Lining Boat Walls

[smitch6]

Ok just thinking in advance as not ready for this yet in the resto project ............
I will be covering the walls with grey vinyl faux leatherette stuff.
I want it to be slightly spongy and did think about 1/2" foam but just been told by the supplier that if i have to join it the edges will show through the vinyl.

any ideas on whats best to do this with?
i'm going to need about 30mts of vinyl at 1.4 mth wide
so quite a bit.

I want to do ceiling, walls in the forward cabin (living area)
and the the sides of the after area ie where i steer etc which will be covered by the canopy.

they are all bare fibreglass at the minute.

So was thinking 6-9mm ply lined for the rear and the forward spraying glue to stick the foam then sticking vinyl on top of that.

hope that makes sense
 

[BroadAmbition]

'Scrim' vinyl is what you want.  We did sommat similar with the Deckheads onboad 'B.A' (Ceilings indeed )  we used 3mm ply cut to size, then 'Backed' the ply like we used to do to our form books in school days only using aerosol spray adhesive   You can buy vinyl / leatherette in various shades and it comes with the foam already stuck to the back of it. Then screwed them up into place with s/steel screws and colour matched plastic screw cups.  Looks a treat, easy to clean and provides insulation too.  The bulkheads (Walls indeed  ) we did the same method but 'Backed' them with soft-to-touch carpet fixed again with aerosol spray adhesive and  the odd s/steel staple here and there.  Hope this helps,

Griff

[Wildfuzz]

I think unless breathable the vinyl would be a haven for condensation, I think Griff has given good advice above. My ex father in-law used to work for Oyster boats and all there headlining's etc. were as described by Griff but held in place with industrial grade Velcro for ease of alignment and removal.

we did out our (very small) cabin earlier this season with short pile carpet, soft to touch and great insulation, no condensation as the scrim type backing allows air to circulate.

[Polly]

Boards are definitely the way to go, sticking vinyl to the fibreglass encourages mould and  is a really horrible job! Where there are joins between boards, it should look fine, but you could go the extra mile and use piping cord covered with a non foamed version of the vinyl, fix the seam allowance of this to the back edge of one board and snuggle the next up to it. 

The industrial grade Velcro is a great idea.

[smitch6]

unfortunately the shape of my boat won't allow for the use of using ply in most places.

The aft cabin sides i can no problem but the forward cabin the sides are curved lengthways and up / down so it would be a pain.

Plus the windows have rounded corners and an offset rectangle

[LondonRascal]

What I would consider doing then is using some closed cell foam - the sort of thing you would use for camping 'rolled ground sheet' as these is cheap, and effective.

Using this will mean you can insulate the hull sides - thus stop any condensation forming. Use 3M '74' spray adhesive as this will form a permanent bond that will see the foam fail before the adhesive. It however essential that the location you use this are prepared - so lots of sanding will be needed and then Acetone  to be sure of a clean surface.

Cut the foam, and cover the areas that you need to - then you can get your Vinyl which not having an open cell foam backing will be cheaper, and not run the risk of the foam backing disintegrating over time. Use 3M 74 again this time to adhere the vinyl to your already attached close cell foam.

You can watch a video serious of hose to use this method here:

 

 

[Polly]

Hawke House Marine have some good 'how to' leaflets to go with their vinyl, but tho be honest, and having done this job on Rondonay, I would gladly pay a pro to to the tricky bits.

[smitch6]

i've done it on 2 boats now as this is my 3rd resto

the 1st way all square walls roof floor etc it was a lovely liveaboard.

the 2nd i just used cheap carpet as it's an ok boat and a pain in the bum as far as curves etc.

but this boat i want to be my long term boat hence the help needed

definately easier of the walls etc are straight

 

interesting video there :) 

kinda what i was going to do but i don't have stringers, mine is a fibreglass shell then another fibreglass shell inside the boat which makes up the seating and sides and roof

it's like an inner shell weird really

as i say the after area will be loads easier than the forward cabin

i'm down there tomorrow so will take some pics to show you all

[Polly]

Looks like you are well set then. I got so frustrated with my first attempt it went in the skip! 

[LondonRascal]

The guy in the video is Mads and a very decent chap from Denmark - who went from an unknown DIY boat owner to now being very well respected by professional boat builders - he has even designed produced and worked with great effect a custom 'hot vac' osmosis system to dry his Warrior 38 hull as there was no company in Denmark who offered this service.

Those stringers in his small sailboat were all his handy work covered in the first parts of the series made from small solid Oak pieces salvaged from the flooring for his home. Then individual cut, shaped, laminated and epoxied to the hull. The insulation you saw him do has since been covered with Mahogany strips attached to those stringers.

The only problem is he has been grabbed by the fairer sex, who lives in Los Angles and has watched his videos so he has jetted off to see her - I can only imagine the boat will suddenly take second fiddle to his love interest, as women always tend to lol