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grendel

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Everything posted by grendel

  1. I know vices, and now stools in the workshop, its no wonder I get filthy when working in there.
  2. fixing in the wood supports for the motor and half shaft.
  3. picture of the new feet on my stools
  4. with care dissasembling you should be able to re- use the bolt part with one of the above bearings, I would imagine the bolt part could be tapped through the bearings in the wheel and then cleaned up and put into the new bearing roller.
  5. they do them with v grooves as well - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Precision-Acetal-Pulley-Wheel-with-90-V-groove-Guiding-Rail-Sliding-Mechanism-/171950297737
  6. these have the bolt. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/362055875007?chn=ps&dispItem=1&adgroupid=43106429403&rlsatarget=pla-325869832768&abcId=1128926&adtype=pla&merchantid=10075494&poi=&googleloc=1006602&device=c&campaignid=857233083&crdt=0 this has a 10mm hole. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/35mmx10mmx11mm-Nylon-U-Groove-Bearing-Pulley-Sliding-Converyor-Wheel-White/302422937856?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D7a00de3357ba43d592f68a8f2cc7c295%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D362055875007&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598
  7. looking at them, it would appear that if you undo the nut and take the whole thing off, the nylon bit would just slide off the nut end. looks like the inside should look something like this - http://www.vxb.com/Round-Nylon-Pulley-U-Groove-Track-Bearing-BU0832-p/8x32-ugroove-pulley-bearing.htm these are a bit bigger diameter - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-50-12mm-Pulley-Plastic-Rope-Wheel-Round-Sealed-Accessories-Nylon-Guide-Rail-/311899805255 these dont have the groove http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bathroom-Nylon-Pulley-Shield-Ball-Bearings-Wheel-Roller-Choose-Size-/361864522663 though these may be spot on - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U-V-Grooved-Ball-Bearings-Metal-Shield-Nylon-Pulley-Wheels-Wire-Guide-Roller-/361777816322
  8. OOh I think I might know someone, a lot depends on the load they will need to take, if they are just guides, then they should be fine
  9. parkside tools are quite good, I too have a good selection of them.
  10. thats one metabo (getting old now with a switch that is starting to get dodgy- and is no longer available - 2 powerbase (with lead acid batteries- on their last legs), 2 maplin drill and 1 right - a makita
  11. that reminds me - I need to go get my big pillar drill from my mother in laws garage, and some of my other large vices (no not those vices - the ones used for holding things in the workshop ( hmm well I suppose some of those other vices could do that too)). I am already suffering from Timbo's Tardis problem, I am running out of space to put my tools, now I am gathering them back into the fold - still if I tidy the other half of the conservatory out, I could expand into there (at least this has allowed the indoor kitchen table model shop to be used for the less messy jobs that are best done inside in the warm). So small tool storage solutions are the next order of business, somewhere to store my reamers. Now this workshop is up and running things will get shunted around to improve the storage, and then labelled so I can find things.I have a whole lot of storage tubs, but need to find a place they can be stacked, & labelled so access is easy (here I am thinking of a framework that the tubs can slide into so I dont have to unstack them to get to one. I already have a stack of 3 building up (one for brass, one for aluminium, and one for steel materials) you can see some of the tubs sitting under the bench and on a stool in some of the pictures above. I am thinking that when the big pillar drill arrives, it will replace the trolley in the corner (it will have castors added) and provide some storage underneath too, as well as maybe space alongside, the big drill is not a full floor standing one, but needs a low bench to bring the table to a comfortable height (it probably will need stripping down and de-rusting too).
  12. tonight in the workshop the stools received new bungs on the ends of the legs, the old ones had worn through so the metal was scuffing my nice floor. 3 hours printing last night gave me a new set of bungs on the ends of the legs.
  13. the motor bracket has now been drilled, and everything is lined up ready to be packed and fixed in place.
  14. maybe its a dodgy seal. http://img51.laughinggif.com/pic/HTTP3N0cmVhbTEuZ2lmc291cC5jb20vdmlldzcvMzcxMjY4OC9zZWFsLWNsYXBwaW5nLW8uZ2lm.gif
  15. this morning the weather stopped any outside work, so it was workshop time, I moved the last section of wall racking in and reshuffled the bins, labeling them as I went along.
