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About floydraser

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  1. Hi everyone, I nipped over on 13th Jan, cleaned the oil from the forward bilge and fitted the new bilge pump. I also took over the new Ecoair dehumidifier which is being controlled via a Sonoff switch and eWelink app. The switch also has the temperature/humidity probe. The Ecoair drains into the bilge where the new pump can hoof it over the side if necessary. At one point while over at the boat and with the Ecoair off, the app showed 6 degrees C and 90%! After a couple of days it dropped to 60% and stayed there for a while, but now it's down to the mid-fifties. The temperature has stayed above freezing up until now but if it drops below 1 degree I'll switch it off. But what about the mystery tank I hear you cry? Well, I freed up the offending floorboard and all became clear: there's a chuffing great galvanised tank down there! It's 6ft long, 15" deep and 27" wide, with a slight chamfer for the hull shape. As it's mate is GRP I think I'll assume the original set up was a pair of galvanised tanks. The metal tank also explains the brown water I got from the taps after the move south by lorry, and the eternity taken to drain the tanks. So for the sake of the future of the boat I think a WRAS standard new tank is called for, but as I'm a bit short on boaty experience could anyone suggest a more practical size to go for? I'm thinking about a quick emptying system too if there is such a thing? To help keep the water replenished. Thanks in anticipation. Floyd.
  2. Thanks John. I may have to try something like that if the latest rig fails.
  3. Three latest Denham Owl vids: Part 3: Part 4: Part 5: Nothing much doing in the January sales and I ended up with an Ecoair Simple. Next trip over will involve experimenting with a Sonoff TH16 with temperature/humidity sensor to control it. It works here at a distance of 3 feet via my home broadband; just need to add 142 miles....
  4. Thanks London Rascal. There was an 80W tube heater already in the engine bay of Denham Owl, and Consort Frost Fighter next to the water and black waste tanks. I have replaced the tube for one with a thermostat and put a 40W version under the galley floor where there's an inlet I can't isolate. I have oil heaters but don't have them on. As we have wi-fi at BGM I am considering getting a desiccant dehumidifier and operating it via a smart plug. A couple of my neighbours there have Ecoair models but there doesn't seem to be much between them and the Meaco DD8, so it's down to the January sales!
  5. Thanks Mark, I also discovered the free wi-fi on Tuesday and wondered if the technology to use remote control has come down in price to a worthwhile level.
  6. Actually I had thought about leaving a couple of windows open as everything is covered anyway, I just wasn't brave enough to because of spiders and hibernating hornets. I'll put more crystal dehumidifiers in next visit, open windows with net covers and consider an electric dehumidifier.
  7. And the winner is: .......dramatic pause just like the telly....and just as corny......grendel! Everyone else is voted off the show. Or not. I nipped over on Tuesday for three things: to see why the bilge pump didn't work, make the cover fit without making a swimming pool with every rainfall, and investigate the mystery tank. All that was overshadowed by the appearance of mould everywhere! In the short term I've hoovered and cleaned the upholstery and treated everything else with mould remover/killer. Then installed a crystal dehumidfier from the local hardware store. The bilge pump switch has three positions: auto, off and manual. When switched to manual, there was no sound or action from the pump but there was quite a load registering on the ammeter, which has always bothered me. The actual bilge pump seemed to work perfectly, but independant of it's switch, then it packed up between my visits. Yesterday I went after the wiring. My circuit diagram showed a white wire and white/black wire to the pump but present were black and red. I traced them back to the supply for the freshwater pump. So having drained the water tank(s!) for winter, I had to switch off the freshwater pump/pressure sensor and hence, no bilge pump. I put "rewire bilge pump" on the list of jobs for next time. That would mean going into the spaghetti behind the dash! I had put an old pallet which I had "upholstered" over the Houdini hatch at the front to help stop condensation but I still wasn't happy about the cover. I added a double folding step to the pallet so the cover could be higher than the rail and fit better all round. It would also keep more of the deck drier for longer enabling work to continue underneath. Did that, knackered myself crawling around under the bloody thing for an hour then found a hole in it! Thank God for kneepads but damn that anchor locker Houdini right at the bow, with a broken handle which I reckon made the hole. Nothing is ever straightforward is it? Just lift the correct floorboard and the mystery tank should be underneath right? The floorboard in question is about 6ft by 2ft and held captive by the engine hatch. The engine hatch is most of the saloon floor and lifts to just beyond vertical. The heavy, 6 person table has to be moved first and the only space is on the 6ft by 2ft floorboard. I turned it over onto the seating and just managed to get