Antares_9

I researched hiring but no go when we had our A1 I did have all that kit but gave some of it away when we sold Genji Ian, the expander is only needed to pull the exhaust bellows on and they can be done without, you really need the gear change cable socket too, I may have the hinge pin tool and cable socket somewhere, I will have a search, you only need the gimble bearing puller if you intend to replace the bearing which is not usually required if it has been greased regularly. One recommendation, only buy genuine Mercruiser boots as the Sierra aftermarket ones are the devil's own job to fit, get the right bellows adhesive too and make sure all is clean. Also it makes lighter work if you seperate the lower drive first so you have less weight to manipulate.

That looks like a nicely arranged pile of wood indeed, from the photo' at least. Very nice.

Shouldn't that be Lose women ARE far more entertaining Brian?

And the price is................. crackers, so neither Perry or I will be partaking, you could easily buy a nearly new small Shetland or similar for the cost of these so it's back to the gennie idea.

I have been waiting for one that uses an existing onboard fuel source instead of methanol, looks like it's here Perry :-D :-D

Pot winches, trawl winch pumps, bow thrusters pumps all tend to whine but when you are working it’s not so important, on a leisure boat it’s a different story. You could possibly reduce it a bit but not completely. I would suggest some really good soundproofing, it is really surprising how good it is if you get quality stuff, we have 225hp roaring away right under our feet and you can still hold a conversation at speed but just lift one of the soundproofed hatches and it’s like being at a Quo concert. Obviously it is important to ensure it’s not any bearings whining, either engine, hydraulic pump or shaft first. BTW, you are sure it's not your turbo or supercharger kicking in ?? :-D

Poor old Tammy, she's going to be sitting 2" lower in the water this season :-D

Not something I would want to do, that's the idea of having yor own boat, nobody else has ever used it, I'm sure you will understand when i quote "precious" :-D :-D

No, agricultural fuel and fuel used for plant will remain at the same duty levels. In fact so will red diesel used for heating or genny on a boat, I am just about to fit a 225hp Webasto

Hi Neil, A bit controversial, but I’ve never subscribed to the “addiction†theory, my rationale is as follows: The only reason that an engine will not start, exceptionally low temperature, bad fuel or a long lack of use apart is that there is a fault and that could be anything from, electrics, poor spray pattern, glow pin(s) to loss of compression. People tend to use either to start and it is a quick fix, "hooray that was easy", then continue to use it without repair, and as the fault remains, the engine still needs the either and appears "addicted". If the fault(s) was/were investigated, diagnosed and rectified there would be no further need of either. If the fault is repaired then the “addiction†is cured.

Don't think a heating element has a start up surge Perry, they only generate heat from being a resistor after all so I guess the resistance would remain prety constant. Any proper elecktrickery peeps know if that is the case?

Thinking about our own power requirements I checked on the wattage of the small marine immersion heaters fitted to most calorifiers and it is 750W so it is doable for one of the smaller Hondas.

Loch Lomond ??

Bunch off cissies, ther're using the Cali. so not really even a round Britain race

"Ideal for use on 33 – 44ft boats.", nothing like having something in reserve Ian :-D :-D

No, managed to rerieve the text: Thanks for your replies, Brian obviuosly my written english is poor - the thruster is now 5 yrs old! Now where did i put that comma? Paul not a bad idea but i hope you are wrong! JohnT Sorry John, missed the comma, your written English is clearly better than my eyesight, the rest however still applies.

John, sorry, I inadvertently and irretrievably deleted your post whilst replying to your message.

Hi John, the first place to start looking is the people who fitted it unless it was a DIY job, in which case: Does it have a dedicated battery of adequate capacity, it should have, as this at least appears to be a voltage related issue and only on one side I would be looking at resistances, starting with the low current side including switch or joystick, connectors and cabling all the way to the high amperage relay and then check the large power cables, are the adequate for the run, are the connections well made to each terminal. As this is a new installation I doubt ant corrosion has built up on the connections but still best make sure they are all bright. Perhaps a quick spray of switch cleaner in the operating switch wouldn’t hurt, but then again shouldn’t be needed as it’s so new.

Could be the Thames come to that. :-D :-D

I wonder if a more practical solution could be foud to acertain the suitability of a particular piece of kit. Maybe one could hire one for a weekend, load it using all the scenarios :-D and see if it copes.

Not convinced about the logic there, it may only require say, 350 watts to start (which the 800 would provide but the 300 would not), the only thing that can be reasonably deduced from that experiment is that it would require between (say) 320 and 800 watts to start, I would venture to suggest that as the 300w nearly coped that it would be toward the lower end of that range :-D None of the above says that you are wrong, simply that the experiment does not prove the conclusion :-D :-D

Hi Ian, if you're going for a good quality compact easy fit why not look at an all in one battery charger, with propper 3 stage and float, ring main connection in an easy to fit unit and designed for marine use. As far as I am aware even the marine stuff is not really designed for "wet" areas so you may have to look at industrial factory process kit if that's what you're after.

LPG conversions were very popular for a period on large engined petrol boats and there was an explosion (no pun intended) in marina refuelling points in conjunction with Calor in an attempt to promote it’s use. That has now dwindled with more refuelling stations closing and the network is now a shadow of what it was two or three years ago. The economy was found litre for litre to be a little below petrol boats but the overall cost was of course cheaper, the conversion costs were anything IIRC from about £1200.00 to £3000.00 which of course had to be recouped before any cost benefit could be felt which meant only boats doing high hours could really justify it. The dory you have seen may fall into that category as they are of course very popular work platforms. The issue with using them on the broads as I see it is that they normally need to start on petrol and then switch to LPG and though the BSS would accept LPG as a fuel source they were not so accommodating to duel fuel engines so unless they have changed that rule it’s a no go anyway. Other advantages of LPG are longer engine life due to fewer acids, extended oil changes due to less contamination by the fuel and of course lower pollution.

As I understand it, you have a duty to maintain the vessel in a state that would comply with the BSS between certificates, therefore if the job is done or at least certified by a C.O.R.G.I. regisered fitter then that would seem to comply and there should be no need to re test.

Jonny, the skin fitting for the potable water tank overflow (breather)should exit through the topsides at a level just above the top of the tank. The shower will need a pump to get the water high enough to exit through a skin fitting as the shower tray is almost certainly below or only slightly above the waterline. Is it a problem?, only if you can't live with it Is it normal?, absolutely not in my experience