Antares_9

Well, NFN at least.

Go for the Tohatsu Jim, they make the small outboards for just about all the big names to re badge so a quality piece of kit with good back up. The Hidea ones are not that cheap when you consider the unknown heritage, I would want a bit more of an incentive to be an early adoptor with something like that.

Indeed Perry, and they are all boating seasons, but not apparently caravaning seasons. SAt on a nice cosy kingfisher right now and there's nothing "not waned on vayage" to be seen, mind you all my tools and diagnostic kit are cluttering up a motor sailer at the moment.

Welcome, just ask away.

Only once if you go over the side at the same time without a LJ Ian. I do feel with this recurring theme that the old adage you can lead a horse to water ... applies very strongly. Most people know the importance of wearing one, if not then take the time to explain it once, if they still choose not to then just let Darwin do his job.

I used to find the old fisherman pattern useful when we found some rough ground to fish over too, not that it’s easy to find anything but sand and mud on the East Coast. The plough was as much use in that situation as the fisherman or grapnel pattern was in sand and mud.

Welcome, and I hope you find it useful and amusing.

Shaft anodes are for low speed cradt really Mark, have a look at the MG Duff site, they will have replacement prop nuts which takes a cone shaped anode, a much more elegant solution as they are in direct electrical contact and it is the props that require most protection because of possible dezinctification and ensuing big bills, also the clamp on shaft ones can come loose and even put high speed shafts out of balance. http://www.mgduff.co.uk/mgduff-product-catalog/The+%91Martyr%92+range/Martyr+Prop+Nut+Anodes/

That's what I use as my main anchor too John, like the Delta and many others based on the plough pattern it works really well in East Coast mud and sand.

You must be confusing us with PBO Perry, they love a good "what anchor thread", usually starts a massive riot, especially if you mention Rhoncas

Perfect East Coast handbrake Perry, now we just need to find some way of making it play nicely with the launching roller, I must remember to put my Danforth back on board as a kedge / back up too as it's currently lounging in the boat bit cupboard at home.

Found a copy on my archived mails. "You have been sent this email as a result of a request for confirmation of your password. Vessel: KINGFISHER Your username is: ???????????????????????????? Your password is: £££££££££££ The data you enter on our register will only be used for search and rescue or safety purposes. If you have any queries, please do not reply to this email. Please submit a support request via the online forms. Regards, CG66 Customer Services

I really wouldn’t worry Ian, I recall getting a similar message at renewal time a while ago reminding me of the log in too, I expect they assume, probably quite rightly in many cases that people have forgotten log in details as they only use them every couple of years or so.

Me either.

Good quality stuff Andy, the fit and finish would put many production boats to shame. Good idea to keep the battery as close to the sink as possible and save on cabling to the basin pump by the way.

A very good point Ian, for low value items it really isn't worth claiming, in fact you could probably save money by not including them and "self insuring", our policy with GJW allows for no exess and no loss of NCB if the insured event happens in our marina, and, as that's where most boats spend most of their time is statistically the most likely place theft or malicious damage and impact damage would occur. The marina we were in when the outboard was half inched was not on their list and one of the reasons we moved to GMS as they are.

It is worth pointing out that a diesel cooling system can run close to if not at 90 degrees when run for long periods, so there can be an issue as Barry describes with no actual fault with the cut out or the motor cooling system per se, that's why I sugggested the possibility of a restrictor, though I agree, in the final analysis it is most likely the trip. I did actually have to fit a restrictor once when all else failed however.

Some cut outs are seperate Barry, some part of the element, depends on it's age and design, if it's combined with the thermostat probe then it's an easy job.

You have explained it right Barry, it's simply that the engine water heat trips the thermal cut out on the immersion element, there is no adjustment as it's a safety device, I guess you could try replacing it as they cost bus fares, if that fails you can fit a restrictor valve in the engine hot water circuit so it doesn't get so hot. Another possibility which I have seen is in a twin coil calorifier where somebody has plumbed it to circulate both coils, in that case just disconnect one coil and see if that helps.

That's a standard endorsement for marine policies, make sure you also give them the serial #, it has always been a mater of contention as to whether "anti theft device" means a proprietry lock intended for O/Bs or just a lock, personally I would just use a good quality lock and take a photo of the set up locked and keep it filed on your computer for possible future use, but then I'm a bit anal about stuff like insurance. Fact is if the scrotes want it they wil have it, we had a little 4hp nicked about 15 years ago and it was fixed with a proprietry lock and on a kicker bracket on the main boat and it was afloat so had to be done from dingy.

Would you want it to? it will be connected up to seatalk I imagine which will work very well, if you wish to replace the current plotter with new and get it to work with that then yes it will via the control head, I am sure I have and old scanned copy of the install manual in my archives if you do not have one. The only issue I see with interfacing to modern stuff is the 0183 version but most stuff is backward compatible.

And how would one of those ever look fantastic.

Yes Mark, you can connect to two listeners, even three, but the autopilot may well have a lot more than simple track info being fed currently, fluxgate heading, and the like, there may be a fast heading sensor connected, in fact there must be if you want to overlay the radar data to your plotter in a meaningful way. Block sentences and the like need not concern you as you have no control over them, save to switch them on and off and that is obvious in device menus, all you can affect is the physical connections between devices and that is very straight forward matter of physicalities.

Fairly correct Mark, remember a device can only take in one set of info per channel (cable pair) though a device can talk to up to three listeners at once otherwise it gets very confused, it becomes more complex as there are different NMEA levels and some stuff only listens for specific sentences, none of it is mission critical. You may find it easier in a number of instances to eithe use Seatalk on the Raymarine stuff and even use bridging through some devices or even using multiplexers. I'm a certified advanced NMEA installer authorised by the NMEA to 0400 standard and even I find it a bit of a head scratch job sometimes, thank goodness for N2K I say. If you are going to connect then try to use (or replace any existing cabling) with twisted pair tinned shielded cable of between 22 / 28 AWG and ground the shield at the talker end only to give the job the best chance of working in a crowded loom.

I was kindly informed from the other forum last night that this was done with the full knowlege of the deceased's family so comments relating to premature naming, including mine are, in this instance incorrect and an apology is due and offered.