A winter's tale.

[ExMemberBobdog]

Monday 8th December, a crisp, cold winter morning.  

The sun was low in the sky, giving a buttery coloured glow to the low clouds, while up high the canopy was pale blue as I turned out of Womack and down the Thurne.  Features on the bankside - Thurne Mill and St Benet's Level Mill - were sharply defined by the kind of light that I've seen nowhere else but Norfolk in winter.  As the diesel engine gently throbbed, because I was in no rush, I opened my flask of tea and sipped contentedly.
 

Not another vessel moving.  Those moored around the Thurne Dyke area looked lonely, abandoned, but will no doubt come to life again in the spring and summer.  For the moment the only things alive were me and the birds.  Marsh Harriers soared and swooped, a kestrel hovered, then dropped like a stone, and a solitary harnser stood gazing across the river.

 

A cold breeze ripped up a chop as I turned up the Bure at Thurne mouth, a few more engine revs needed, and I turned the heater on.  The reeds along both sides of the river bank glowed golden in the sun, looking like fields of ripe wheat in late summer, and swayed and whispered in the breeze.  An otter!  There, swimming along the waters edge, and he dived and was gone.  Another!  There, on the bank, a fish clutched between his paws as he chewed happily.

Before long the gatehouse at St Benet's came into view.  The combination of high water levels and the peculiar light somehow brought it closer to the water's edge.  It was so sharply defined I felt I could have almost reached out and touched it.  Not a single vessel at the moorings, so rare.  Water lapped gently, barely an inch below the capping at one point.

 

Turning into the Ant my journey continued, round the twists and turns, and the boats and buildings at Ludham Bridge came into view.  A wave from one of the workers at Ludham Bridge boatyard as he prepared to crane a small cruiser out.  Passing under the bridge I glanced across the gardens behind the Ludham Bridge Cafe and spotted an old chap sweeping up leaves.  Soon I was leaving the deserted moorings behind and was again alone with the soaring raptors.  More tea, and unwrap the cake!

 

At How Hill a moored and occupied motor cruiser - a 'liveaboard' I think - and a friendly smile and wave from the lady on board, soon slipped behind again.  More cheery waves at the far end of the moorings, from a BA works team going about their chores.  Onwards upriver, again alone, peaceful and pure.
 

Too soon I was passing through Irstead.  A few signs of life around the houses, someone hanging out washing, someone tidying a garden, all too busy to look towards the river.  Emerging onto Barton Broad a stronger wind greeted me, and once again I throttled up.  Staying in the channel I continued north.  Strange how the so familiar broad (because this is where I do most of my sailing) looked so different with the Nancy Oldfield and Punt Club pontoons taken away for their winter refits.  Two fisherman in a small dinghy hunch backed against the cold.  I risked a wave but none was returned, grim faces stared at the water's surface.  Are they really enjoying that I wondered?  Onwards across the Broad, and turned towards Barton Turf, another fishing boat, this time moored in the lee of the reeds, and this time some smiles and waves.

Slowly approached the mooring and came to a halt.  Womack Water to Barton Turf, and in all that journey not a single other moving vessel did I see.  Try ever saying that, those who only come here in August.     

[Gracie]

Wow, a beautiful post, the images in my mind as I read were so vivid I was almost there with you, thanks for sharing 

 

Grace

[fishtone]

What a lovely trip,made me wish I had not covered boat for winter.Must take the dog for a walk along the river this afternoon after reading that.

[ExMemberBobdog]

I enjoy the hustle and bustle of the Broads in summer - seeing others having fun, laughing and joking, helping out from time to time and sharing tales and ales.  But there is something truly magical about being on the water alone on a day like yesterday, a feeling, almost, that this space belongs to you and the wildlife and somehow the rest of the world doesn't exist.

[deebee29]

What a great review. This is the sort of trip I would love.

There's something special about the light in the wintertime and the peaceful solitude of being afloat at this time of year is something I can only dream of.

I love to go walking in the countryside in wintertime which I am fortunate to live quite near to.

Thanks for sharing

David

[loribear]

 what a lovely tale, it's making me wish that i was there, even though it's chilly.  lori