the face of matters that appears you could just use a single 110ah Battery and with careful thermostat control run the Freezer off this. Personally, I would opt for two to split the load over them and take into account the 88 – 90% efficiency an Inverter can provide and that you cannot comfortable discharge more than 50% out of a lead acid battery. Your usable capacity with just a single battery is 55Ah (110ah with two).
As most boaters these days wanting higher wattage Inverters (and often chargers too) these are now a given to be on board the modern boat. Why then does the modern boater still need to pay hundreds of pounds for a 12v version of a Fridge or Freezer when you can use cheaper, easily replaceable domestic varieties.
So, it goes to show however, if you had a 24v system, with an Inverter that took 24v in and gave 240v out your amperage need would not be 36Amps each day for the Freezer to run but come down to something like 18Amps which is why I like more volts at DC and keeping the Amps down
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On Independence:
1. Small amount of water.
2. Shaft seal allowing small amount of water to drip (yet to see how much especially when underway)
3. No. All domestic water is routed to 'sea chests' which have their own dedicated bilge pump to pump the contents overboard (float switch)
4. 3 pumps + manual hand pump
5. They are run off the main domestic batteries.
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Russell having met him, is a decent chap and it is nice to see him doing his own things and allowing his real character to come over in the videos and be original. While I would like to do more broads videos, it is a little tricky now I have a large sea boat but you never know what may happen in the future.
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I can recommend the Huawei P10Plus - O2 Shop Link
Video review http://www.trustedreviews.com/reviews/huawei-p10-plus
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So, time for another update:
In this shorter video, I get on with the final cabin to be cleaned - and I mean all out, full inspection and every surface cleaned down and this time it is the twin cabin on the starboard side. Upon lifting a panel under the bunk I found something odd - possible water ingress from the port light but running down the inside of the hull and not touching the wood that surrounds the port light - it was not wet, and actually appeared to look like a muddy deposit over a long period of time where water had come in with sentiment dried and the black sediment then was left over. I duly cleaned all this away and will keep an eye over time what happens here, since I have a leak in one of the galley port lights that has rotted the wood!I now need to find out where I can get some faced ply that might not match exactly but at least is of the same colour/finish as what is up currently - I am contemplating doing a temporary fix whereby we stop the leak and attend to the soft wood just to seal it and put a stop to its spread while then working on a permanent cosmetic solution down the line.I also thought I would give the washer dryer a go -it worked, for a few minutes before water began to gush out the detergent drawer on the front. I duly stopped the machine, cleared up the resultant water from the galley and tried again - worked and then once again flooded out. It did not do this on rinse cycles mind you only on initial fill (and no the drum was not full and overfilling). It may be a partially blocked pipe leading to the drum, but since its performance was less than great I may just be getting a newer machine the fun will be removing the old and getting a new in, as it can only fit through he port side sliding door by the helm.
Next up was the Dishwasher. This was in a terrible state inside so thought why not first put it through a cycle - thing was I did not check the filter and as the machine did it's thing I had no idea that no water was being drained at the end of the cycles, just filling up the interior - more water to clean up, messy, yucky, greasy water at that. However after much time it was not only gleaming but the stiff to open runners on the drawer were smooth running once more and it is a lovely addition to have on board and made short work of the mountain of glassware I found!-
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Ricardo: I can say that the engines were fully serviced in August, and belts changed. So I am not needing to worry about this - upon checking the oil in the engines it is still golden showing how little run time the engines have had since service. .However, I will need some spare parts you're right but finding them is proving frustrating - The main engines are Yanmar 6CXM-GTE 2 but the parts for generator which is branded Cummins Onan but has a Kubota engine are worse since the Parts.Cummins website does not list them with my serial number!
So I went by model number (I forgot this as I left the service manual I have on the boat) which is great to tell you what to do and when but does no give a single part number and it does not show up on the usual marine parts websites since it is not usually used as a boat propulsion engine but a plant engine.
Previously the boat was 'officially winterized' in so far as belts off, impellers removed, raw water side filled with anti-freeze and so on and so forth - I am not going to be doing this because the time between now and leaving I don't think is too long and it may even have a run out in January so I am just keeping the engine room heated (and the interior too) hence my monthly electric bills are running on the high side . As you will learn in the next update video I have fixed the dish washer and went mad using that and got the washer dryer going too (but it floods the galley when it fills with water) and the dryer function has a lot to be desired so gave up and spent £15 in the Marina's laundry room to wash the towels.
