The Broads by Cycle, Ferry, Foot & Rail

AdnamsGirl · August 24, 2015

We've just had a Broads weekend away that is a bit different for us ... there were no boats involved. On a budget, and wanting to explore the surrounding countryside a little further, we booked into the campsite at Reedham Ferry for three nights ... or mission was to abandon the car once it had got us, our bikes and the camping gear there. (I don't do light camping!)

We arrived at the campsite late on Friday afternoon. It's quite a nice site with level camping pitches and a very smart new shower and toilet block. The price was £15 per night for the two of us. The non electric end of the site doesn't have marked out pitches, so you can essentially have as much space as you need with windbreaks, awnings, etc should you need them, and you can park your car beside the tent too. It was pretty busy being the school holidays but we didn't feel hemmed in where we were. There is a huge overflow field too to accommodate extra campers too. Could have done without the all night chorus of bullocks in the next field mind you!

The secret to successful camping is the make sure you remember to pack a decent breakfast chef ...

Wussername · August 24, 2015

A great place. Glad you enjoyed. Were you riding electric bikes by any chance?

AdnamsGirl · August 24, 2015

A great place. Glad you enjoyed. Were you riding electric bikes by any chance?

Yikes no! Proper bikes! :shocked

Saturday morning, and with breakfast out of the way, we loaded the bike bags with essentials and set off for a days cycle ride which saw us covering a circular route of just under 27 miles. We split this up into three sections of 8-9 miles in length. Crossing the river Yare on the ferry (£1 each with cycles) our first destination was Geldeston Locks Inn. I try to plan our routes carefully to avoid main roads as much as possible, sticking to the smaller lanes and tracks where necessary to get us where we want to go. Geldeston was reached via Raveningham, crossing the A146 and A143 via farm tracks and single track lanes.

We reached the Locks in a little under an hour. It's actually nearer than you think (about 8.5 miles). Thankfully they were open! Cycling in 26 degrees works up a thirst. We had a very fine pint of Grain Oak bitter, a bowl of chips each and a lovely chat with a retired couple from Lowestoft who had come to the pub on the Big Dog Ferry before setting off again to the next destination.

Carol

NorfolkNog · August 24, 2015

The Locks! I'm not jealous of course :liar

That Grain Oak is a very fine drop too! cheersbar

AdnamsGirl · August 24, 2015

Onwards, with the temperature increasing (I didn't order a heatwave!). We decided to check out another pub which is within reasonable walking distance of Broads mooring spots. In this case it was Wheatacre White Lion which is about 2 miles from the Waveney River Centre.

Back up to Geldeston village, turning right to head through Dunburgh and across to Gillingham, using the national cycle route there to cross safely over the main roads, up and across to Toft Monks and Aldeby before turning off at Wheatacre towards Haddsiscoe. We had detoured off route a little to find a nice place to stop for a picnic. We try to find a village green - in this case it was sitting in the shade beneath an oak tree on a deserted playing field. The respite from the blazing sunshine was extremely welcome for half an hour. The White Lion at Wheatacre seems to have followed the recent trend for gastro pub makeovers with the cream and heritage green colour schemes, but I have to say that the beer selections do seem to get a little more interesting away from the rivers. In this case we sampled some Ilkley Black from Yorkshire and very nice it was too. It's definitely a pub we will revisit by foot when we next stop at Burgh St Peter.

AdnamsGirl · August 24, 2015

It really was getting hot now. I think the beer was worn off after a couple of miles cycling!

The final stretch saw us heading up to Haddiscoe and across to Thurlton before making our way back to the ferry. By the time we reached Haddiscoe I was lamenting the fact that I had picked a cycle route which didn't seem to have and cafe stops for tea and cake. Along with a welcome beer, tea and cake are another staple of cycling. A quick look at the map didn't conjure up much hope for confectionery delights, so we ploughed on. Through Haddiscoe and round the country lanes to Thorpe by Haddiscoe.

A lasy walking down the road ahead was clearly attuned to my need for tea and spontaneously announced that there was tea and coffee available at the church.

"Is there cake?" I shouted

"Oh yes" came the reply.

We came to an abrupt stop at the church and in we went to join some rather surprised villagers. Our apologies for gate crashing your afternoon! A very welcome cup of tea, some rather splendid home made lemon cake and a lovely chat about the church with the wardens. What a stunning little church St Mathias is. A round tower dating back to c950 with later additions with some stunning medieval graffiti.

AdnamsGirl · August 24, 2015

This is the remains of a medieval mass dial carved in the doorway .. a sundial really into which a peg was inserted so that the priest could tell when it was time to conduct mass. Lots of other very old carvings in the stonework too. What a treasure this place is and it apparently came within a gnats whisker of closure. I have to confess to being an atheist, but I find ancient churches fascinating.

