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Gunwharf Quays - D-day Museum


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So after the disappointment of the campavan, the increase of carer duty and the will to spend the kid's inheritance, we take short breaks when we can to relieve a bit of stress.

Why Gunwharf Quays – because we've been there before; no point risking a new venue in the winter as anywhere is nice when it's warm. For those who don't know, it's an ex-naval base which has been turned into a shopping mall and entertainment venue. Loads of eating places from Pret and Slug & Lettuce to Raymond Blanc.

There was a weather window on Sunday and Monday which lined up nicely with our carer's duty and Mrs Raser's work so we booked a night at the Holiday Inn Express and a meal at Zizzis on the waterfront. The hotel is the only one on site but what it lacks in refinement it makes up for in location; park the car underneath it and forget about it! The parking is only £2 day anyway and I like how they have red and green LEDs to mark the taken/available spaces.

After caring duty Sunday morning we were already packed and set of south at 12.00, stopping at Warwick services for a quick sandwich and cuppa. Steady run to the coast and got there around 15.30.

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The old Customs House is one of the few remaining original buildings. Inside, they use the original layout (probably listed) which makes dining in smaller rooms cosy. We started with G&T here but I clocked a nice looking porter ale for later on...

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You are constantly reminded of the history of the place.

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Imagination needed: It's a warm summer day, the parasols are unfurled, choose your seats. You need sharp elbows to get near the rope! This where we like to be in the summer, here's view:

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It's almost obligatory to include a sunset pic isn't it? :default_smiley-char054:

Had no room for another drink after wine at Zizzis. Sorry to let the side down but I never developed a capacity for copiuos amounts of alcohol. Outside of Rugby matches that is.

I had booked the hotel and Zizzis online, not bad for a bloke over 50, and it worked. Good news: when we checked in the receptionist told us we get discounts at most of the restaurants on site, including Zizzis - 20%! :default_party0010:

Bad news: Husbands look away now - she also told us we get 10% off in most of the shops on site! Oh dear. Monday morning we had breakfast and went shopping where got 10% off everything we 100% didn't need! :default_badday:

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If you look at Google around Southsea you will find the D-Day Museum. If you zoom in close enough you will see “Landing craft LCT 7074”. I was amazed to see this as I never knew they made any landing craft this big. It is also a healthy walk along the seafront from Gunwharf which is what we like to do to keep healthy.

So after shopping and checking out we put the stuff in the car and set off. There are reminders of the naval history of the area everywhere, and some rather run down seaside amusements as you get towards Southsea. At least they are renovating the sea defences in places.

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And finally, something else I'd like to fit to the Denham Owl:

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The rest of the museum was very good and for me portrayed a sense of fear and anticipation which they must have felt at the time. A welcome bonus was the excellent cafe within the museum where we had lunch before the pleasant walk back.

Conclusions: We had a lovely short break which served it's purpose. The hotel is ok for what it is, clean etc but avoid Saturday nights like the plague, we've learnt by experience. At around 2am you get awakened by the ghost of a dying relationship. You look through the spy hole in the door and in the corridor there will be a young person sitting with legs accross the corridor, sobbing their socks off while their soon to be ex partner pleads innocence of the crime of paying too much attention to another person in the nightclub accross the way. I would guess Friday nights would be similar. Breakfast is very good if you ignore what they try to pass as bacon. It's totally inedible; if you do manage to cut it you've just wasted your time as you'll never chew it.

One thing we love about Gunwharf Quays is that we never feel out of place; wandering around in the evening there are people of all adult ages and plenty of security.

We got home at around 18.30, chucked the stuff in home then nipped off to the local Hungry Horse to save on washing up. We're looking forward to more of these off-peak short breaks once Mrs Raser retires at the end of May...

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I think the Gunwharf Quays used to be where HMS Vernon was, the anti submarine training establishment.

I love Pompey, spent a lot of time in that dockyard, I am contemplating a short visit soon but fearful of what I will find, will all my old haunts be plastic theme pubs ? I am told they have even tarted up Rubys, removed all the Naval Plaques that covered the walls,   { well plaques and an inch of nicotine.}

I know things have to change, but memories should not be tampered with !

