thecrossinn Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Can I use the modern synthetic oil I use in my car or do I need something less technical (expensive)? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JawsOrca Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Should be ok.. it's the ratings that matter though i.e 10/40 etc ..which you will have to google though unless someone comes along with the rating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BroadScot Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Found this....... SAE 30 or SAE 10/40 std mineral oil is better suited. Iain. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JawsOrca Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Lol I wonder where you found that Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BroadScot Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Google! Alan lol Iain 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuffaloBill Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Just to add to the comments here. As an ex fitter who has worked on these engines for many years, what I can offer in advice is that if the engine is in really good condition, and I do mean really good, then 15/40 mineral oil is the way to go. If the engine rattles a bit and smokes for too long on initial start-up in the warmer months, then use 20/50 mineral oil, say like Q20/50. This is slightly thicker and helps a worn engine but the downside is that it will turn over slower on really cold start-ups, say after a frost, and will suck the starter battery down trying to turn the engine over. There is nothing to be gained by using synthetic or semi-synthetic on these engines. (I had one in my last boat by-the-way). Just change the oil and filter at the start of the season and again at the end when laying up for the winter, if you do that is. Keep on top of checking the tappet clearance and clean air filter and oil changes and it will last a lifetime. (My BMC had only 1200hrs on it when I sold her) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finny Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 I wouldn't go down the synthetic route and personally I think you could be opening a can of worms in doing so ,I did many trails with oil on my old BMC over the years some very well known names burnt more than plenty .funnily enough the best mineral oil I found that suited was the cheapest and that was Comma 10/50 ,comma state it was designed for the older worn Diesel engine . No smoke and a dip stick level that never moved Finny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thecrossinn Posted July 1, 2015 Author Share Posted July 1, 2015 Many thanks to all for your replies. Regards Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveRolaves Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 check out Shell Helix 10/40 oil on e Bay in the yellow containers - price is good at about £20 for 5 lit.and with free postage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thecrossinn Posted July 1, 2015 Author Share Posted July 1, 2015 Thanks for that Dave. Regards Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanetAnne Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 My engine manual suggests either a straight 30 or a multigrade 20/50. Dont forget that when many of our BMC's were being built multigrade oils were readily available and so would be included in the recommended list. A multigrade will perform better across the temperature ranges whereas a single grade may not offer full protection at the extremes of temperatures but will perform better at the optimum running temperature. More modern oils, especially the synthetics and semi synthetics, will have a higher detergent content which ensures clean modern engines but may not be as wise in older units. Just a good old drop of something not too technical and we are happy. Here's my new engine, do you reckon the rangers will be able to keep up? :naughty: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BroadScot Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Looking at that engine JA perhaps your builders should fit a mast and some flappy cloth up top, just to be on the safe side Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanetAnne Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 (edited) it looks better now Iain Edited July 1, 2015 by BroadScot Deleted double post JA for you 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BroadScot Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 it looks better now Iain Oh I say JA very swish indeed! Cancel the mast n flappy cloth! Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finny Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 It rattled by brain this post and had to look through my old service log - I have to correct my first post the oil I used was Comma but it was 20 / 50 have a look at this link makes good reading on which and why hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanetAnne Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Oh I say JA very swish indeed! Cancel the mast n flappy cloth! Iain Phew! That was close... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finny Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 (edited) sorry cant get the link to work ...........anyway Amazon search 20 / 50 comma oil - they do a classic oil also makes good reading http://www.amazon.co.uk/Comma-CLA20505L-20W-Classic-Motor/dp/B002RPJ67E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435779616&sr=8-1&keywords=20+%2F+50+comma+oil fumblinfin Edited July 1, 2015 by BroadScot Hope its the right one Craig? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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