  16. this universal coupling has pushed the motor back a bit further into the forrard compartment, but thats not really a problem, to get this working right.
  17. ok so trial fit into the model, and manufacture of the mounts to hold all the parts, motor tested with shaft and accessories in place, free running current 0.45A, driving the prop - 1.0A. we have the 35mm prop on, and this time the prop shaft support has had the extra leg soldered directly to the hub, so we should have no vibration there either,
  18. so its been a busy day today, trips to parents and generally running around until 3pm, then out to the workshop, model #2 accompanied me out there, looking at the (not fixed yet) prop shaft, this allows me a bit more space under the model - enough maybe to get the bigger prop in, but this seems to have been achieved at the expense of the space inside, the prop shaft is quite tight to the bottom of the hull, now with the original motor this wouldnt have been an issue, but with the bigger motor it is a problem. also, as I am pushing the prop further back nearer the rudder, the shaft inside is shorter. Time to get creative, my silicon tube could take up the difference, but I really would be losing power into the coupling. OK my box of bits comes out, there is the remains of a nitro powered car in there - 4 wheel drive, complete with cv joints and half shafts, well I could use 2 sliding couplings, but I want to get one of these cv joints in there, the brass splined couplings used in the standard boat joints was a perfect fit into the ends of the half shaft couplings. how to get the drive from the output of the cv joint to the prop shaft, well the standard coupling goes through a pin into a hub the wheel bolts to, well happily the same end I fitted to the motors splined fitting, fits to the prop shaft end, and slides onto the axle end of the cv joint over the locating pin for the wheels hub. I could just use these two fittings and a half shaft, but wheres the fun in that. this also means the motor can be mounted off line with the prop shaft. in one of those pictures below, the motor is running full chat without a problem, despite the prop shaft and motor being way out of alignment, next job, working out how I will fit it into the boat.
  19. yesterday I had a stroke of luck, the builders at work had just finished laying the flooring for the new toilets, and outside was the end of a roll and a decent offcut, after asking the boss of the builders I came away with the offcut and the promise of whatever was left after the had finished. So last night modelling time was used to lay the flooring I had got, along with the piece of cork flooring I got last week at the boot fair, I now have a decent floor, better than bare concrete, and easier to clean. softer on the feet too. this is a good grade industrial flooring, so should last well, and the tools on wheels should roll around easier. there is just one bare bit left to sort out.
  20. Ah Griff - How cruel you are - surely she must spend all her time trying to spot the pheasants falling out of the sky, and there are none to fetch - then again thinking about it, maybe she doesnt expect that many to be falling from the sky, with your shooting
  21. your map is missing the Norfolk Broads, surely by now its been annexed by Yorkshire.
  22. I dont think its knot holes, looks like somethings dripped on it.
  23. I think its time we all calmed down and agreed to disagree in the way we normally do, I can see this is a controversial issue, and one there is probably no right or wrong answer to that we can all agree on. I think it all depends upon how we grew up- country- city or whatever, we all have different opinions, so lets leave it there, agree that the bonfire owner was maybe a bit inconsiderate (after all we dont have his side of the story) but definitely should not have gone off and left it unattended, and leave it there before we all get upset more than we are already.
  24. while somebody having a bonfire can be inconvenient, it is not at present illegal (provided you dont cause a nuisance as defined on the link I provided) Unless you are burning something that is not allowed it takes more than 1 bonfire to qualify as a nuisance. I agree that when you have windows open or washing on the line it is not pleasant, that is why it is good to check before starting a bonfire, some of the people round our way will go out of their way to warn you they will be having a barbecue, others just go ahead and light it. the consequences of banning such things are great - we will just cancel bonfire night then, no more november 5th. the thing that is lacking nowadays is the common sense and common decency, not to cause problems for others. I can remember my parents waiting days to have a bonfire to ensure that none of the neighbours had their washing out or windows open, some people dont have that consideration for others nowadays. similarly the neighbours realised that once the bonfire was started it would only go on so long and delayed putting their washing on the line if they saw a neighbour had started a bonfire. a bit of give and take all ways.
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