grendel

the brackets hold the model nicely (once I had rounded off the corners where planking meets keel, then came a feature Griff had told me was incorrect - the space above the forward cockpit steps, it has a cutout (there is a board that can infill over here) after that the bulbs were fitted into the cockpit lights- then tested on the power supply, I am liking the colour and brightness of these fittings. at this point I spent a good hour and a half poring over the photo albums to fins one showing the helm switches, in enough detail to read, I had to go back to some pictures I took in 2016 to find the one that when zoomed I could read the labels - well I have to get the lights wired to the correct switches, dont I? that has now been noted down, and the fiddly work in tight spaces will soon begin.

so, having realised what a useful tool the cnc router was, what else could i cut, a few months ago i had carefully measured the hull shape for a stand, at 2 spots, this still really needed checking, and i needed a low profile stand for the model while working on it, 2 birds and all that, so another session in the design software, and an early (9am) start to noisy work, the neghbours in the air bnb that next door has become had kept me awake all night with their incessant chatter, they were still going at 5 am when i woke. the machine isnt that bad, its just a small hand router, but it runs for an hour or so making cuts. anyway a hour and a half later i had cut out the supports for the hull, gone back and cut some bases to glue them onto, and cut those out too, talk about precise edges - crisp and sharp.

there are only 2 depths on the broads shallow, and shallower, most places you moor there will be between 6" and a foot of so water beneath the boat, usually with depth gauges there is an audible alarm if it gets too shallow, this would be annoying going off constantly, 2 m is usually considered deep.

then again there is always the BAT- Boat added Tax, for some reason if you want a new fridge at home, you can generally pick one up for a few hundred, yet a similar 'marine' fridge will have a price tag over £600, unfortunately the old adage "BOAT = Bung on another thousand" seems to still hold true.

the CNC router has bought a whole degree more of accuracy to this, suddenly I can cut accurate parts to 0.1mm, accurate holes through things, anything up to a size 270mm square, in wood brass aluminium or plastic, I see a whole new horizon opening up, things that I could have 3d printed can be carved out of solid blocks of wood, or soft metal.

so some days the jobs you get done are not the ones you intended doing, I was impatient, I wanted to see how the doors would come out in a piece of hardwood, I think this was mahogany (it came from an old wardrobe), anyway it was too thick, so through the thicknesser it went until it was under 3mm. then onto the cnc router, where I set the cuts slightly deeper than last time - this has worked as it has left a nice detail around the edges of the doors and windows, I used a 90 degree engraving bit to outline them, and it has left a very small chamfer around the edges, then it was time to cut the parts out (1/16" en mill) it took several goes because of the increased thickness, I kept setting the bit 0.2mm deeper until it did a good cut through the part (there is a jog mode to cut just 0.05mm deeper, while the machine is in operation. anyway, here is the finished set of doors - and no lights or wiring done today. oops.

it was while I was moving the model to the workspace that i noticed the fragile rear door had broken, I was not overly happy with my workmanship (though when I made it i used the best tools available, but it wasnt perfect, now I have another tool in my arsenal, though, so 10 minutes in design and I had the doors modelled to cut out on the CNC router. test piecein some 1.6mm plywood, and that went fine, I do need a wide enough plank of hardwood 2mm thick to make these out of, I have the timber, in the width, i just need a 2mm thickness now. the test came out pretty near perfect, cutting the small window openings with a precision I cant manage with a sharp knife, next to find a piece of teak and repeat. I think I may need to use the bandsaw to cut out a piece from my bigger lump. anyway the model has moved to a position ready for wiring

Fred - this is the crux of the matter, even google street view blanks out certain parts- like house names and faces (and garage contents if the doors are open), but the difference in law was that he entered the private place (which since he repeatedly said it was private - he well knew,) and filmed, if he had just filmed from the entrance that is permitted, but the entry counts as trespass, and the filming invasion of privacy. similarly it is the same under drone regulations, fine if filming is done from a public space, as soon as you cross the boundary of a property, then it becomes illegal. if you are on private property, you either need the permission of the owners, and anyone filmed has to sign a acceptance clause before it can be published.

Plain relieved, next is fitting them to the model and running the wiring harnesses, there is still some soldering to be done, as in particular the deck lights have to be threaded through the sides before further wiring can be done, I am considering using the brass tubing to give a smooth lining to the holes through the sides similar to those for the cockpit lights. but to do all this the model needs to be on the workbench, so I have to tidy that again before I can start. at least I now have a plan and strategy in my head as to how to proceed, this task has been blocking my progress for way too long, think of it as a sort of writers block, but in this case a modellers block, something that has to be worked through before you can once again make progress.

maybe the boat shed users should approach Richardsons to renew the signage and add photography to the restrictions specifically to avoid future repeats of this behaviour. or with Richardsons approval club together to get a sign made up stating such. yes its only a civil offence, but such notice would be enough to enforce action as removal of similar videos.

