Antares_9

There are numerous places that will lift for you, I have seen some of them using cranes with no spreaders which worries the pants off me, a lift and chock if you want to dry the hull out over the winter also gives you a bit of time to do those jobs that can't be done in the water.

OK, firstly there should be no aluminium exposed on the outdrive , it should be painted, you may notice blistering if water has penetrated. The other reason is drives are not "aluminium" but rather an aluminium alloy with other additives to assist in retarding corrosion. A good quality "aluminium" anode is made with an aluminium alloy that is significantly different (more anodic) than the alloy used on a sterndrive or outboard.

Or you could get them from Boulters Perry, they're spot on :

Anything made of metal plus a nice big ingot bonded to the rest and mounted on the transom, that is assuming shaft drive. Stern drives and outboards will have provision by the manufacturers, but again another ingot on the transom and bonded to the others is worth having. A note on anode types which is of a general nature but nevertheless a good maxim. Zinc = Saltwater use Aluminium = Brackish use Magnesium = Fresh water use. The quality of anodes is an important factor also, so they should come from a reliable source, some of the cheaper ones contain impurities which reduce their effectiveness.

Silencers are available from all the heater makers Perry, just make sure you get the right size for your exhaust tubing (normally 22mm or 24/5mm). The exhaust tubing should be cut in the most convenient place (close to the heater is most effective) and the silencer inserted. There are proper clamps to use also and I have found that a little of the thin white exhaust sealant / lubricant used on car exhausts helps ease the fitting and helps prevent exhaust gasses leaking. Just make sure everything is secure and not close to combustible materials when you have finished. If you can get hold of some exhaust wrapping similar to that which is used on the exhaust tubing then wrap the silencer in that. IMPORTANT NOTE, check that no exhaust gasses are leaking and nothing around the exhaust is getting hot after you have completed the job. You may notice a slight “hot†smell for a little while after fitting but that is just any debris or oils in the silencer burning off and provided it does not continue then is of no concern. Tools required: small hacksaw, 10mm socket or spanner Possible extras: perforated metal strip and a couple of small nuts & setscrews / self tappers to securely “bracket†the silencer If fitting the exhaust causes a “low†spot in the exhaust run then a condensation drain may also be needed. It is also worth a mention that an combustion air intake filter / silencer, if not already fitted makes a huge difference to the noise level.

You are correct, but the cold water tank "feeds" the hot water tank therefore you only have a maximum of Cold tank + hot tank to begin and therefore your cold is depleted by using the hot as it tops the hot tank up. You don't really need to big a hot water tank as you can always run your engine to make more

By the way Baz, sorry for hijacking the thread, mind you some of the other discussions here are bound to give further insight into the wonderful world of heaters.

I don't think a little submersion of the outlet would be an issue whilst the heater was running Ian as the exhaust gases would keep the water out as they have quite a pressure. When not running I would think a little more care should be taken and possibly advice saught direct from webasto as water may get into the heater via the exhaust, possibly an over centre lever type garboard bung in the exhaust when under way and heeled??

That's the kiddie Ian, should keep Tamara toasty and provide all the hot water you need, seems good value too, would you use a matrix or do you have room for rads? One point, 4200 is a lot of power when you consider the cabin volume of a classic yacht and it may be a bit too toasty and you could have difficulty keeping the heat level down to comfortable without the risk of coking the burner, possibly parafin as a fuel would reduce that risk.

Couldn't agree more Dave, the water boiler ebos & webos are great, but small cruisers are not like narrowboats when it comes to wall space for rads, you can get a matrix to convert the water to hot air just like your car and have the advantage of hot water from the calorifier without running the engine. The matrix also uses the engine heat when uder way so FREE heating (now there's a word you don't often see in a post about boating). I have one in still in a box waiting to be fitted just to provide constant hot water and a heated towel rail, I think I may then remove the AT2000 and install a matrix for the hot air at a later date.

You will never regret it Baz, but if you're only going to use it occasionaly then make sure you run it at full chat for an hour or so before shutting it down or it will coke up prematurely, lag the exhaist and fit a silencer something most installations do not have, they really reduce the noise so then it will not be to obtrusive

Any decent webcam will do, just follow the instructions provided with it and BTW you will need to leave your computer turned on and broadband connected. That's a not dissimilar view to that from our widow, though the canal is a quite a bit narrower as we are in central London

Or just buy a 12v telly (most smallish LCD ones are), I found myself inverting 12v to 240v and then back down to 12v for the TV so I just cut out the "middle man".

"I'm leaning on the mooring post at the corner of the broad in case a certain little wake boarder goes by, oh me, oh my, in case a certain little wakeboarder goes by"

