mbird

I think you've got quite enough names already Adam

Easter will do fine thanks Luke!

Mine are 14 and 8 Wayne. I hear teenage girls mature faster though

They're needed to make that tractor juice go bang None of that "just add a spark" malarkey. This needs SCIENCE !

Your a bit smaller than me Luke, so you should be able to reach it as I can, but it will be under the rear of the cockpit floor. I'm not sure of the relevance of that particularly though, as if the raw water pump is hot, there can't be any water going through it, so it stands to reason the pipe entering the exhaust elbow will also be hot. The problem must be the impellor or a blockage (or air lock) as no water is getting through the pump. Ok, another silly thought. When the new impellor was installed, was it put in the right way, so the vanes are compressed in the right direction? The manual states the impellor should be installed with a clockwise rotating movement. This is to ensure the vanes are compressed i nthe right direction in the pumping part of the housing, otherwise when it turns, they will be pushing rather than pulling.

One well earned Lakesailer for moi from Leroy methinks

The important bit will be there then, mate (Don't tell your boat I said that!)

Ah, found a sketch of the exhaust elbow as it exits the turbo. scan.pdf

No Luke, A is the thermostat housing, and B I think is probably something to do with your supercharger? (not sure on that one as I ain't got them on my lumps!). Assuming your engines aren't too dissimilar to mine, the exhaust elbow will be at the back of the engine, and bee a steel pipe about 4" diameter. It will have a smaller pipe going into the top of it, which is where the raw water exiting the heat exchanger will be injected into the exhaust gases before they go out through the transom shield and out to the outdrive.

Luke, when you say the impellor was "pumping normally", how much water got ejected? When I mistakenly tried to winterise our engines by pouring antifreeze into the weed filter (like I used to on the BMC in our old boat), even when just being cranked, the water shot out of the top of the strainer by about a foot! Just as a bit of lateral thinking, might be worth raising the leg on the affected side and see if there is a plastic bag or anything obvious like a pair of Cols' pants, stuck over the water intake (which is at the front of the leg. inline with the propellors).

Hi Jim As long as your pump is pressurising the system when a tap is opened to "push" the water out, I can't see a problem, as the pump would pressurise the middle tank which would force cold water into the calorifier, and thereby push the hot water from the calorifier to the open tap. However, going back to the old caravan days when they had microswitches on the taps, some of them used to "suck" the water out of the tank, which I guess would be a totally different kettle of bananas. It might be worth just making sure!

Eh? I never said anything?

Daft suggestion time ..... The header tank isn't for raw water is it?

It'll go BOOM!

I can only assume they have revised their recommendations Ian. The scopes I mentioned above are from the RYA Powerboating Handbook I bought at LIBS. I was a bit surprised, as I thought it was 3x for chain too!

We're not really planning it at the moment, but eldest son is keen to try a spot of fishing for something he can eat. From what I've read, 30m chain in 10m of water seems barely enough? The RYA recommend 4x depth for chain only and 6x for chain/warp. I had assumed for emergency type deployment that about 60m total (as David has also mentioned) would be about the right amount.

Blimey, that looks a bit complicated. An eye splice in 3 strand I can do, but I think I'll let Norfolk Marine do that for me!

How much chain/warp would you expect to be about right for this area? I dropped all the chain out of my locker today to see what I actually had, and have got 30m of chain, which was bolted hard and fast to the boat. I would have thought this wasn't really enough, so I intend to get some warp spliced onto it. What size warp (I've heard nylon is best as it sinks and is stretchy) and what sort of length should I be thinking of?

Serenity - Confirmed

What do you put in a grab bag, Jonathan?

As I have never plotted a course, or planned a passage, I will be on a very steep learning curve. I'll have my laptop with the plotter software and GPS dongle, and a Garmin eTrex. I will need taking through it in "idiot speak", if one of you kind experienced salty types can help ..... pleeeeeease! Would we be best to do this at a "briefing" on the Friday evening at Lowestoft maybe?

I'm going to hire the Northern rivers for a few days, so there'll be no other buggers about

Hope to, Trev!

Hi All With the stainless steel arch which carries out nav lights and horns atop the radar arch in place, we have an air draft of 10'-2". I had the big idea of trying to get the thing hinged to gain a bit of clearance, and took my sketch design to F W Hall and Sons in Norwich. A couple of weeks later, here is the result! By doing this we have saved over 12" of head room, which should help make those passages through Yarmouth a little less restrictive I reckon they did a nice job, considering even the hinge itself was fabricated from scratch!