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Mooring Rope

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We went for a variety of rope lengths, the bow lines are a few meters longer than the boat.. Aft lines are only 5 meters though but we have one long line at about 15 meters I think for use as a spring/Spin the boat around line etc. 


Most of the river depths we have seen (although only down south) have been about 15 feet. If you intend using it as an emergency brake on the rivers I'd probably go to about 20 feet just in case. I guess most of the hire fleet is rather on the shorter side though. 

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Steer clear of polypropylene ropes, they are nothing more than thicker bailing string.

One season in the sun and they harden, split and delaminate, and leave sharp shards that will cut into your hands..

Now on our Viking 23, we have a bow line each side, over 10 metres long, with a home spliced loop at each end.

They are tied off fore and aft, so when you go ashore, you have complete control of the boat.

First I tie the bow to a post, ( unless the current is in the wrong direction, then it's the stern first ) then run it back to the stern cleat, then onto a post astern. This automatically sets a spring line in the middle.

I then run a spare line from the offside stern cleat to the post ashore, which pulls the boat in nicely.

This arrangement, if arranged correctly, allows for good tidal ranges and allows the boat to remain parallel to the bank despite the direction of the current.

Re The mud weight line, it needs to be braided, preferably a sinking line, a minimum of 30 feet long. The depth of water in the lower Bure, can be 12 feet deep, although some hirecraft prefer to run aground on an ebbing tide on inside bends.

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Thick bow and stern lines both sides, attached to cleats and coiled, held by life-ring brackets on the guardrail.  


Length: 1.5 time the boat length.  


Use: bow/stern line then back to centre cleat as springs.  Quick, easy, secure. 


Removed and kept in lockers when at sea..!

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