Antares_9

I think my view on the BSC is already known, so where's that "bite your tongue" emoticon, you have my sympathy, it's always been my view that a proper full insurance survey would have far more value.

Steve, if you spend the vast majority of the time and particularly are moored well upstream the Mag are probably best for performance. It is quite important to keep an eye on them ‘till you see how they last though as if there is any stray current (electrical not water flow) in your marina they they may dissolve quicker than you may expect, in which case you may want to use Ali. Instead, or better still get the marina to sort the problem or fit a galvanic isolator, underwater bits and pieces being eaten away is not something that is too prevalent on the Broads as far as I am aware but better safe than sorry especially when it comes to through hull fittings, even though they may not be directly protected by anodes it is wise to have them boded to the rest of the system.

Expect a case of Mr. Autoglym’s finest products in the mail after that endorsement Perry, She looks even better in the flesh. :-D

"Galvanic corrosion (we used to call it electrolysis) can damage or destroy the under water metal parts of your boat. When two different metals touch each other or are wired together and are then immersed in an electrolytic medium (in most cases it’s water with minerals in it, such as salt) an electro-chemical reaction can/does occur. In other words, you have just created a battery that has measurable current running between the two dissimilar metals and causing galvanic corrosion. One of the metals (the “least nobleâ€[i.e more easily dissolved] metal, called the anode) will start to corrode/dissolve much faster than it normally would do so because of this electrical current. Simultaneously, the other metal (the “most noble†[i.e. a more difficult to dissolve] metal, called the cathode) will corrode/dissolve much more slowly. For example: A stainless steel shaft is less noble than the bronze propeller attached to it. Therefore as a result of galvanic corrosion, the shaft would begin to dissolve leaving the prop intact. So, how do we prevent this problem of galvanic corrosion? The most common way of dealing wit it is to use a simple, inexpensive device called a sacrificial anode. The sacrificial anode is a piece of metal that is less noble than any other metal found on the boat and is mounted or wired to one of the existing underwater metal parts, such as the rudder or shaft. By bolting a sacrificial anode to the stainless steel shaft or rudder, the two metals form a galvanic couple (isn’t that romantic). With this configuration in place, the anode will dissolve allowing the shaft, rudder, etc. to remain intact and in good shape. The effectiveness of an anode depends on a good electrical connection/bond and plenty of surface area on the anode. So as the anode corrodes/dissolves away, its surface area and its effectiveness diminishes. To ensure its effective protection, I recommend replacing an anode when it is about ½ dissolved. If you let the sacrificial anode dissolve completely, other expensive metal parts will take the place of the sacrificial anode and start to corrode away. Sacrificial anodes are usually made out of Zinc, Aluminum or Magnesium. Zinc is considered the best metal for salt water applications, while Magnesium is considered the best for fresh water usage. For salt and brackish water, Aluminum is usually recommended. So, there you have it, the lowdown on galvanic corrosion. Put on those sacrificial anodes and replace them as often as needed for maximum protection. If you don’t, your situation may turn out to be, “Plop, plop, fizz, fizz, oh what a disaster it is!†"

Not really a good idea, one of the things that defines a lead acid battery’s life is the number of discharge / recharge cycles (especially deeper discharges) it is subjected to. You would artificially shorten it’s life by doing that.

Hi Baz, the fact that you have water exiting the exhaust unfortunately does not really tell me much, both raw water and indirect cooling would do that, the only one that wouldn’t is closed loop keel cooling and even that may have raw water injected to cool the manifold and exhaust. Look for anything where you may have to “top up†the coolant, normally mounted on the engine itself. If there is one then it is indirect cooling. You will need to check the anti freeze strength for the winter if that is the case. My original question was because if it is indirect and you begin to get overheating then you may have some weed or straw in the heat exchanger and you may need to gently rod it out.

Interesting, I must have a word with Alan or Sue, they should have some info on the history. There was certainly a basin there of the fetid dyke variety for a very long time before the “marina properâ€

Oi, I was looking at those pictures

Do you have just the crystals as opposed to a ready mixed gel like Y10 or similar? If so then mix a good strong solution in warm water, then add some wallpaper paste as that will help it cling to the surface. On GRP there is no need to neutralise the solution with Borax, just rinse off with copious quantities of water, then wash and rinse again with an alkaline detergent. Usual caveats as to handling apply, follow the instructions on the pack. As you don't mention the material the panels are made of I have assumed GRP, but the method for teak is similar.

