Topside cleaning, hull painting and anti foul.

[Paul]

Once we have the boat off it's trailer we will need to improve it's appearance. Hopefully a good scrub wll suffice for the topside but can anyone recommend a product to scrub it with. It could probably do with something very slightly abrasive. Is there a T-Cut equivalent for polishing GRP?

 

The hull will be rubbed down, any slight defects filled, sanded and then painted. Again, any recommendations for suitable products? I'm thinking she will have to have a decent undercoat after which a nice, bright red top coat as I believe that was one of the original colours offered by Bradwell from new. Is there a decent 1 part top coat or am I resigned to using two-pack?

 

After that it will be antifoul. Again, product recomendations would be most welcome.

 

Also, can anyone offer any guesses as to how much paint I'll need for an 18ft trailer sailer? Will 2.5 liters be enough, or is that too much?

[dnks34]

I will suggest starbrite rubbing compound for topsides however there may be cheaper alternatives im not aware of!

[Rincewind]

The Starbrite Liquid Rubbing Compund already mentioned is indeed a superb product but I've found it to be just a little too gentle at times especially with heavy oxidation. If you want something with a little more 'bite', Farécla G3 is an excellent alternative but...you need to use plenty of water with it as it can be a little over-zealous when used dry.

 

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[Oddfellow]

River scale can be removed with a domestic descalling product in the main. Oxalic acid is good if you wish to buy some (look on ebay and you can get synthesised versions for mixing yourself). Viakal and similar domestic products will work to a degree also. Be careful with handling and do not use afloat.

 

G3 works well with some green synthetic scouring pads (a little worn). Always keep the pads wet.

 

All these products will errode your antifoul and pull it around onto yoru gel so use cautiously in this area.

[Paul]

Thanks folks, and other than the obvious cautions of fine particles etc when rubbing down GRP, is there anything I need to be concerned about when sanding. It will be machine sanded. Can I sand the anti foul back or is there some ingeneous way of removing it that I only fathom out when I have just about finished?

[Paul]

And with regards to recoating, I'm looking at either Hempel or International, any comments on either?

[Samuel]

Hi

 

I'm a bit confused about what you intend for below the waterline. Once you remove the old paint and make good any defects I think you need only a  primer suitable for fibreglass and then antifoul (minimum 2 coats). Suggest you look at the International paints website or similar for accurate info on that. When choosing antifoul, two main points: were will it be used i.e. saltwater or briny water as in the Broads - on the former you need maximum protection strength, less important on the latter; the other point is watch out for immersion times - some antifouls need immersion in a few days, some a few months, others up to a year.

 

When removing antifoul be very careful, it is very toxic. Sanding should only be done if you have industrial quality respirators. Scraping is a safer option and some paint companies do special antifoul strippers.

[JawsOrca]

Hi Paul, 

 

Good tips already. With regards to antifoul, I wouldn't go near it unless it's coming off and if it is then scrape it off. Certainly don't sand as it's nasty stuff and even with decent respirators you will probably get a bit sick. If you really want to take it off then use a stripper such as Dilunette (http://www.tcschandlery.co.uk/owatrol-dilunet-marine-strip-paint-antifoul-stripper/p8967?gclid=Cj0KEQjw1duqBRDPlLKsuJCUiuABEiQAxgHwJyh5I1DVXaiUC576PosyfpJBgiFwZOe6hv5ZoeZo_boaAjxn8P8HAQ) but be careful as it can burn your skin if you aren't careful. Also you should really only put recoat with the same as that's on there as they aren't really compatible.  We are obviously new to Norfolk and on the coast here I used to antifoul every season so compatibility didn't really matter as it never really worked anyway. I understand Hemple Broads antifoul is good for the broads. I used Hemple classic as I couldn't get broads down here in Kent (and everything else was for salt water) but at present it's doing well in somerleyton.  As Samuel said if you take it off then get back to the gel coat and 2 coats of good underwater primer then 2 coats of suitable antifoul.

 

[Paul]

thanks for that, I had a feeling that anti foul was a bit nasty. I do have an air fed full face respirator but will happily go down the scraping route. Once all the anti foul is removed the plan is to sand, fill, sand again, fill again, sand again (repeat as necessary) then finish above the waterline with a nice bright red gloss finish and below the waterline with either a deep red or black anti foul.

 

The biggest issue I can see is the joint between hull and topsides which is currently exposed. It's an advantage in that I can repaint easily but refinishing will be tricky as the standoff varies wildly along the length. In places the joint stands over an inch from the hull, in others less than a quarter.