diesel falcon

Looks good, did you get the nosings with the kit or were they part of the original finish??

£1.05 NURSE!! And no plastic ! will need a security escort to transport the cash!

Hi, Mark how much was fuel at Goodchilds ?? need a fill up before i go anywhere!!,boat looked really well when saw you leaving sat

Ok OK ,guess i,ll have to admit to the cock up!!.Who spent 85 quid on a new turbo oil feed pipe ...when it was a misfited gasket all the time..doh doh

We had gorgeous fish and chips and beer in the Bell sat night ..can,t fault them at the moment???

And??

Coarse if you waited for the right day you could do what these people have done ....The French Connection (Top of Page) I've owned my Freeman 22 Mk 2 since 1978; we've done 3 channel crossings - 1980,1981 and 1995 and she's now based in Briare in France. Mooring fees here are high for the French canals at about £200 a year (!) I have kept her at Roanne further south where the fees are £70 a year - pontoon berth, water, electricity, showers, toilets all included; it's a different world! "Trillium" spent many years cruising the Thames, being based at Walton, Richmond, Hampton on Garricks Ait and at Bossoms in Oxford before the advent of the ridiculous so-called "Boat Safety Scheme" sent me back to France. Apart from anything else, I'm very attached to my Goodridge braided steel armoured fuel line and very unwilling to change it to a bit of rubber pipe! http://www.freemancruiser.co.uk/tales.htm very good freeman site .....i would still be extremly wary about going to sea in one though,anything more than a ripple and you,ll be looking at the sky a lot!!

Freeman 22 ,s are not famed for thier sea keeping qualities,i think you,ll find the hull is rated for river use ,the tide get s a bit quick at gt y,too

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/public ... u5ZhxKfxi8 these are 96 quids and can be found here http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalo ... EoQ8wIwAg# conect it up turn on and forget!

AND.....don,t forget to open your sea cock!

Slightly off topic but still tolls, Has anybody heard /know ,if the ba can warn/prosicute you for not having a tolls disc in your mariner? i know they were going for it ,but has it been made law yet?

no!! not conected

hi, go to o ring section they do packs @1.50 http://budgetbearings.co.uk/shop/index.php

Huston.....we av arproblem....cloning has taken place!!

Hellow all, been down the boat this weekend to finish the rebuilding of the Leg and Chew,s starboard engine,and iam happy to report that the engine is finished and has been started and runs fine One small downer is we burst the turbo oil feed pipe ,being a flexable made up hose with crimped ends(like a hydraulic hose) i may have to buy a new one....85squids ,that,s if the local hydraulic hose maker can,t help. Thanks go,s to Que Vadis for all his help and advise on this job,and Doug Ashley marine for the freebie hose and copper washers , Thanks also to wombat....for the tea!! and jiffy for loan of tools

hi, if you look at section 11 ,handbook.It,s the shape of the led surround that gives you the right orientation of how to mount it to the board ie the flat lines up with the edge of the board? sorry the edge lines up with the edge painted on board

hi,from the pics above ,surely it just solders straight onto the board,dosn,t matter which way ,if you wanted to mount it remote ly so you could see it just needs two cables soldering to board then to led??

Funny that my boat cleaners called Sue!! DUCK!!

m

copy and paste mate!!

Installation: 1. Clean off all old gasket material on the bell housing and the outdrive. Replace all o-rings on the shaft, inside the bell housing, and the water passage o-ring (glue or grease it to hold it in place). On Gen. ll units with an internal reservoir, make sure the o-ring is OK around the gear lube fitting. Install a new gasket. 2. Using a good marine grease, liberally grease the “U†joints, the roller on the shift slide, the shift slide itself, the input shaft o-ring area and splines. 3.4. It helps to have the drive on the ground and the input shaft level with the boat. If you don’t have to lift the drive it is much easier. 5. You need to shift the drive into forward (hopefully the boat is still in forward). This done by turning the propshaft counter-clockwise while turning the brass shift shaft clockwise. Generation two units have a stainless steel shift shaft. You should feel it lock solidly. 6. It helps to have a prop on the drive in case you need to turn it to make the input shaft splines line up. 7. With the drive and boat in forward, everything greased, carefully slide the input shaft into the gimbal bearing. The shift crank roller should be engaged in the shift slide. (It helps to use a thick grease to hold these parts together) 8. If you bump the propeller, it may move out of forward, verify it’s still in forward. As you slide the drive in, you should feel the shaft go into the coupler, as it gets very close, you made need to turn the prop counter-clockwise to turn the input shaft slightly (it will turn with some resistance). At the same time you will be verifying the shift roller and slide are still where they should be. Work the drive into the splines and onto the studs. You will feel resistance from the o-rings. You should NOT have to force anything! 9. Now tighten the six nuts on the studs (45 foot pounds, or good and tight). Have a helper shift the boat into neutral (not running, please), then reverse and back to forward all the while spinning the prop. The prop should lock in forward and reverse and obviously spin free in neutral. If this is not the case, check to make sure the shift roller did not disengage the shift slide. In some cases when replacing the drive with a new unit, the shift may have to be adjusted. This is discussed in detail elsewhere, or you can take it to your dealer for an adjustment. 10. Replace the trim cylinder anchor pin hardware. 11. Refill the outdrive with good quality synthetic gear lube, recommended Quicksilver or Sierra hi performance synthetic gear lube. The gear lube is filled from the bottom up. With your gear lube pumping in the bottom, fill until the lube runs out the top hole. Replace the upper screw first, then the lower screw. The gear lube level should be given a final check after settling, preferably a day or so later. DONâ€T FORGET to fill the internal reservoir! 12. With a garden hose flush attachment attached or the boat in the water, run the engine and verify water pump operation (water should pump out of transom assembly) and good shift engagement forward and reverse (watch for obstacles or people when shifting). It is advisable when replacing with a new drive to verify proper shift adjustment with the boat in the water. Shifting should be firm and positive (no ratcheting) at or near the detent areas on the control box. Stalling when shifting and lack of cooling water being pumped are signs of other problems. Call for help. Recommended tools and supplies: 1. Hand tools: Ratchet and or breaker bar, Sockets 5/8†If you havn,t got it here,s a bit off the web

Hi, waterproof grease would be ideal,but if your surfaces are a bit pitted ,i,d use a smear of silicone ,don,t forget your glue for the bellows if it,s a bravo, Trev

part 3 is ssr typing error! ,the ni could relate to a port of registration ni for fishing vessels is..... NI Nice France NI Nieuwendam Netherlands

I thinks that,s part 1 registration,as part 3 is iss,??? may have had a mortgage against it?? ducks ...this could be totally wrong!!

Go on you know you want to lol