Naijan Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 I don't know if anyone is checking this forum anymore?! .........however won't hurt to ask. I need to buy new set of seacock's to replace all old corroded fittings, and I'm thinking about buying Groco flanged seacock 1,1/2 for black water (is it big enough?) something like that And probably something like that but smaller for raw water intake. I wonder if anyone have used Groco products and can comment on that, or maybe there is better alternative without cosmic pricing. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diesel falcon Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Well some people still check this forum, are you based in the uk?? the link is usa.If you are replacing the through hull fittings you could fit any available cocks available in uk here..http://www.asap-supplies.com/.1/12 inch pipe plenty big enough for black water hope that,s a little help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naijan Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 Hi thanks for getting back, yes I'm in UK boat is in Essex, I was trying to find some UK suppliers for flanged seacocks UK prices are very high, maybe I just didn't look hard enough. What size would you recommend for raw water intake if I may ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diesel falcon Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Basicly what,s already there then you can,t go wrong, depends on engine size or requirements of the heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naijan Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 Yes that's probably best way, thanks for link they got some good stuff there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBA Marine Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 1.5" is fine for your Black water (pumped) 2" if your your using gravity (I remember your diagram you were pumping out) And I would go for 1.25" for your engine but you will be fine on 1" if thats your choice if your using the original inlet position its a bit snug down there, remember your engine needs a strainer/weed trap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naijan Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 Yes black water will be pumped out, engine still have original seacock with "can" like bronze or brass strainer which needs to be serviced and re-sealed or replaced if not good anymore. Other thing.....there are two cockpit drains with gate valves which needs to be replaced too, is there any particular reason for using gate valves for cockpit drains? Problem is boat has been out of the water now for over two years and all wooden spacers on seacocks are bone dry and slightly shrunk, I want to replace them with fibreglass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBA Marine Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Yes black water will be pumped out, engine still have original seacock with "can" like bronze or brass strainer which needs to be serviced and re-sealed or replaced if not good anymore. Other thing.....there are two cockpit drains with gate valves which needs to be replaced too, is there any particular reason for using gate valves for cockpit drains? Problem is boat has been out of the water now for over two years and all wooden spacers on seacocks are bone dry and slightly shrunk, I want to replace them with fibreglass. The 'can' thing is known as a 'fishermans' or 'Norfolk' strainer both are of a similar design. Do not fit gate valves anywhere only use ball valves. The wooden spacer thing you speak of must be on the inside of the hull, to level up for the nut and spread the load, here's how to replace them. 1, if you tape around the lower thread of your fitting and push into the hull, you might need a strutt below to hold it. 2, Apply GRP multch, P40 or similar (lets call it paste) to the hull around the fitting. 3, Using a pre-made ply washer also covered with tape drop over the fitting and onto your paste. 4, Wind the nut down until you press the washer slightly into your paste, and leave to set. 5, Remove the nut, fitting and washer leaving you with a based up hole, sand around to clean up. 6, paint a cote of gel or epoxy around the hole. 7, once dry you can install the fitting, valve ect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naijan Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 Is this 'fisherman's' or 'Norfolk' strainer worth keeping if in good condition? Do you ever bother with fitting seacock's to fittings above water line like washbasin drains or is it inline non-return valve enough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBA Marine Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 The yachts I used to work on, we fitted a valve to every outlet. your average cruiser does not tend to have valves above water line. If the non return valve is attached to the skin fitting it will work, further down the pipe and its not protecting the whole pipe length, however with a non return so close to the outlet it may get fouled with debris and no longer function. Your strainer is probably fine to re-use if your keeping the fitting sizes as they were, it might be worth replacing the gauze weed trap inside and the gasket on the cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naijan Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 Apologises for re-heating the topic. I'm about to order all skin fitting dilemma is Bronze or Brass? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jillR Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 we always used bronze as they are better when used in salt water areas and parts of the broads are salt so id say bronze. it took me a while to track it down here is a copy of the info sheet that goes with the jabsco PAR manual toilet. a tip ..... tip in a little cooking oil now and then, it works wonders to keep it pumping smoothly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbird Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 Make sure you do not buy ordinary bronze fittings, as these dezincify over time and become incredibly brittle and can fail. Below the waterline use DZR Bronze which are more expensive but do not have this problem. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naijan Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 Thank you for that guys, I was 99.9% set up for Bronze. I have found reasonably cheap supplier selling DZR Bronze fittings. Will be ordering and fitting them next week, thinking back we were lucky that this boat didn't went down after we bought it. Almost all the skin fittings (apart raw engine water intake) have crumbled away during later restoration. All the best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naijan Posted September 8, 2013 Author Share Posted September 8, 2013 Just bought set of bronze fittings and valves (cost fortune), I'm thinking of using Sikaflex 291 for bedding, what would be the best stuff to use for sealing the threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbird Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Personally I'd use marine grade silicon sealant for the fittings and prefer tape on the threads. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naijan Posted September 9, 2013 Author Share Posted September 9, 2013 Something like m3 stuff? Do you use regular PTFE tape? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbird Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Yes, just regular PTFE tape, as they are only connections for water pipes at the end of the day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBA Marine Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 I use PTFE and bit of Sika (or Arbo mercic, Saba, Purflex. much cheaper than sika). I have worked for a yard that has also used: Boss white with hemp, Hermotite and PTFE then they moved to using Loctite 577 on all fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naijan Posted September 9, 2013 Author Share Posted September 9, 2013 I use PTFE and bit of Sika (or Arbo mercic, Saba, Purflex. much cheaper than sika). I have worked for a yard that has also used: Boss white with hemp, Hermotite and PTFE then they moved to using Loctite 577 on all fittings. Yes i heard about Loctite 577 is this supposed to be used with PTFE tape or on his own, i probably need to dry fit everything to make sure of correct aligment of the valve handles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quo vadis Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Silicone, if a little should a lot must!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naijan Posted September 10, 2013 Author Share Posted September 10, 2013 When fitting the bent hose connector to the valve with use of correct thread sealant, is it ok to not tightening it right to the end lets say leave turn or two so it can be correctly aligned? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ranworthbreeze Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Hello Naijan, I normal plumbing terms to do what you wish to do I would say you would be better off using boss white and hemp, but how effective on a boat that would be you need to take advice from the boat yard forum members that have already answered your post. Regards Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBA Marine Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Yes i heard about Loctite 577 is this supposed to be used with PTFE tape or on his own, i probably need to dry fit everything to make sure of correct aligment of the valve handles. if using 577, degrease all threads assemble everything dry, mark the fittings at the desired angles, a squirt of 577 in one line down the (male) threads then assemble, it is not necessary to screw the fittings until tight, turn by hand until your happy/your marks line up and walk away, 10 mins later you will find the fittings are firm and water tight, leave it a few days and you should find fittings are blooming tough to undo (not that you would want to undo) should you wish to separate things then warming with a hot air gun will soften the 577. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBA Marine Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Hello Naijan, I normal plumbing terms to do what you wish to do I would say you would be better off using boss white and hemp, but how effective on a boat that would be you need to take advice from the boat yard forum members that have already answered your post. Regards Alan Boss white and hemp works fine although can be a fiddle to get the correct amount of hemp on the threads to get a tight joint with the tail in the correct orientation. PTFE is easier than hemp, you can get thicker PTFE which is good for bigger threads. Loctite 577 is easiest as you just set the tail at the angle you want and let it set, I use PTFE simply because its cheap! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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