Edited August 24, 2015 by AdnamsGirl

AdnamsGirl · August 24, 2015

Last stop of the day was Thurlton Queens Head which would be about a three mile walk from Reedham Ferry if you're feeling energetic. Picked because they have their own brewery (called The People's Brewery). I am always keen to discover new local micro breweries. This is a proper pub, seemingly no food, but a real hub of the community. The beer wasn't bad either. Selections from Lacons were also on offer and the landlord told us that they try to support other local breweries as much as possible. Worthy of a revisit at some point when we can sample a little more of their offerings!

Back to Reedham and back across on the ferry, my GPS showed that we had cycled just under 27 miles. It felt like it! Thankfully I didn't have to cook tea as we had booked into the Ferry Inn for a meal that evening!

Off to bed with with the plan being to head to the Berney Arms by train the next day .....

AdnamsGirl · August 25, 2015

It was a very windy night on Saturday. Thankfully the tent was well pegged down and, despite all the flapping, we were relieved to find that we still where we'd pitched in the morning. Plenty of time for a leisurely breakfast as the train to Great Yarmouth wasn't due at Reedham until 11.57.

It was a 15 minute stroll up to the station from the campsite - I love old railway stations and we weren't the only ones heading to the Berney Arms either. The conductor collected our fares - £2.40 each for a one way ticket. Blink and you miss the journey mind you! The trains on this stretch have just two carriages. If you are planning on doing the trip then make sure you are up at the front of the first carriage as the platform at the Berney Arms is very short!

AdnamsGirl · August 25, 2015

A five minute train ride and we were there ... and my god the wind was blowing a gale across the marshes! The track across the field towards the mill is quite easy to identify. It's such a shame that the mill isn't open to attract more visitors but I guess it's an issue of getting volunteers out there?

What can I say about the pub, the subject of a controversial planning submission for change of use (see thread elsewhere), and another treasure of the Norfolk Broads which is receiving a great deal of media attention at the moment. I had noticed on Friday before we left that Mike Liggins was filming for BBC Look East and it seems its TV appearance had encourage a good number of people to visit this weekend. The next train brought quite a number of customers, and there were a good number of walkers too. The pub was actually really busy over the lunchtime period. At one point new landlady Tracey popped out to wash up a few bits and was visibly shocked by the queue which had built up at the bar in her absence. A great boost for her but I just hope that the visitors continue to come through the season.

We just had a bowl of chips each but the portions of food heading off elsewhere looked plentiful. A limited menu and just one vegetarian choice (or a cheese and pickle sandwich) but that's to be expected really. We had a couple of pints of pints of very well kept Trawlerboys before starting back along an extremely windswept Wherryman's Way to Reedham.

AdnamsGirl · August 25, 2015

The Wherryman's Way follows the course of the river here - watch where you are putting your feet as there are plenty of rabbit holes and fissures where the ground has cracked in the dry weather. A less windy day might be a sensible idea too! Apart from that, it is quite easy, level walking and probably about five miles or so back to Reedham.

We took a halfaway break on the way back to have a poke round Polkey's Mill and Cadge's Mill - must return on one of the open days! Beside Polkey's MIll is the steam engine which was installed to drain the surrounding marshland in 1880. On the marshes behind these mills is the derelict North Mill, believed to have been built c1830s and last used around 1900. A history of Broads drainage all in one place! Sad to see how run down Seven Mile House is becoming though.

AdnamsGirl · August 25, 2015

Back at Reedham, we stopped in at the Ship for a quick pint before making our way back to the campsite at the Ferry Inn. The Red Mill was looking very lovely as we passed.

The looming clouds had threatened to dampen our walk but the rain held off until ten minutes after we had got back to the tent. It was a little damp in the morning when we packed up to go home but it had been a thoroughly enjoyable weekend ... even if I do ache a bit now! It's made me determined to do a bit more cycling and walking around the Broads, even when we are out and about on boats. There are several places where bikes can be hired. There is so much of interest in the surrounding countryside and villages. The exercise also helps to negate the beer and chips consumed! :naughty:

Carol

boycee · August 25, 2015

Thanks Carol for a really interesting blog touring the broads in a totally different way

Boycee

Edited August 25, 2015 by boycee
missed out name

Hockham Admiral · August 25, 2015

Thanks for a really interesting blog touring the broads in a totally different way
Boycee

Hear, Hear! Alan.

Lovely way to see things, Carol... I wish we could still walk that far! :clap :clap :clap

NorfolkNog · August 25, 2015

Hi Carol

Great stuff, really enjoyed reading your holiday tale, many thanks indeed for sharing with us.

You are right, there is so much to see away from the actual rivers, well worth exploring. I was very interested in the Queens Head, I seem to think it is/was listed in the Good Beer Guide, must check. I'm glad the Berney was doing well, just hope it can carry on. Also glad the Trawlerboys was on form. :-) Well done for supporting the local hostelries cheers :-)