it clear. I lifted the engine hatch and tried to lift the big board, but it would only slide a bit as it was still held captive by the woodwork for the non-existent log burner! I gave up and lifted the smaller board under the helm seat. I found a pipe which came from under the tank and headed accross the boat and although I couldn't see for sure, I assumed it was connected to the tank. I also found more of the intact cable/pulley system for the canopy, then put everything back. The pipe went under the kitchen stairs so these came out followed by the floorboard below them. BINGO! Pipes and taps to balance two freshwater tanks as foretold on this forum! See pic (taken from video) Will those yellow topped things be NR valves? And to the rear of the left one is the biggest surprise of the day: the original bilge pump! Well not quite the original but it does have the correct wiring and it must be jammed because it gets current when switched to manual. The other pump is further forward under the kitchen and it's main job is to take away water from the shower tray which drains there. The wiring diagram only shows one pump. So unless someone has a better suggestion I think the way forward is to replace the "main" pump and drop the shower pump into a plastic sump because: nothing is going to get pumped overboard for a while as there is oil everywhere! There'll be nowhere to hide if I produce an oil slick on the still waters of Brundall Gardens! After I've got as much out by soaking rags there'll still be traces of oil to flush out so any tips would be most welcome. I have at my disposal an old homebrew bucket, 240 volt sump pump and of course, 12v pumps. I also have a 12v sump oil pump, the sort for sucking engine oil up via the dip stick hole. Video soon.
  8. I'll be looking next time I'm over. There's a vent and an outlet on the port side: the vent is the breather for the fuel tank (inline with the filler on the deck), and just forward of it is what looks like a drain. There is a similar drain on the other side suspiciously near to the freshwater filler..... I've tried to upload a pic but it's not having it. Thanks for the replies, it's given me a bit to look for.
  9. I think that may well be the case. Firstly, it took ages to drain the water even though the open tube indicator showed the level to be low. Also, some information gives the fresh water capacity as 100 gallons which I thought would be a lot of weight to have on one side of the boat. So I should expect to find a connecting pipe accross the bilge and a vent somewhere if that's the case. I'm getting more and more intrigued. I'm trying to think of a prize for the most correct guess....
  10. Hmm, could be but there is no filler on the deck. I've just checked my video (2b) where I walk along that side. I found what I believe to be the fresh water inlet for the heads under the galley floor, with a valve which has stuck solid. Unfortunately I won't be able to get over during the week now because some fool found me some paid work!
  11. Here's a bit of an update as I seem to have time on my hands for a change: I've been over to Brundall a few times now and have come to enjoy the food, beer and service at the Yare pub. The best friend of one of my Sons has offered to help with the deck caulking which is not only good news for my knees, but it should result in a more professional job; he's a pro yacht skipper with experience of such things. I said I was going to use the SIS440 but Mike is used to Sika 290 and it turns out to be around 25% cheaper at current prices. Will Kirby of Freshwater Marine was passing and stopped by as he recognised the boat. He and his Dad had a couple of Santa Caterinas in their fleet when they ran Freshwater Cruisers. I now have a slightly better understanding of the canopy mechanism and where to look for it! Competition time, it's called, "Guess what the tank is for". Under the saloon floor the engine bay is in the middle. Starboard side has the black water tank forward and fresh water tank to the rear of it. Port side has the diesel tank to the rear but we found another tank in front of it just as darkness fell and we were ready to leave. Next time I'll have more of the floor up to investigate but it is a mystery to us. On the earlier suggestions on this forum I emailed Martham Boats and Eastwood Whelpton but had no reply from either, I was hoping to trace original drawings from Harvey Eastwoods. I see that the Financial Director of Broom is a Matthew Harvey. Would anyone here know if there is a connection? Floyd.
  12. I have come to the conclusion that the only way forward properly is to rip up the coating and redo the caulking. No point in taking shortcuts so I'll be using SIS 440. It's most likely to happen after the winter which gives me time to find the best price. Does anyone know anywhere cheaper than Bradechem? I guess given the boat is 48 years old, the present coating could have been applied 30 years ago in which, that ain't bad! Covering Letonk.mp4
  13. Thanks John, I'll try and remember to check that; on the list of future jobs is treatment of blisters/antifoul/through hull connections etc. She seems to purr along nicely at quite low revs but once we're able to get her out onto the river proper I'll get an experienced opinion.
  14. Carefull guys; I'm beginning to feel inadequate!
  15. Thanks for that, I'll make a note for the future.
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