Water Pump Faulty, Help Please.

[Vaughan]

8 hours ago, MauriceMynah said:

10 hours ago, Vaughan said:

If you have two they will just interfere with each other.

Lucky Pumps !!!

Now tell me headmaster : do your boys and girls share the same curriculum?

No, we had separate ones built.

Peter Sellers.

[mjt]

21 hours ago, floydraser said:

As for removing it... is there a bomb disposal expert on the forum? Which wire do I cut first?

If it were me I would remove it. On both of the boats we've owned I needed to strip out a lot of redundant stuff left by previous installers most of which showed a shocking lack of basic knowledge of electrics. Sorry I can't help with which wire to cut, it's not possible to work out the connections from your photos .

Seriously, though, I don't think it's difficult. Leave the red wire from the pump pressure switch connected to the brown from the spiral wrap. Find the black wire that should be coming from the motor and connect it to the blue from the spiral wrap, if it isn't already. Junk everything else.

We all know old boats accumulate a lot of useless stuff over time. Removing it makes things much tidier and hence it's much easier to diagnose problems when they crop up.

[Vaughan]

27 minutes ago, mjt said:

Sorry I can't help with which wire to cut, it's not possible to work out the connections from your photos .

Seriously, though, I don't think it's difficult. Leave the red wire from the pump pressure switch connected to the brown from the spiral wrap. Find the black wire that should be coming from the motor and connect it to the blue from the spiral wrap, if it isn't already. Junk everything else.

I have had a good look at the photo again and I quite agree.

[mjt]

@floydraser I managed to find a manual that appears to be the right one for your pump model. This states it should not be used with an accumulator.

[floydraser]

3 hours ago, mjt said:

@floydraser I managed to find a manual that appears to be the right one for your pump model. This states it should not be used with an accumulator.

Thanks for that Mike but I think my bypass valve must be faulty. Back in 2019 on page 7 of my restoration thread I discuss a pulsating waterworks problem at low flow rate. The pump set up was as it is now and fitting the accumulator cured the problem, and it's been fine since. Maybe I should have stripped the pump and given it a good clean, if such a thing is possible? Handy to know it's ok to run dry as I use it to purge the water heater when I leave the boat.

[floydraser]

On 16/05/2024 at 15:43, Vaughan said:

I have had a good look at the photo again and I quite agree.

You've got me going through the files now out of curiosity, look what I found:

Interesting. 

[Vaughan]

6 hours ago, mjt said:

This states it should not be used with an accumulator.

So it is one of those that run at variable speed, according to the pressure?  Which is why Floydraser says it sometimes makes growling noises?

In which case, it was designed to do away with a pressure vessel.   I must say, I have had hire boats fitted with these and we didn't find them very reliable.  Those 4 little valves to the diaphragm chamber will easily collect small impurities in the water and jam open.  Even if you have an in-line filter.  They are also very vulnerable to frost damage.  We found we had to take them off the boat every winter and take them apart to service them.

[Vaughan]

3 hours ago, floydraser said:

 

Very interesting.  Further to the right of your picture, the diagram should show where the brown wire from the Godwin goes to, and might explain how the delay timer works.

Notice there are only two wires to the Godwin, as it has its own integral pressure switch.

No 14 must be that cluster of wires all bolted to the floor under the pump!

[floydraser]

16 hours ago, Vaughan said:

Very interesting.  Further to the right of your picture, the diagram should show where the brown wire from the Godwin goes to, and might explain how the delay timer works.

Notice there are only two wires to the Godwin, as it has its own integral pressure switch.

No 14 must be that cluster of wires all bolted to the floor under the pump!

The growling noises were due to the low voltage caused by the chargers tripping out alowing the fridge to drain the batteries.

However, the brown wire goes back to a terminal block then sheet 3. On sht3 it goes to the freshwater pump switch on the dash then via the domestic battery ammeter to the positive side of the battery.

Mike has very kindly sent me a pdf of the full manual so I'm going to leave things alone for now while I do the more important work of stopping the rainwater leaks, then dial in the job of tidying up the wiring and stripping the pump. Or, do they make quiet pumps these days so I could just swap it and keep a spare?

[Regulo]

I note that on the pump body there is a note saying "for marine applications replace with Jabsco . . .". Is there a difference in the pumps? I had a variable speed pump on Sunbird, which this seems to be, and found it remarkably reliable, and gave domestic type performance on the boat. No switching on and off, and smooth delivery at all tap demands. Wish I had fitted one years before I did. 

[floydraser]

So now I've had a chance to have a look at what's available it appears Jabsco and Flojet are the same outfit, both have branded pumps with Flojet being the more expensive, and therefore better?

Two service kits for mine, diaphragm and valve for around £50 the two.

Equivalent Jabsco pump new, £120 from Wards - discount. New Flojet £170.

BUT - pulsating water flow was one of the earliest problems with the boat and fitting the accumulator definitely solved it. I notice in the troubleshooting section of the manual it says pulsating is caused by restricted outflow. Well yes, when I don't want the tap on full blast!

Are there boats which use a similar system to caravans? A small submersible pump which provides an adequate but lower flow, and far quieter.

[OldBerkshireBoy]

On a boat of that vintage I would be wary of fitting a more powerful pump unless you are prepared to replace all hoses and fittings.

[annv]

Hi Floyd If you want to make the pump quieter you need a flexible hose between the tank and mount the pump on rubber feet/mat, this will stop the pump echo being magnified by the metal tank and hull of the boat. It would also be beneficial to soak the terminal stud that all the earth/neg wires go to with WD30 or similar. this connection looks very dry and corroid along with the terminals of the pump, this will make removing any wires a lot easier at a later date. John

[Smoggy]

Having a wiring diagram is very handy, here's the one for my boat.