mjt

Vaughan, thanks for the suggestion. I'll give them a call. Dave, I think you're confusing the filter with the cooler. The filter is bolted direct to the crankcase via what is described as a 'transfer fitting' that incorporates unions for the flexible pipes to the cooler. The cooler is secured with jubilee clips onto a bracket bolted to the crankcase.

Hi Dave, Thanks. I realise that ASAP offer the oil filter cartridge for the T154 but they don't actually show a manufacturers part number for it. I was hoping to find an equivalent from one of the mainstream manufacturers like the ones I mentioned above. I guess if I were to order a filter from ASAP that might have the information on its packaging but I haven't yet decided to do so. I was also wondering if it would be possible to obtain a kit to convert to a spin-on filter but internet searches haven't turned up anything suitable for this particular engine.

Sorry, I should have also mentioned the engine is a T154 and I'm actually looking for equivalent part numbers for the likes of Wix, Fram etc.

Does anyone know the part numbers for the oil filters on a 2.52 Thornycroft diesel and TMP Type 12000 Mk4 gearbox? The Thornycroft is a replaceable element and the TMP a spin-on type.

Thanks Eric. I won't get to use her before the spring as I'm arranging to have her transported direct to a hardstanding at my marina for the winter. All I've had so far is a short river trial and I was very pleased with that. I'll probably get one more trip to get her pumped out before the lift then that's it for a few months. There are one or two jobs need doing while she's out but nothing major. In the year since we sold our old boat I haven't seen one anywhere near as tidy as this. The wife & I'll be champing at the bit over the winter to get some quality time aboard next season.

Hi Eric, I got what I wanted, a Seamaster 8-metre. Just updated my profile pic.

Boat now found. Thanks to all for your contributions.

We've actually been up to Newark and viewed that one. It needs more TLC than we're prepared to give it. Our last boat was very run down, and hence cheap, and I spent 8 seasons getting it back to a reasonable state but I'm now of an age where I don't want another 'project boat'. That one also has twin engines. I have, in the past, quite fancied a twin for the extra 'insurance' but practicality dictates a single. In that 8 metre the twin engine layout makes for very poor accessibility for servicing. That wouldn't necessarily be a problem if I could afford to pay someone to do it, on top of double the cost of oil, filters and the higher fuel consumption, but I have to cut the coat according to the cloth. Incidentally accessibility for servicing is a major reason for rejecting the Ocean 30 which could otherwise suit us quite well. I obviously want a diesel both from the safety and fuel availability standpoints but the one engine I'm not so keen on is the Perkins 4.107. Our last boat had a 4.108 and that was very clattery but otherwise pretty bombproof and I could live with one of those with enough soundproofing.

Hi LadyPatricia, we've looked at a number of 813's and find the bow bunks a bit small for me (6'2") and quite narrow. We previously owned a Seamaster 23 and found it too cramped for long cruises and the 813 doesn't seem that much better although a bit roomier in the cockpit. The 8-metre has a 10' beam that gives quite generous bow bunks and the rear cabin layout gives plenty of room to stretch one's legs and move around without bumping into one another. It also has very generous storage so that model is our top favourite and we're prepared to wait to find the right one.

Hi Iain, we have been in contact with Jon recently as they have one in at the moment but their advert seems to suggest it has a painted hull and/or superstructure and we're looking for original gelcoat. We asked him for more details about this but he hasn't got back to us. It's a bit of a trek from where we live so we'd like to be sure it has a chance of ticking most of the boxes.

If anyone hears of a Seamaster 8-metre coming on to the market I'd be most grateful to hear about it. Cheers.

I must point out that if connected in series you do still effectively double the capacity because, as Robin pointed out, with double the voltage you're halving the current consumption.

The adhesive lined sleeving is best for keeping water out.

Several years ago we had a similar-sounding problem. The Perkins was very reluctant to start, it always needed the Thermostart and it kept hammering the battery. It eventually turned out the starter bearings were seizing. After having the starter reconditioned the difference was amazing. I hardly ever need the Thermostart now.

I'm not worried, the boat's been running for the last six years without it. I'm just curious so thought I'd ask the large body of experienced boaters in case anyone recognised it.

Hi Alan, the bore of the pin is about 6mm which I'd think is far too small for that. I found it under the front of the engine together with what appeared to be a couple of pieces of shredded fan belt so I wondered if it might have been part of the alternator mounting but I took the alternator off a few years back to renew the brushes and didn't notice anything obviously missing. Everything is running fine at the moment, touch wood.

Whilst I was sucking up the dregs from the engine bilge (the old Perkins leaks a bit of oil) I fished out this item. I wonder if anybody has any idea what it is (other than a large roll pin with a washer jammed onto it) and where it might have come from. It's almost certainly been down there since before we bought the boat 6 years ago. It's length is 65mm.

I would definitely avoid sandpaper. Repeated use will eventually go through the paint coating. As Andy says the best way is a strong acid descaler.

A word of caution : any charging system that is to be left unattended should be current-limited. If a battery develops a fault, such as a shorted cell, that drops it's terminal voltage this could cause a high current to be drawn from a normal constant-voltage charger with the danger of fire and/or explosion. This has been known to happen.

What makes you think we don't?

Ditto! Arthritic hips and back. I ricked my back again last week just sitting putting my socks on . That scuppered my plans to use this nice dry settled period to get the boat ready for launch.

Yes, if it's a multi-core cable I can see that wouldn't really be practical. As a matter of interest one method I've used to ensure correct reassembly, provided an original cable is being sacrificed or has enough spare length, is simply to cut it off leaving the original connections intact. Then you just prepare the new cable and replace them one at a time. I'm not suggesting that would be appropriate in this case though.

If all else fails could you not use the existing electrical line as a pull-through to install a replacement together with the extra line and another pull-through?

Hi Martin, I take your point. I was simply observing that using 4mm radial at 110V would really be roughly equivalent to using 2.5mm at 230V radial. I didn't realise the USA used 240V for high-wattage wired-in equipment. Incidentally I've always understood that their 110V supply is centre-tapped at the substation thus giving 55V between each conductor and earth, this being much safer in the event of a shock.

Since the USA is 110V the current would be about double for a given wattage so they'd need heavier cable anyway.