Installing Additional Vents

[tjg1677]

Tried to edit but couldnt , so adding this ps.

Those of you who have alphacraft will probably be familiar with the stupid moulded in lifebuoy holder on the cabin roof aft. All this does is fill with water and create a very deluxe mobile and expensive birdbath. Have to make a drainage system to alleviate this problem, as last september, when backing onto my moorings, i had to do a quick burst of full ahead and the contents went all over the crew member handling the aft ropes. Didnt do it on purpose - honest .................

[riyadhcrew]

Good luck with all this work Trev. Looking forward to photos of the results.

[tjg1677]

Bit  of an update.  We have a full week aboard at Easter and it looks like a lot of it is going to be maintenance. Been slowly shuttling stuff down over the last couple of months and the saloon now looks like a Chandler.

Jobs to do list.

1. Fit some more roof vents.

2. Fit drainage facility to birdbath aka moulded in lifebouy holder.

3. Assemble and fit my version of pulpit rail.

4. Fit repeat set of gauges and warning lights to flybridge. 

5. Attempt to fit thermostat to heating system to try stop it drinking fuel.managed to use over 75 litres over the winter!

6. 're hang flybridge access doors.

7. Bend on nbn burgee 

8. Investigate why pump out holding tank warning lights don't work.

9. Carpet tile 2 cabins.

10. Sterilize fresh water system.

And so on and so forth. The above represents about 60 percent of the to do list but I didn't want to bore you all to tears . Will hopefully get some pics of the work and post them up. 

Hope we get time to do a bit of cruising!!

Have a greatEaster y'all wherever you are.

Trev

 

 

[LondonRascal]

Hey fancy swapping your list for ours on B.A?

The tank gauge could be two things - there is a short/fuse blown or loose wire between sender and gauge (not likely) the sender inside the tank is stuck and will not 'slide up' as the contents of the tank fill. 

Sorry to say to say this will require the tank to be opened where the sender is and someone seeing if it is stuck, free it and then if moves does the gauge move..If you do not have a gauge but just something meant to say when it is full it will still operate on the principle of a float hitting a switch to make a connection and light up a bulb sort of thing.

On B.A i got a couple of tubs of a product called Puriclean.  It is a fine white powder that comes in a tub and you add it to your tank - leave for 12hours then flush - we left ours a week and came back and flushed.  It took two flushes and I think the hot water immersion  tank still has traces of it, but it has made all our fresh water hoses clear of all scale and pristine not to mention killed off any bacteria present. Link to buy: http://amzn.eu/0yuVgcl 

 

 

[tjg1677]

Thanks robin. Switches are the hydrostatic type that work on pressure in a tube, this in turn operates a pressure switch and illuminated a warning light.  The switches work I have tested them so we either have an electrical fault or even blown bulbs. Fuses are ok. May just end up rewiring the whole lot, could be easier!

Have that product already but in tablet form, so all good there. 

I think I wilpolitely decline your kind offer to swap to do lists even though I still have about 25 items to do. The pulpit rails and duplicate engine instruments are going to be a big enough headache though.

 

Trev

[Regulo]

Re: the duplicate gauges. You may find you need a different sender. Can't be sure, but some instruments need a dual sender when operating two gauges, if I recall correctly. You might need to do a bit of research. Or consult an expert - any takers?  

[tjg1677]

Thanks Regulo.

The only three gauges I am actually fitting are the temp, engine volts and RPM. The oil is a warning light and buzzer.

The engine already has a dual tapping for a duplicate temp gauge. The tachometer signal will come off the alternator phase tap ( AC pulse ) and the voltage straight off the positive side of the shut down solenoid and suitable engine earth. The oil warning is a straight on/off pressure switch, so no resistances fighting each other to worry about there.

Incidentally, just for anyone interested and who may want to do this themselves, I was a bit wary about cutting great big holes in the GRP where the upper helm is situated, get it wrong and it is a right mess to fix. Instead what I have done is prefabricate the panel in a large IP rated project box. This is fully removable and will be connected to the engine electrics via a 12N trailer plug and 7 core towing cable. That way I only have to drill one small hole to mount the 12N socket to plug it all into and the instrument panel can be placed anywhere to give best visibility as it is on a 3 foot trailing lead and can be removed from the upper helm when not in use. Will take some pics when installed and post it here.

trev

[tjg1677]

PS.

was going to fit dual rudder indicators as well but ended up buying a davis instruments indicator that mounts to the centre of the wheel. |Great little gadgets and highly recommended, saves running cables from both helms back to a sender on the steering gear tiller arm.

If anyone is considering fitting rudder indicators, I have two spare gauges and a sender if anyone is interested.

trev

[Regulo]

Regarding tidying up helm positions, I was fed up with all the odd bits and pieces that had been added/removed around the upper helm (see original), I decided to fabricate an "overlay" panel from upvc board. This worked very well for me. The second pic was taken at dusk, so doesn't show up too well. But you get the idea.

[RegalSafari]

Great job 

[ranworthbreeze]

5 hours ago, tjg1677 said:

Thanks Regulo.

The only three gauges I am actually fitting are the temp, engine volts and RPM. The oil is a warning light and buzzer.

The engine already has a dual tapping for a duplicate temp gauge. The tachometer signal will come off the alternator phase tap ( AC pulse ) and the voltage straight off the positive side of the shut down solenoid and suitable engine earth. The oil warning is a straight on/off pressure switch, so no resistances fighting each other to worry about there.

Incidentally, just for anyone interested and who may want to do this themselves, I was a bit wary about cutting great big holes in the GRP where the upper helm is situated, get it wrong and it is a right mess to fix. Instead what I have done is prefabricate the panel in a large IP rated project box. This is fully removable and will be connected to the engine electrics via a 12N trailer plug and 7 core towing cable. That way I only have to drill one small hole to mount the 12N socket to plug it all into and the instrument panel can be placed anywhere to give best visibility as it is on a 3 foot trailing lead and can be removed from the upper helm when not in use. Will take some pics when installed and post it here.

trev

Hi Trev,

A couple of years ago I used a four inch hole saw on our upper helm to fit two speakers for our upper helm radio. When ever I have to drill holes in the boat I am always wary, especially on something that big. Loads of measuring and re- measuring.

Regards

Alan

[tjg1677]

Couple of pictures for you of GK showing the new flybridge instrument panel and the new bow rail rail for better safety  when on deck up forrard.

[Regulo]

Very neat. Everything you need to know.

[Wildfuzz]

Love the speed chart, must do something similar I am fed up of being shown "lollipop" boards by the BA rangers

[ExUserGone]

That speed chart is useless on the southern broads though as the tide has much more effect.

[tjg1677]

Very true but it does give you a rough datum point and in reality is better than nothing.