Stern Gland

[Keebz]

I have been to the boat today to do the usual maintenance, just want to pick brains,the stern gland on my prop shaft is the collet and two bolt type I’ve always had the grease gland with the tape turn type, to repack the collet type do you just undue the nuts off the threads pull out the plate and pack  with grease and replace plate 

[Smoggy]

Greasing is not repacking, to repack you need the right sized graphite/cotton rope, open the glad and pick out the old packing and replace with 3 or 4 rings of new packing and retighten with just a nip.

Water will come in but not that fast, have the rings prepared by wrapping around the shaft and running a sharp knife along to get the size right, when repacking space the joints offset to each other. 

They should drip at a slow rate as that is what cools them.

As a disclaimer I am currently enjoying another very nice rum at nearly 1.00am and the instructions may not be perfectly described. 

 

[Vaughan]

If your stern gland does not have a grease cap then it just needs the packing tightened a little if it is dripping too much.  A slow steady drip every 10 or 15 seconds with engine off, is normal.

There are two threads one on either side of the gland with two brass nuts on each.  On older boats you will find that these are Whitworth size nuts.  With two spanners, undo the first one - the locknut - leaving the second in position.  Tighten the second nuts by half to one turn each and see what happens.  It is important to tighten the two nuts evenly so as to keep the two faces of the gland exactly square and parallel to each other.

When you find a suitable position, run the engine in ahead gear at about 1400 revs for a least 10 minutes.  Feel the gland with your hand. If it is warm that is normal.  If it is too hot to touch, loosen the nuts a turn and try again.  When you are happy with it, tighten the locknuts again.

If you get to the position where the two gland faces are almost touching, then it needs re-packing and I recommend this should be done by a boatyard engineer.

[Keebz]

1 hour ago, Vaughan said:

If your stern gland does not have a grease cap then it just needs the packing tightened a little if it is dripping too much.  A slow steady drip every 10 or 15 seconds with engine off, is normal.

There are two threads one on either side of the gland with two brass nuts on each.  On older boats you will find that these are Whitworth size nuts.  With two spanners, undo the first one - the locknut - leaving the second in position.  Tighten the second nuts by half to one turn each and see what happens.  It is important to tighten the two nuts evenly so as to keep the two faces of the gland exactly square and parallel to each other.

When you find a suitable position, run the engine in ahead gear at about 1400 revs for a least 10 minutes.  Feel the gland with your hand. If it is warm that is normal.  If it is too hot to touch, loosen the nuts a turn and try again.  When you are happy with it, tighten the locknuts again.

If you get to the position where the two gland faces are almost touching, then it needs re-packing and I recommend this should be done by a boatyard engineer.

You confirmed which I was 99.9 % sure was the routine thanks for feed back 👍

[Vaughan]

By the way, if the drip of the gland (which is often under a bed) is keeping you awake at night, tear off a thin strip of cotton waste about an inch wide, tie one end loosely around the gland and let the other end dangle in the bilge water.  This will soak up the drips and let them flow into the bilge without making any noise.

[stumpy]

If you do go down the route of changing the packing do NOT use your lady's best crochet hook to get the old stuff out! Take the handle off an old file and bend a hook into the end of the tang then sharpen it up- worked for me. My ears are still ringing after the crochet hook incident!

[annv]

Hi Keebz Yes and no you dont need to replace the packing with grease just dry then adjusted to get your drip every thing as Vaughan said, just one tip, when i had my last boat i would give the cap a turn then turn the shaft by hand one turn this stopped the drip whilst moored thus keeping bilges dry. John

[Keebz]

20 minutes ago, annv said:

Hi Keebz Yes and no you dont need to replace the packing with grease just dry then adjusted to get your drip every thing as Vaughan said, just one tip, when i had my last boat i would give the cap a turn then turn the shaft by hand one turn this stopped the drip whilst moored thus keeping bilges dry. John

I did the same on my Powell’s 33, when I have her out the end of next season I’ll replace the cutless bearing and prop I’m fitting hydraulic steering and re fitting the galley this winter, but I’ll have to have the gearbox looked at this winter as it’s turning the shaft out of gear to quick for my liking but it will see rest of this season out 👍