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WOOD GURO REQUIRED


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Oxalic acid will bleach it out, the tricky part is in then recoating it without the varnish soaking in unevenly into the area dried out by the acid.

 

You need to first seal the surface with something that doesn't soak in and darken the wood more than the surrounding area.

 

I was successful with International's "UCP" primer a few times, but it's tricky to be consistent.

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for the best results to address this use a very good french polisher who knows his onions they can do this easy and match it etc it that filed 

 

the antiques trade know what to do how to sort out such issues 

 

 

all sort sorts chemical like proper wood bleaches to oxalic acid then pigments to correct colours, sealer from single pack/two pack .alchol based ,water based and pre cat types etc etc 

 

grain filler ,woode sealer ,selalc sealer coloured and self colours to 

 

oil varnish s heat rest sellers and both and all types or lacquers gloss to semai matts etc etc etc arghh phew the list goes on and on..................bored now ...........

if yer want it rite use the man who can 

 

if yer want a risk and do it yer self 

 

if yer wiling to give it a goo do it ,if yer want it rite ...................nooo

 

 

diy ...don,t envolve yer self ................ :naughty:

 

either way let us know how yer get on as we all like to hear the out come of all stories and info ....wel i do...................orf to work bye..

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It's called Blue stain in service, and is a pig to get out, get an expert to have a go as it may be quite deep and need a fair amount of sanding if a french polisher can't get it out. The wrong process of chemicals could make the stain much harder to deal with for the expert.

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Progress report!

i ve stripped the table top with nitromoors ,  it,s revealed a coffin blow for the finish , the water has rotted the veneer to the point that a small amount of it was missing altogether! i think i need a rethink!  it may even get painted, or sticky back plastic!!

 

post-230-0-06245300-1421350253_thumb.jpg

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Hello Diesel Falcon,

 

It might be an idea to remove the old veneer and replace with a new veneer sheet/sheets, not for the faint hearted but if your boat does have a lot of teak it may be worth it.

 

I would try to remove it with a damp cloth and iron or a steam iron, the idea is to soften the glue that is holding the veneer in place.

 

You could of course try using some wood bleach to get a more uniform colour and then fill the missing veneer with some wood stopper (teak if you can find it) . If you can get a good overall colour then you can stain it and give the top a polish.

 

I have had very good results with many thin coats of Danish Oil allowing to dry between each coat.

 

Regards

Alan

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If it's that far gone, it may be simpler and better to accurately cut a new top from teak faced marine ply.

 

It should be possible to remove the original edge mouldings and transfer them to the new piece.

 

Tim Collin at Hoveton stocks a very wide range of sheet materials and hardwoods, teak, mahogany, cherry etc., and is the local supplier to many very high quality boat building firms. He's still very approachable though, gives great advice, and will happily sell a single sheet, searching through the stack with you.

 

It will have to be a full 8x4 sheet, but probably cheaper overall than employing a skilled professional restorer, and the rest of the sheet may come in useful with the boat.

 

A few years back I replaced the internal cabinet work in a wheelhouse using a sheet of teak faced 15mm marine  ply from him, it cost over £60, but it was a beautiful piece of wood, and transformed the interior.

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