Antares_9

Steve, I see no reason to worry about 10 feet, many larger vessels have an even longer run with no problems, indeed our own boat has a run of about the same. Make sure you use double clipped odourless sanitation hose with sealer at the joints and take the opportunity to put in a good size breather pipe (about 35mm) or possibly one each side to encourage cross flow of air as the best anti smell additive you can put in your tank is oxygen. It is probably a good idea to renew your Joker valve at the time to assist with restricting back flow of fluids and odour. As you are starting with a new tank you may wish to consider ditching the use of any of any chemical additives at all as a correctly installed tank should not need it. :-D :-D A useful link http://www.leesan.co.uk/index.php An even more useful one http://www.tek-tanks.com/marine_sanitation.html

Looks like somebody’s been taking Poppy’s tag line a bit too literally. :-D

Gets a bit busy out there most times Ian, live AIS link for you :-D http://www.aisliverpool.co.uk/currentmap.php?map=thamesrhine

THe big caravan place, not sure about the name, Yarmouth caravans? but it's on the opposite side of the river to Gt. Y yacht station should have something to suit Jill :-D

That's like something from Edward Lear or Lewis Carol Ian :-D :-D :-D

Well, went with the current model (S2 Gyro) and got a really good deal, after looking at it on the Raymarine stand there is not much difference in the new model and they will not be available for a few months anyway. I agree about the oft used Beta testing by paying customers practice used by some suppliers but can't really believe Raymarine would do it with what is essentially a critical on board system.

I think you're right Perry, the only thing I can imagine that would sway me is if the new one is NMEA2000 (seatalk 2) compatible so I can plug it in. Obvously the current model will interface with the C series on plain seatalk 2 so even that wouldn't be a huge bonus. :-D

I spend nearly a year researching, planning the fit and deciding on the most appropriate autopilot, make the decision to source one at the boat show and what do Raymarine do? They go and announce a new model to be launched at said boat show, that’s what they do. Still if it has no really significant advantages over the current gyro enhanced model I think I will stick with my decision, who knows it may mean some good deals on the “run out†models.

Not paying attention Jonny, 15k sounds a bit more like it, teach me to look properly before opening my mouth, comments on the boat itself however remain as before so with the value for money reservation out of the way it would be a good buy if it has been properly refitted. I once had an Shetland Alaska 600 fast fisher and that thing could take a hell of a pounding (frequently did ) We had a Kestrel with a 75hp hanging off the back and that was a well screwed together piece of kit, It's quite a matter of amusement between me and R that at boat shows there's always a number of people, including us, nostalgicly hanging around the Shetland stand saying stuff like "our first boat" "wasn't it well made" "didn't we have some great times" etc.

Shetland are a well made boat Brian and the Black Prince makes good use of it’s space, age is less important than condition but even at 24k ( a bit over priced IMHO) she would need a good survey. The Isuzu / GM 1.7 block used in those engines is the same as the Astra and many other cars. There were a few issues with it when they squeezed 150hp out of th poor little bugger but the 120 was fairly trouble free. The leg would be the Alpha 1 gen II which are pretty long lived provided they are looked after and service parts are readily available at sensible money. I would want to check that the rewire was done with fully tinned marine grade cable at least in the vulnerable areas and that good quality cable is used in other areas with the terminal ends properly crimped and sealed against moisture. Finally, if that boat will do 25kts with a 120 ands full cruising kit, a normal family on board then I would be a bit surprised, a sea trial would be essential.

Yes that should be fine Jonny, you can always get the last drops out with a hand pump or just leave it there, but if you do it might start to niff a bit unless you add a drop of bilge sweetener You may be able to adjust the internal float switch or sensor and leave it where it is but if you are not confident doing that then raising the whole unit will have the same effect.

Sorry, forgot to mention, unless you get a “constant contact†switch then NEVER (emergency electrical short fire or risk of fire excepted) operate it with the engine running as this can damage the alternator.

Do you propose to use an Off, 1, 2, both switch Frank? if that is the case thewiring is very simple, battery 1 cable goes to battery one terminal, battery 2 cable to battery 2 terminal and the main feed comes off the final terminal. Always a good idea to wire the bilge pump and any vital kit (VHF etc) direct to a battery though.

Still available Gordon, and not too expensive, https://www.europaspares.com/HEATERS_and_DEMISTERS/DUCTING__VALVES__and_HOSE/CABLE_OPERATED_WATER_VALVE___COWV__2126.html Loads of heating & ventilation parts including purpose designed matrix for projects like this. The major difficulty with adding a matrix to a raw water cooled system will always be the amount of heat available as they tend to run cooler than a closed system and also a petrol will usually run cooler than a diesel.

You and yours have a good Yuletide too Paul, see you in 2008 if the sea don't rise. David :santawave: :santawave:

Paul, I can see the attraction, fuel source already present etc. BUT neither Eberspacher nor Webasto are keen on petrol furnaces in boats, in fact they specifically advise against, and neither offer petrol fired marine kits. In a car or other road vehicle where the heater is “open to atmosphere†they are happy but not in any enclosed space. A diesel one with a 2 to 5 gallon tank (run it on paraffin if you prefer) is the way to go. That's the official line, however I guess if one were to pull the combustion air in through a sealed pipe like the exhaust from outside the boat then it might be safe enough. My personal advice, go with a diesel fired one and run it on either diesel or paraffin, the consumption is miniscule and even a couple of gallons will last ages. BSS, better ask and inspector or the BSS office, though I can guess the answer will be based on the manufacturers advice on what is appropriate for marine usage.

More fun doing it yourself Ian. :-D

Nice job Ian, you do know Webo make a bulkhead fitting for exhausts?, consists of a 100mm S/S disc containing a large heat resistant grommet, doesn't look as nice as your bespoke jobbie though and it's always more satisfying to make bits yourself if you have the skills and the kit. :-D

Bit lumpy out there Perry, you wouldnt have many fillings left after that. Mind you, it gets worse on Breydon, or so I've heared :

Goodness me I just googled lakesailored and up it came

Makes a change from being "Lakesailored" Perry. :-D

Bilge pump should not run unless there is a leak or the switch is faulty (unlikely or it would run constantly), find the leak and fix it, could be leaky stern gland, there should only be an occasional drip even if it's the old fashioned stuffing box type, if outdrive could be a boot or gimble housing leak, if wooden boat then it could be caulking. if it only happens when the boat is running then it could be a raw water leak from the coolant. Give us a bit more on the boat info and we may be able to pin it down :-D :-D

Sadly you missed out Rayners Lane and approached from the south, it's an easy mistake to make. Tim did it only last week and if Samantha hadn’t noticed him “going south†it would have won.

Ascendo tuum Papaver

No Perry, just seeing how much damage it was possible to do before somebody noticed, normal cat stuff