I believe it is still against the law to take photographs without permission whilst on private property (different case if it can be seen from an area of public access) http://www.photographers-resource.co.uk/photography/Legal/Access_Rights.htm#:~:text=There is no general restriction,property from a public place.

its particularly bad as he actually says its a private boatyard, indicating he knew it was private (at 5:28 and again at 6.22) if enough people report it as an invasion of privacy then youtube will be duty bound to take it down

the one that will fit under Potter Heigham Bridge

a 'One D Ten T' error

today my additional LEDs arrived in the post (I had found a british supplier at only twice the cost, but still cheap enough. I got a shock when opening the packet, the wiring was even thinner than the chinese supplier, it was just enameled copper wire instead of the plastic insulation used previously, still never mind, I know how to deal with small wires now. thus the final 2 deck lights were wired up

does this person not understand that his video is evidence of unlawful trespass on private property against himself, perhaps that should be pointed out to him- I seem to recall he did originally promise to remove the video.

ok I have placed some thin brass tube through the hole to support the wiring into the back of the lights, then test fitted a lamp with 2 layers of heat shrink through the tubing into the light fitting, then a test of a lamp glass with a light - the brass tube helps concentrate the light into the fitting without overspill out of the back or through the ply of the bulkhead. you can just see the ends of the brass tube sticking out of the bulkhead behind the lamps. finally a close up shot of the lamp with the heat shrink and brass tube.

from my quote above they will have the power to raise public space protection orders (in consultation with the local authority, I am not sure this means they will have enforcement duties other than those related to enforcing the bylaws.

either that or they have been reading the EDP

the necessary champher and the lights, you can see the difference would be instantly noticeable

thats funny that they have picked up on this , all it says is that the rangers would be given additional powers to enforce the bylaws, eg on the spot fines, nothing about handling anti social behaviour, that would to me still be in the remit of Broads Beat, still when has the truth ever deterred the press. the anti social behaviour part (quoted below), is in regard to public space protection orders, and would only be used in consultation with local authorities, the penalty notices are in regard to bylaw infringements. (which I would guess is overstaying on 24 hour moorings and speeding mostly)

today dawns with 2 new issues, first my LED's have arrived, the problem is they are a warm white, not a bluish one like the previous batch, not an issue for the cabin lights, but I have 4 deck lights to do, and only 2 blue white bulbs, nothing for it but to order some more, not warm white ones, and hope for the best when these arrive several weeks down the line, the other option was to populate one side of the boat with blue white, and the other with warm white, but it will be noticeable. the next issue was with the placement of the cabin lights, these needed to go on the bulkhead behind the seating, but, the seating brings half the floor with it when removed, and clears the bulkhead and roof- just, not enough spare for the lights to go and the sofa clear them, I needed a few precious millimetres., a light champher sanded at the front of the sofa gave me some extra clearance and now the seating can be removed around the lights, its a complex manouver, but its just possible, you lift until the floor clears the other section, then slide toward the middle of the boat, twisting slightly, then it will clear one light, and because its twisted, just leave space for the other. so the cockpit lights are now in place the other two arent as much of an issue, thould the ships wheel may have to move slightly toward the centre of the boat to allow the spokes of the wheel to clear the light, its tight in that corner.

the large proportion of the standing charge goes towards DUOS (Distribution Use of Service) which means that you are paying the owners of the wires that your electricity travels down, so you pay some to the national grid, some to the electricity provider, some to the Network operator (main networks and independent networks. for my company this is where a large portion of our revenue comes in, it may only be about £30 a year income for us but its from every customer fed by our network, and it carries on as long as electricity is being supplied to that customer, no matter who supplies it. (in return we maintain those wires and reconnect them if there is a fault or damage, as well as any substations etc thta are in use) this is one of the reasons that some of the really cheap electricity providers went bust, they were providing the electricity so cheaply and were not paying the distribution networks their cut, so when they were suddenly asked to pay it, they realised they had priced it too cheaply and were making a loss on it, so dont blame the economy for their demise, they were just trying to cheat the people supplying the electricity to them and the network owners from their cut. oops sorry for the further divergence of this topic.

I have a couple of the Lidls special, lithium jump starter battery packs, and have to say they do work, I used one the other day to jump a neighbours car that had developed a flat battery. I pack one when I travel to the boat, for just these situations

if going by a car, a volvo v70 2002 diesel is a good bet as its a similar size to a boat domestic battery, avoid the AGM batteries