Oh and yep the pipe for the water tank is a level indicator - I have been in touch with a fellow Trader owner who advised on this, but also gave me some not so welcome news that his draft is about 5ft. He does play it a little safe, but I would say mine is going to be between 4ft 8" and 5" depending on how much water and fuel is onboard this won'#t be an issue on the Yare but I I would not be surprised if on a low tide in the Marina in Brundall she will be in the mud.
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Airbnb is simply a company which connects hosts to guests, so if a host rents out a room and has in that room a secret camera that is down a weird host who needs to be kicked off of Airbnb's community and also why makes sense to get to know the hosts online through Airbnb before you book and arrive to see how they are to deal with and what reviews they have.
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Sooooo been a while but finally got round to getting a long awaited video (from November) up and running, but another is fast ont he way from this weekend too..
The keyring - I tested it, it sinks so useless but I am keeping it and will get something that floats in due course. Anyway, without further ado here is the video update:
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Thanks for the replies about the electricity and I have some news. The electric is charged at 16.6p per unit - each post has a meter and the meter reading was taken from the period I took ownership of the boat. I will check on Friday evening when I get to the boat if this meter reading is the same as per invoice, and also that my plug has a lock on it so somebody else cannot sneak some of my power.
In all honestly though I think I have spent 3 long weekends (lost count now) on the boat, and in this time I have had the water heater going, an electric towel rail and a 1,750w fan heater in the saloon and a convector heater in the aft cabin on low (750w). Because I have been on board a lot of the time, both of these have been used quite a bit - couple in the tube heater left on a timer in engine bay (10pm to 8am) and two other tube heaters one in forward cabin one in after cabin on 24hrs I'd say the bill sounds about right.
This time I have some thermostatic sockets to use - the tube heaters were left on as we did have some cold evenings and a couple of below freezing nights so I;'d rather spend the money and have peace of mind.
In other news - I have secured a lovely mooring on the Broads, not where I originally planned but I will now be in Brundall. Side on, 60ftlong with my own bit of lawn by the boat, perfect.
But the most important news is my new key ring has arrived! Gone is the large Cork ball so many boaters have, and hello Blue Fender! How appropriate lol!!
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I have a meter at the post, they charge a supply charge and then a per unit charge is (need to contact them as to what this is) but have used 277 units. This for initial use of the air-con system to heat, then moved over to a panel heater in aft cabin and ceramic an heater in saloon, also the battery charger is running constantly to supply DC power to the boat bypassing the batteries once they are fully charged (so am told) there is then the rib-charger running, water heater and towel rails. So it all adds up, but most of this is only when I have been there which is not a lot of the time..
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Just had my first electricity bill from the Marina - £58.75. This is for use from 10th November to 30th November.
Seems they know a thing or two about charges down there, and may explain why so many boats I have seen have their diesel heating running when on their berth while I have to use electric.
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Nice to hear, this is something else to look forward to with the new boat in time - though the pub was bloody dear if I remember rightly.
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Thanks for the headsup on MST :) (what would you do without this Forum).
I will try and get some footage over Christmas, if she lets me lol and yes there will defo be video of our cruise to Norfolk :)
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Independence - Updates | Maintenance & Care
in General Discussion
Posted
Well, it has been a while - I have been spoiling myself with 11 nights on Broad Ambition - some with Shiela and I and then with my Mum and Simon - her husband. However, while away a call came in from the boatyard down in Plymouth they want to get a look on the boat before she is taken to their yard, they are also trying to figure ways out of sorting issues without putting fuel into a tank on the hard and instead do it on the boat.
So back to London I go, 24hrs rest and then a train to Plymouth and here I am on board. She has faired well after the storms - I was told 40ft waves off the coast here, the Marina also emailed owners to come down and check their boats. So what was the damage to Independence? Loose screen cover, sea gull scare tape missing and that about it.
I have done a video of things and will update over the weekend, but having read through the replies to my previous posts it really is hard to explain to others about this boat, why I did it, what will happen and so on - she won't get out and about too much on the Broads she is very large after all, but then like over Christmas that is what Broad Ambition is for - the practical go anywhere Broads cruiser so I guess I have all bases covered one way or another..