BTW Great post.

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Interesting to read your post. Thank you for sharing your trip. We're on the south coast in a few weeks time and I'm hoping to get a day in Portsmouth. I've only ever passed through before on the way to the Isle of Wight. But I have tracked down some ancestors to the area of the dockyards and am hoping to get a walk around the area.

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1 hour ago, Lastdraft said:

I think the Gunwharf Quays used to be where HMS Vernon was, the anti submarine training establishment.

I love Pompey, spent a lot of time in that dockyard, I am contemplating a short visit soon but fearful of what I will find, will all my old haunts be plastic theme pubs ? I am told they have even tarted up Rubys, removed all the Naval Plaques that covered the walls,   { well plaques and an inch of nicotine.}

I know things have to change, but memories should not be tampered with !

BTW Great post.

You are correct: https://www.vernonlink.uk/

The Vulcan building is still there as apartments, some available for rent I believe. I think it's where they kept the canon balls etc? Before your time I'm guessing! :default_smiley-char054: There are also some parts of the outer wall and main gate still preserved. Just my opinion: I think it's great that they have repurposed it but kept alive it's history. Modern generations can't escape it's heritage. They look after it too, it's not showing too many signs of wear & tear or neglect. I would say it's in good hands.

BTW I declare that naval memories on here are not a thread drift! :default_beerchug:

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 21/02/2023 at 19:18, floydraser said:

If you look at Google around Southsea you will find the D-Day Museum.

A few years ago I had the wonderful experience of being the instructor/safety for a group of 16 year olds undertaking a D of E expedition under sail. They chose the D_Day landings as their project theme. For their practice expedition they sailed from Hample to Gunwharf, where they visited the museum. They went to Langstone Harbour, where a broken cassion for the Mulberry Harbour still survives. They visited Stansore Point, where some of the cassions were built and they sailed up the Beaulieu river to Exbury, wher SOE had their D-Day planning headquarters.

For the main expedition they crossed the channel to Oistreham and went up the canal to Pegasus Bridge, wher they visited the museum. From there it was down the coast past all the main landing beaches to anchor inside the remains of the Mulberry Harbour at Arromanches. Then to Cherbourg to visit the German U-Boat there and finally back to the Hamble. It was a delight and priviledge to be able to help younsters another 2 generations removed from thoe tumultuous events to discover the history for themselves.

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Langstone Harbour: I looked and thought the Mulberry relic would be best seen by boat, but then found a good view on Google. Unfortunately, I can't embed the link. If you find it on Google and drag the little man over the Mulberry you will just see a little blue circle nearby. Drop the man on that for an aerial view.

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On 21/02/2023 at 19:18, floydraser said:

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Your photo of the front at Southsea shows the Naval Memorial, which itself, is well worth a visit.

Sailors in wartime very rarely have a grave on land : they are either lost at sea, or buried at sea.  On this memorial and on the walls around it, are listed the names of all who lost their lives on Portsmouth based ships, during both world wars, but who have no grave except the sea.  It says that there are similar ones at the Naval dockyards at Chatham and Plymouth (Devonport). 

I especially noticed  a large proportion of one whole wall, dedicated to the ship's company of HMS Hood.

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Across the common from the memorial is the Queens Hotel, where we always stay the night off the ferry from Caen. Their standard rooms are the same price as the good old Travelodge in the ferry port but the atmosphere is rather different :

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This is the memorial at dawn, from our hotel room balcony, looking out over Spithead to the Isle of Wight.

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The Royal Naval memorial in Chatham is on a large open historic fortification known as the Great Lines, overlooking Chatham town, surrounded by the Royal Engineers base and museum, Fort Amherst, the old naval dockyard, the former Royal Naval hospital and my old secondary school.

Whilst at school the Great Lines were used for cross country running, ( I hated it ). The furthest point was the memorial.

I appreciate the memorial more now than I did all those years ago.

 

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