12v Multi Wire Battery Connectors

[Daddy Mouse]

You may all be using these, but I had never seen them before so i have just got 4 to try from ebay.

they look like a nice neat, simple way to keep battery terminals neat and tidy.

 

[Baitrunner]

They do look neat, but not so sure about the single screw holding the main cable in. Looks a bit lightweight for a decent size cable/current draw. 

[Daddy Mouse]

I will let you know when they arrive next week how sturdy they are.

  4 ports are 6.4mm diameter and the other port is 8mm diameter.

[Siddy]

Does it fit the standard battery stud or the smaller version? My 135Ah batteries in man shed have both studs could be a option to use whilst main stud goes to solar/12 volt board.

 

[Daddy Mouse]

I hope they fit standard stud or I have just wasted £20

[imtamping2]

Looks good to me ........

Here is a direct link...

http://wire5.co.uk

[Vaughan]

I was always taught that there should only be the two main cables going to a battery, from the master switches. Other connections are made elsewhere in the boat, usually at the main panel for the voltage trips. The only exception might be the bilge pump, which is allowed to bypass the master switch in EC regs, but it should, of course, still be protected by a trip or fuse.

[NeilB]

Boats that go through a few owners can have some interesting modifications!  One hireboat we purchased when only 3 or 4 years old had no BSS cert as it had only just started.  I was working my way through its winter maintenance and as usual had the radio on.  Turned all the master switches off and it took me a minute or so to notice the radio stayed on!!  The builder had 2 cables running from the positive terminal, one to each side of the master switch rendering it useless !

[MBA Marine]

 

The battery connector gets a big no from me.  Like Vaughan says the only wires i like to see at the battery are the main battery cables, I personally like to isolate the positive line, on the permanent live side of the battery isolator i will run a feed for bilge pump and at times the memory feed line for a stereo (both with a form of protection), then the distribution feed off the switched side of the switch to feed distribution board and or starter motor.

All negs terminate at a neg bus bar or common post then the main battery neg back to battery.

Lastly very few boats have it but its really good practice to have a heavy duty master fuse close to the batteries in the Positive to isolator line.

 

Not saying all other installation methods are wrong as there are a few ways to get a safe result but the above is my preference.

[Daddy Mouse]

On my boat there is a main isolator switch that selects which battery you want to run off & also turns all power off to the boat which as it's an outboard and no holes though the hull does not have a bilge pump. The only cables apart from the main are the charging cables that go straight to the battery terminals. That's the way it seems to have been built 3 years ago. I was going to use this to tidy the charging cables up which are all fairly small.

Sent from the Norfolk Broads Network mobile app

[imtamping2]

Point taken.....horses for courses.....these are better than than a number of crimp terminals attached to the clamp bolts.

Some things as stated require a constant feed, these are getting more and more,

Bilge pump , alarm system , solar panel etc