Low Sulphur Diesel

[Mowjo]

Gordon! from what I can work out, the low sulphur fuel, has less sulphur and a bit of Biofuel added, the low sulphur shrinks the seals on pumps and stuff because of the lack of oil in it, whereas the old type diesel makes them swell a bit because of the oil in it, so there are two issues with the Low sulphur fuel, it shrinks the seals on pumps and stuff causing leaks and the addition of the Bio (FAME) in it attracts water making it more prone to diesel bug, there are reports the new stuff doesn't store as well as the old diesel and degrades, but I havn't looked into that too much yet as for now it's confusing, some are saying instead of making sure your fuel tank is full to avoid the bug you should empty it, but after looking I found the a product called Soltron can be added to your tank and it stops the bug, Paladin uses it, and a lot of others on Marine sites use it and swear by it, it's just a bug treatment but works better than most because it dissolves any bugs making them so small they pass through the fuel system and get burnt off,,,

Soltron is already used by Stena Line Ferries. WP Marine carried out emissions testing and fuel sampling. Test results show how Soltron improved fuel efficiency by 12.7% and reduced emissions by 45%.

Soltron produces these results after 42 days of a 65-day trial on the Stena Line Trader, a 212-metre cross channel ferry (26,660t) with four B&W MAN 9l 48/60B engines (KW Horsepower: 2 x 10,800 kW).

What is Diesel Bug? What causes Diesel Bug?

Diesel bug is a biological contamination that can occur within gas oil.

Risk of contamination increases if you attempt to use road diesel in your marine engine.

This is because road diesel contains up to 7% FAME (Fatty Acid Methyl Ester or Biodiesel).

How does Soltron stop Diesel Bug and reduce fuel consumption?

Soltron’s enzymes continuously react with Diesel Bug contaminants, converting them back into fuel.

Any remaining deposits are broken down into sub-micron sizes that burn off during combustion.

During the ignition of fuel, the Soltron enzymes help the diesel to combust so all the fuel burns off. It keeps the fuel particles small so they have lots of combustible oxygen around them.

Soltron also speeds up the reaction. Better fuel combustion means less fuel is needed for the same power ­ - so less fuel is used.

[Gordon]

Thanks for that Mowjo. That is about how I understand it. So maybe both issues are being mixed up on this thread. It appeared that there was an opinion that fame free diesel was an answer to the seal issue which is to do with the sulphur. I am assuming that wherever you buy your fuel it will have lower sulphur and an element of bio diesel. Is that correct?

[Happy]

So if we add Soltron to our fuel to stop diesel bug will this also help lubricate the pump seals?  Regards Alan 

[Mowjo]

No Alan! Soltron is only to stop the Diesel buggers, there are quite a few other Diesel bug treatments out there that work,  but the Soltron seems to be the one recommended on most of the boating sites, next in line was the Marine 16  but as it's biocidal the bugs can build up immunity to it, whereas the Soltron is non biocidal so it will work all the time, my regime when my boat is back in the water will be using Soltron as directed and adding mineral two stroke at a ratio of 200-1, I shouldn't need the two stroke with my new seals but a bit of extra help won't do any harm,,,

 

Frank,,,,
 

[Happy]

Frank.  I always get confused with mixing ratios but you seem to be on the ball!  I have two 40 gallon tanks on the boat.  How much 2 stroke (mineral) should be added to each tank?  Thanks Mate.  Regards Alan  

[Paladin]

Happy, it's easier to work in litres. 40 gallons = 182 litres. The ratio of 2T to diesel is 1 litre of 2T for every 200 litres of fuel. The proportions are not critical, so I would suggest you add a litre of 2T to each tank next time you fill up. That will give you about the correct proportion in each tank.

 

Thereafter, it's simply. When you top up, use the following guide:

 

  50 litres of fuel......0.25 litres of 2T

100 litres of fuel......0.50 litres of 2T

150 litres of fuel......0.75 litres of 2T

200 litres of fuel......1.00 litres of 2T

 

Add the 2T first and it will get well mixed in when the fuel is pumped in.

[Paladin]

BUT, just in case, when I go to the boat on Friday, I'm going to experiment with closing off the air intake to the filter housing, just to see if doing that will stop the engine.

Well, it's Friday and I've conducted my experiment. I set the engine speed at 1,200 rpm, closed off the air intake to the filter housing and the housing drain spigot, and the engine never missed a beat!

 

Obviously, the filter housing isn't sufficiently air-tight. The crankcase breather is connected to a non-removable part of the filter housing and it occurred to me that I might be creating a greater suction effect inside the housing, which just MIGHT cause crankcase fuel to be drawn into the engine at a higher rate, via the breather (which is a cause of a runaway, if the oil level is too high). Not a good idea, then.

 

However, to remove the housing in order to remove the filter, to be able to get to the air intake proper below that, involves unscrewing two 2" bolts and taking off two straps.Not a quick job in an emergency.

 

Frankly, having given this serious thought and a practical test, IF I'm unlucky enough to experience a runaway, trying to stop the engine in this way is not part of my action plan. But, at least I now have an action plan, so this has not been a pointless exercise.

[Mowjo]

The time taken to remove the air filter was one of my concerns Paladin, it seems pretty rare for the engine to blow but the thought of having ones head stuck over the engine while trying to take the filter off is a bit too risky for me, think I'd sooner have a blown engine than a blown head, from what your saying it seems the only way to stop the engine is to remove it and block the intake hole, on the up side now we all know the problem by doing regular checks on the oil and making sure we keep an eye on it, adding a bit of two stroke and a drop of Soltron to kill buggers, we may be able to avoid it ever happening, on the dosing of 2T I found while playing that the lid from a 400ml spray can holds 125ml,  just the right amount for 25 litres of fuel,

 

Frank,,,,

[Happy]

Paladin.  Thanks for the info.  Will now take the neccesary measures.  Regards Alan

[littlesprite]

Having read this thread and discovered all about the problems that could occur with the engine running away I now know what steps to take "very big ones"

 

Thank you to all who contributed on this topic it has been very educational.  

