Antares_9

Mmm, might need to invest in a new lappie soon, Flossy four paws has been playing "kitten on the keyboard" and has ripped the buttons off of some letters, fortunately, unimportant ones so I'll live with it for a bit

http://www.autogasmarine.com/ :-D :-D

Ohhh. not going up there, my charts only say "Dragons be here" for that area, also, where's the decent pub, and how do you expect to get on the staithe, it's always booked by school parties? Brian, for goodness sake where's that TIC emoticon

I can see where you’re coming from Gordon, but many boats are of a different design which would ship loads more water before it overflowed and also though Broads based and therefore come within the BSS remit make sea trips and I can assure you that whilst 4 or 500lbs of water on a calm river would not be an issue, just imagine it being sloshed about your engine room affecting stability with the boat pitching and rolling and then imagine you have to get rid of that before you even start to make any headway on the stuff that’s still coming in. Personally I prefer a pump that starts to get rid of it at the source of ingress. Mind you it’s a bit of false comfort anyway as most pumps will not clear enough even if you have only an 1 ½ “ hole below the waterline. "The best bilge pump in the world is a frightened man with a big bucket"

You can satisfy the BSS (or at least the spirit of it) and have a pump in the engine bay, you need to fit a hydrocarbon filter, I got one as I am most unhappy about the BSS attitude in that area for the reasons Simon points out, might even get around to fitting it one day. :-D :-D

Bit more info needed Barry, shaft drive, stern drive hydro, outboard? :-D

Please see attached, about 1500 to 2000 UKP as a DIY project :-D http://www.webasto.co.uk/am/graphics/file_brochure_boat_water_heater_uk_2005_198kb.pdf

Indeed Barry, but no point in cutting a bigger hole than you need :-D

Absolutely nothing to stop anybody John apart from a sense of decency and honesty, particularly as HMCE preferred option is to keep red and just tax leisure boats at the full rate for it. Anybody who does however will be stealing from ME and YOU, not the government, they have no money of their own, it's all ours and if I hear of anybody stealing from me or you I will shop them. One option is to keep everything as it is and put us all on trust to report our usage and send in the money on an annual basis whilst keeping red at the same price at the point of sale, this is a preferred option by many remote marinas and those that serve commercial users and leisure users. There are many issues apart from simple pricing here.

There is a formula Barry, if you check how many CFM of air your motor uses, Peachment should be able to tell you, I will work it out for you. David

Barry, It's coupled up to and displayed on a Raymarine C120 multi display via an onboard NMEA 2000 network, the engine data is fed direct from the ECU via a J1939 can bus to NMEA 2000 converter. I forget which GPS engine feeds the C120 as I have 2 for safety redundancy, one feeds the C120 Radar / Plotter Multi display and the other feeds a dedicated chart plotter so it could be a Ray 120 or a Ray 125 GPS engine that it is ultimately serviced by. Flipin' 'eck, looking at what I have just typed, it's a wonder it works at all. David

Get yerself a hearse G.T. Simon, 130mph, 2 services and 2 tyres in 42 months from new, total cost about £1200 and 45mpg and close to 1900 litres of room in the back for your boaty kit.

Barry, the major difference between red and white (colour apart) is the sulphur content, hence we will actually be taxed MORE than white road diesel when the derogation ends as the ultra low sulphur diesel at road pumps attracts a lower "green" tax than the higher sulphur diesel. Now with that out of the way, it is likely that we will continue to get red at the waterside pumps abate at the higher tax rate (currently 7p above ULSD. This I suspect will lead to lower quantity users filling from Jerry cans at Tesco prices rather than pay the £1.50 to £2.00 per litre that will possibly be the norm in marinas and riverside yards. But I digress, ULSD may well harm some of the older engines on the broads as the sulphur lubricates the injector pump (not unlike lead used to protect valve seats on older engines pre unleaded) Your more modern engine should run OK on ULSD, mine common rail D4 Volvo actually allows longer oil change intervals if it is used, but check with the manufacturer. This all may be academic anyway as what we will probably be getting at the pumps is the same as now, just more expensive “same as nowâ€. Hope that wasn’t all to tedious and spun out. Edited as I forgot to say that at river speeds of 6mph even our D4 230hp still returns 10 - 12 mpg confirmed by the gps linked fuel computer and I am one happy bunny. even at cruising speed at sea (18kts) she only burns 8 or 9 ish GPH depending on the sea state. attachment=0]Image002.jpg[/attachment]

Oh yes I remember, you sure some wag hasn't set the computer to read in U.S. MPG I did it on our hearse G.T. to see what would happen and got a similar result. Except for the having to fill up earlier bit that is. :-D

What car and what engine is it Simon.

Well, if sensitive enough to sense a "HEAD OF WATER" then they should be OK but I'm not familiar with them.

One bit of general advice Mike, when you get it fixed, stay off the coachroof where practical, there's nothing worse for stressing window frames on boats with large glass areas (apart from a good force 8 that is )

Yes, they are the ones Steve, just make sure you get the right heat output for the job, too little and you will not get enough heat, too much and it will be constantly cycling at low power, and they like to be run at higher output to keep the internal carbon levels down.

Steve, because of your current installation you have another option, you can simply plumb a Webo or Ebo water heater into the current system which will give you the best of both worlds, free heat on the move and heating / hot water when moored from the Webo or Ebo, it would be a simple job and less work than fitting a new system from sctatch.

I’m sure it can be arranged in the technical section, unless you would preffer it in a more general area, if I may proffer a little advice, buy a large box of Elastoplast as the first part of the restoration and a case of pride and satisfaction now to “lay down†for the completion, you will have earned it. I eagerly await developments and wish you good luck. :-D :-D :-D :-D

Rightly so Jill, you can find a complete tool kit for free with a good magnet, a good investment, and you can make pretty patterns with iron filings and a piece of glass too. :-D :-D

Sadly Jill, non ferous tank, though I agree magnets are helpful when working with ferous material.. :-D :-D

Plenty of Vasaline or non toxic grease on a GOOD quality hole saw, go slowly, clean the swarf and Vaso off 3 or 4 times during the process and fit a strainer inline before the water pump and you will be fine :-D :-D

Have done it in the past Paul, the biggest thing to watch for is that the matrix is sited below the header tank on the engine or you will have to fit a swirl pot or similar just a bit higher than the matrix to prevent constant air locks and for checking levels. It is most effective and best of all, free at the point of use. You can either have just the matrix and fan or slightly more complicated, a matrix with 65mm or 80mm outlets (new or coach breaker) and use Ebo or Webo hot air ducting to split the air distribution. All of the above is assuming indirect cooling, raw water cooled engines often run at lower temp and therefore make it less efficient and the matrix is more likely to become fouled with cast scale from the engine galleries.

Anything immersed in the solution should be protected so if it is too small for it’s own anode then it is best bonded.