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Teak or Danish oil? External?


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Hi All,

 

I need to oil the swimdeck and I'm not paying for marine grade products! (Toolstation special!), but what should I use; teak or Danish oil? It seems Danish oil is internal only?

 

Any tips, The would is Balau if that means anything lol!

 

cheers

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What about linseed oil? That would give it a good bounce! Just break it in with a cricket ball on a stick! :naughty:  Seriously Alan, I would think one of the Old Guard on here - I use that word old very loosly I may add- will assist you in the correct choice that doesn't cost an arm n a leg! :norty:

 

 

cheers Iain.

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I used Danish Oil on my mast last year and am well pleased with how its stood up to the elements. This spring a quick rub down with fine wire wool, a couple of coats dabbed on with a cloth and it looks good for another twelvemonth. Just make sure the cloth dries out properly before you bin it as they can combust apparently.

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Lol Iain! Is it going to be Castrol oil 5x40w next? no!! Although the chandlers seem to be selling linseed oil too...  :shocked

 

Thanks Alan, that looks lovely. I'm I right in thinking Danish oil is more like a polish/varnish than an oil? The swimdeck just needs protecting from the water really and I really don't want to have to varnish it every 5 mins! I also don't mind it not looking too pretty as long as the lasts a couple of years. cheers

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A few years ago, there was a very good group test of varnish versus oil in Practical Boat Owner.

 

They concluded that Varnish will always give a more attractive and harder wearing finish, but that when time and effort was considered, oil was much quicker and easier, especially when recoating.

 

I've tried everything over the years, and I've settled on varnish for interior woodwork, and oil for exterior.

 

Interior varnish can last for decades, but when left outside in the open air and exposed to sunlight and weather, it flakes after a couple of years or so, no matter how carefully it's done, and even using the most expensive poly varnish.

 

...and there's the rub...   if it has blistered, you have to scrape the whole lot off, sand, and then several new coats.  Several days of heavy and dusty work.

 

Whereas with oil, it never "flakes" because it has no hard skin.  You just flat it down with sandpaper, and reapply. It can even be done with a cloth rather than a brush.

 

So with varnish it's several days work, compared to a couple of afternoons with oil. :)

 

I've used Deks Olje D1, and Sikkens Cetol Novatech, both recommended by the PBO test report.

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Hi Alan,

 

Danish Oil does soak into the wood on the first coat and dries to a dull sheen and unlike other oils does fully dry, I normally give the dried coat a light rub down with the finest wire wool and then wash down with a lint free cloth using meth's or white spirit, when full dry reapply more coats of Danish Oil, wire wool down the surface prior to the last coat.

 

Regards

Alan  

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Alan, as Strowie and Ranworth say, I just gave it a slight 'flatting' and wiped more on, left overnight hanging in the shed then did the same again - total actual hands-on time maybe an hour. AND no need to worry about brush marks or runs! I could probably left it another year but it'd faded a bit in the sun on the top surfaces.

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Alan, as Strowie and Ranworth say, I just gave it a slight 'flatting' and wiped more on, left overnight hanging in the shed then did the same again - total actual hands-on time maybe an hour. AND no need to worry about brush marks or runs! I could probably left it another year but it'd faded a bit in the sun on the top surfaces.

 

Yes, oil turns the "touching up" of external wood from a long-winded chore into a pleasant few minutes task that can be done whenever it looks a bit faded.

 

I used to keep an oil application rag in an air tight plastic bag and some disposable latex gloves aboard, so there wasn't even any brush cleaning required. :)

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