[Hockham Admiral]

I've also followed this thread with great interest, Martin.

 

We are fortunate (??) that our fuel tank is just in front of the helm position and it would only take me a matter of seconds to turn off the supply... I guess this would do the trick?

[Guest]

is there anywhere local to the broads to get Soltron....?   did a quick search at Aquafax and Norfolk marine but no good.

[Guest]

is there anywhere local to the broads to get Soltron....?   did a quick search at Aquafax and Norfolk marine but no good.

 

Norfolk Marine does stock "Star Tron" additives, it seems quite a coincidence that they both end with "tron".  

 

Is it definitely "Soltron" that's wanted ?  Are they similar products ?

 

I've been using their Petrol additive for a few years now, (though for different reasons, of course).

 

http://www.norfolkmarine.co.uk/shop-online/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=fuel+additive&categories_id=&manufacturers_id=&submit=Go&inc_subcat=1

[Guest]

Thank Strow. ... yes definitely Soltron as it's seems very highly recommended. .... have just seen that ASAP at Beccles does it so will be heading there Saturday to get some.

[10B]

I have been looking at Paladin's calculation chart.

 

When filling up I put in £100 worth of fuel so I will need to put in 50p worth of 2T.

 

Does anybody know how much the 2T costs so that I can work out how much to put in.

[BuffaloBill]

I bought my Soltron from French Marine at Rackheath.

As we have a BMC 1.5 drizzle (with no oil leaks!) I assume

I'll have to start using 2T oil as well but will ask at Barnes

where we get our fuel, if it's Fame free or otherwise.

[Mowjo]

I've also followed this thread with great interest, Martin.

 

We are fortunate (??) that our fuel tank is just in front of the helm position and it would only take me a matter of seconds to turn off the supply... I guess this would do the trick?

John! turning the fuel off will work eventually, the problem is that when the pump seals go the pump! pumps diesel straight into the sump, so if you combine the diesel pumped into the tank with the 5ltrs or so of oil in there you potentially have 10ltrs of fuel in your sump, it will burn off quite quickly because the engine will be going at full revs but I think the engine would probably blow before you ran out, so far the only certain ways I can find of stopping the engine are A; Block the air intake, B; Somehow stall the engine, C; Fire a large Co2 extinguisher into the air intake,,

 

 

10B, not sure if I've misread your post?? I don't think it's 50p per £100 of diesel for 100 litres of fuel you put in 1/2 litre of 2T Paladin is stop on with his chart but I'll do it again in my measurment's  you can buy it from £5 upwards for 1 litre but make sure it's mineral oil, not synthetic or semi synthetic

 

 

  50 litres of fuel......1/4 litre 2T

100 litres of fuel......1/2 litre 2T

150 litres of fuel......3/4 litre 2T

200 litres of fuel...... 1 litre of 2T

 

Frank,,,,,

[10B]

Mojo, the calculation is 200 to 1.

 

£200 fuel calculates £1 pounds worth of 2T.

 

£100 fuel calculates to 50p worth.

[Oddfellow]

Co2 is probably the best method of engine suffocation if you have an air filter, but I might imagine even with this, the filter will be pulling air all around and getting some Co2 might not be enough.

[Mowjo]

I agree Andy! I've read on a couple of the Diesel car forums of them having to pump in a full 5 kg Co2 extinguisher, sometimes it's worked others it hasn't, blocking the air filter seems the only certain way to stop it,, I think the main thing is that as we are aware of it we can take precautions so it's less likely to happen, either that of have our fuel pumps overhauled and the new seals put in, not the cheapest option if you take the cost and labour charges to do it, but still one hell of a lot cheaper than having to replace a blown engine,,

 

Frank,,,,

[Guest]

Thank Strow. ... yes definitely Soltron as it's seems very highly recommended. .... have just seen that ASAP at Beccles does it so will be heading there Saturday to get some.

oops ........just double checked only open Mon - Fri so that will have to wait until next week

[Oddfellow]

EDIT 

 

but still one hell of a lot cheaper than having to replace a blown engine,,

 

Frank,,,,

 

Indeed. But don't also forget, a runaway engine is also capable of throwing a connecting rod which might damage surrounding items and most gearboxes aren't rated for the kind of speed that will be generated.

 

What I mean is that if you get away with just a blown engine, you're probably quite lucky.

[Guest]

Indeed. But don't also forget, a runaway engine is also capable of throwing a connecting rod which might damage surrounding items and most gearboxes aren't rated for the kind of speed that will be generated.

 

What I mean is that if you get away with just a blown engine, you're probably quite lucky.

 

Sorry to add to the doom and gloom on this, but it also occurs to me that most inboard diesels are fitted in very close proximity to the hull, at a point well below the waterline. If the con-rods crash through the sump then.....

 

Thank goodness for inland waterways cruising.....  

[BuffaloBill]

 

"It is fame free with a small % of bio diesel. Exactly the same as everyone else supplies."

 

 

Just had this from Matthew Thwaites at Barnes Brinkcraft.

So this fuel should be ok? or not? on my BMC 1.5

[Paladin]

A fuel that is FAME-free doesn't contain any biodiesel. If it contains biodiesel, it isn't FAME-free. That's how I understand it, anyway. If I still had my Safari with its BMC 1.5, I'd be looking for genuine, certified, FAME-free diesel (it should say on the supplier's delivery note/invoice that it is FAME-free). IMHO, Mr Thwaites is speaking out of his exhaust.