Turned out nice again

Unfortunately, the boating season is winding down in many parts of the country and it is time to start thinking about protecting your valuable recreational asset. Winterizing a boat reminds me of the old commercial that says "pay me now or pay me later." The time and effort you spend now will have a definite effect on your boat's performance, or lack of it, and certainly save you time, effort and money come spring. You should remember that your insurance policy may not cover damage done by lack of maintenance or neglect. Your first step in winterizing should be to make a checklist of all items that need to be accomplished. Check the owner's manual of your boat and motor(s) for manufacturer's recommendations on winterization. If you are a new boat owner, perhaps you should employ the assistance of a friend with experience in winterizing or hire a professional to do the job. The following is a general outline of areas which should be of concern to you, however, there are many resources on the Internet with more detailed and specific information. Inboard Engine(s) - You should run the engine(s) to warm it up and change the oil while it is warm. This tends to allow impurities to be drained away with the oil. You should also change the oil filter(s). Flush the engine(s) with fresh water. You should circulate antifreeze through the manifold by using a pickup hose from the waterpump to a bucket of antifreeze. Start the engine and allow the antifreeze to circulate until water starts to exit the exhaust. This process will vary slightly depending on whether you have a "Raw Water" cooling system or an "Enclosed Fresh Water" cooling system. While you're in the engine room you should also change the fluid in your transmission. Remove spark plugs and use "fogging oil" to spray into each cylinder. Wipe down the engine with an old towel sprayed with a little fogging oil or WD-40. Stern Drive(s) - You should thoroughly inspect the stern drive and remove any plant life or barnacles from the lower unit. Drain the gear case and check for excessive moisture in the oil. This could indicate leaking seals and should be repaired. Clean the lower unit with soap and water. If your stern drive has a rubber boot, check it for cracks or pinholes. Grease all fittings and check fluid levels in hydraulic steering or lift pumps. Check with your owner's manual for additional recommendations by the manufacturer. Outboard Engine(s) - Flush engine with fresh water using flush muffs or similar device attached to the raw water pickup. Let all water drain from the engine. Wash engine down with soap and water and rinse thoroughly. Disconnect fuel hose and run engine until it stops. It is important to follow a step by step process to make sure that all fuel is drained from the carburetor to prevent build-up of deposits from evaporated fuel. Use fogging oil in the cylinders to lubricate the cylinder walls and pistons. Apply water resistant grease to propeller shaft and threads. Change the gear oil in the lower unit. Lightly lubricate the exterior of the engine or polish with a good wax. Fuel - Fill your fuel tank(s) to avoid a build up of condensation over the winter months. Add a fuel stabilizer by following the instructions on the product. Change the fuel filter(s) and water separator(s). Bilges - Make sure the bilges are clean and dry. Use soap, hot water and a stiff brush to clean up any oil spills. Once the bilges are clean, spray with a moisture displacing lubricant and add a little antifreeze to prevent any water from freezing. Fresh Water System - Completely drain the fresh water tank and hot water heater. Isolate the hot water heater by disconnecting the in and out lines and connect them together. Pump a non-toxic antifreeze into the system and turn on all the taps including the shower and any wash-down areas until you see the antifreeze coming out. Also put non-toxic antifreeze in the water heater. Head - Pump out the holding tank . While pumping, add fresh water to the bowl and flush several times. Use Vanish crystals or whatever your owner's manual recommends that will not harm your system and let sit for a few minutes. Again add fresh water and pump out again. Add antifreeze and pump through hoses, holding tank, y-valve, macerator and discharge hose. Again, check your owners manual to make sure that an alcohol-based antifreeze won't damage your system. Interior - Once you have taken care of the system you should remove any valuables, electronics, string, life jackets, fire extinguishers, flares, fenders, etc. Over the winter these items can be cleaned, checked and replaced as necessary. Open all drawers and lockers and clean thoroughly. Turn cushions up on edge so that air is able to circulate around them or, better yet, take them home to a more climate controlled area. Open and clean the refrigerator and freezer. To keep your boat dry and mildew-free you might want to install a dehumidifier or use some of the commercially available odour and moisture absorber products. Out of Water Storage - pressure wash hull, clean growth off props and shafts, rudders, struts and trim tabs. Clean all seacocks and strainers. Open seacocks to allow any water to drain. Check the hull for blisters and if you find any that should be attended to you might want to open them to drain over the winter. While you're at it, why not give the hull a good wax job? It is probably best to take the batteries out of the boat and take them home and either put them on a trickle charger or charge them every 30-60 days. In Water Storage - Close all seacocks and check rudder shafts and stuffing boxes for leaks, tighten or repack as necessary. Check your battery to make sure it is fully charged, clean terminals, add water if necessary and make sure your charging system is working. Check bilge pumps to ensure they are working and that float switches properly activate the pumps and that they are not hindered by debris. Make sure either to check your boat periodically or have the marina check it and report to you. If in an area where the water you are parked in actually freezes, you should think about weather you really want to leave it in. By following some of the above suggestions, and other resources on the net, you should be in good shape for the winter. Do not, however, neglect to consult your owner's manuals for manufacture's recommendations on winterizing your boat and other systems. If you have not done a winterization job before or don't have an experienced friend to rely on seek out a professional to do the job for you

What's your un refuelled range Brian?

Theres a couple of rivers south of us which are in easy reach but if you want to explore north then it's the Wash and north Norfolk and south Lincolnshire rivers and drains, Boston, Lincoln and such, then apart from a couple of tiny drying places like Gib point, Anderby Creek and Saltfleet it's on to that most delightful of Rivers, the Humber and access to the Yorkshire rivers or go straight past to Whitby then Alnwick is nice, the Firth of Forth then up to Aberdeen, Peterhead and Buckie. But most of that is a lengthy cruise better suited to a passage making Yacht with a good crew and a locker full of Pro Plus Frankly it's quicker and you get more choice if you just head across to Belgium & Holland (4 to 6 hours on a good day) Or buy a trailer boat, something that, oddly enough I quite miss not having as an option.

Can't think of a better reason for naming a ship Perry

Ahh, the famous Grimsby Fish dock lock cill, now I see, you had me scared for a minute there Jill, I thought somebody had been chucking extra sand bars in whilst I was not looking

Best DIY tip I was ever given is always allow at least a day for that "hour or so" job

Which bar is that Jill?, in all the years I ran out of GY I never found one exept upstream towards Immingham and New Holland

Have to see if I can find something Kieth, I know the 4 - 195 is Kubota based but not sure about the 4-190

If you stay on the Broads then there is one called, odly enough, broads antifoul which is designed for the fresh to brackish conditions we have. IIRC it is a blakes product.

Might be useful if peeps posted requests for any manuals they be be looking for, somebody may have them or know where to get the.