Baz, there is no reason that fitting a weed strainer will restrict the flow and cause loss of cooling, it really depends where the boat was originally commissioned as some places are relatively weed free and the fitting may have been thought unnecessary. A couple of questions, is your boat raw water cooled or via a heat exchanger and a closed system. If you fit one make sure it is tapped into the line before the gearbox cooler or any oil cooler that may be fitted.

My earlier post is cobblers, I pulled up a "historic picture" the live one shows a much more worying scenario. Sorry

http://www.rnsyc.org.uk/ Webcam at Royal Norfolk ans Suffolk Yacht Club shows a much more benign picture, looks like it's getting away quite nicely now, but who knows what tonight may bring

Hi Keith, the difference in performance by recirculating the cabin air will be quite noticeable, I guarantee, the next most efficient modification that really improves the output at the vents is lagging the ducting. The combustion air intake can be left in the bilge as obviously the colder that is the better as obviously cold air carries more oxygen and improves the combustion. Also you may find this http://www.mikuniheating.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=69&pg=1 useful

Good advice Keith, and run it flat out too, like most stuff on boats lack of use is the biggest enemy

They are not normally unreliable Jonny, there a thousands of them around happily roaring away, in the main the problems I have come across are user related, poor fitting or lack of maintainance, mostly on the power supply side and thats the first thing I go for, don't often have to look much further.

Hi Keith, Even the Webasto and Webo ones (combined timer and target heat unit) though they look amost identical are different and will not operate except on their own manufacturers heater, though they will operate 12v and 24v heaters with just a bulb change. The timers alone are another matter and it is possible to use them across the board if you use the right trigger wire,If you have a wirng diag or schematic for the Mikuni I will be able to suggest something, if not I'll see if I can source one and have a peruse. The Mikuni timer price is about the same as a Webo or Ebo one would cost from a dealer assuming it is also a temp control.

Yes, it will still work Pete but the following conponents will not last nearly as long as they should. 1) glow pin 2) glow pin screen Also you will get a higher battery drain from constant "cold" sarts and the unit will also coke up more quickly.

Pete, be careful with that kind of modification, you could be storing up problems, the rotary control is not in fact a thermostat and has no thermistor properties but a simple potentiometer which gives a resistance value to the board, using a “make and break†thermostat can cause problems as the unit is not designed to run in an on / off manner. The temperature sensor is either inside the heater (for small recirculated air installations) or on a cabin mounted extension (for installations using outside air or if the heater intake is a long way from where you would like the temperature sensed). The heater should run constantly, the potentiometer sets the “target†temperature with it’s resistance value and the heater runs on full until that is almost reached, it then reduces output until the “target†temperature is achieved, it then reduces further to maintain that temperature, very rarely actually shutting down completely as it would with a household make and break thermostat switch. If you want a separate starter switch by your bunk the it is better to use the earth pulse lead which is designed for just that purpose and also takes a signal from a key fob or mobile ‘phone starter. :-D :-D

Just a thought John, but are there any plant hire companies near you, plant engines are often similar ratings to marine engines and they may have a bit of bulk oil they could sell you. David

I find Hungarians are better, have you tried one. :-D

Rachel's always on at me to improve my tackle, is their a list?

Insurance is not an issue provided there is no element of reward Julia, they wil just be passangers like any other.

No help from mme on that Pete, I've been looking for a reliable source for years. Oh, and it also works in wardrobes and cupboards agaist a cold wall at home too, yours truly, Barry Bucknell.

If you have problems with damp and condensation in wardrobes / lockers, fitting vents can sometimes help but often gives little improvement. If you use a PSU cooling fan from a scrap computer or buy a new one for a few pounds and mount it on the top vent this can and does give a remarkable improvement due to the better air circulation. If you have shore power and leave your batteries on charge then it can be left running when you are not on board, they are quiet, the power consumption is miniscule and they are of course 12v. Tools required: appropriate hole saw, basic tool kit and drill / bits. Skills required: comon sense and basic 12v wiring knowlege.

If it's a BMC diesel then I guess something like Rotella would do the job nicely, most commercial places will do some cheap I am sure. I can't really see the point in using a straight weight when there are so many high quality multi viscosity products out there, its not exactly a V12 racing engine after all.