Mooring Rope

[macroft1]

Can any of you knowledgeable people on here advise me what length mooring ropes I need for my boat?

 

It's an 18.5' Norman.

 

Regards.

Mark.

[MauriceMynah]

I tend to favour ropes just a tad longer than the boat, but do remember to keep them away from the prop!

[macroft1]

I tend to favour ropes just a tad longer than the boat, but do remember to keep them away from the prop!

Thanks.

 

What length would you suggest for the mudweight rope?

 

Regards.

Mark.

[MauriceMynah]

About the same, perhaps 15' wouldn't go any shorter!

[JawsOrca]

We went for a variety of rope lengths, the bow lines are a few meters longer than the boat.. Aft lines are only 5 meters though but we have one long line at about 15 meters I think for use as a spring/Spin the boat around line etc. 

 

Most of the river depths we have seen (although only down south) have been about 15 feet. If you intend using it as an emergency brake on the rivers I'd probably go to about 20 feet just in case. I guess most of the hire fleet is rather on the shorter side though. 

[Matt]

Just remember if you ropes slip overboard whilst underway the stern ones will most likely drag behind you, bow ones will wrap around the propeller if long enough.

[Baitrunner]

Just got back from a week on Turkish Gullet - very impressed - they had what must have been 100m stern lines of floating rope (about 20-25mm) - having seen it in action definitely worth the investment. may go for shorter ones though.

[DaveRolaves]

We have found it best to get polyester ropes, the rope always remains soft and pliable and is easy to splice. Nylon ropes are ok at first but after time go hard and not pliable. Dave R..............

 

[Viking23]

Steer clear of polypropylene ropes, they are nothing more than thicker bailing string.

One season in the sun and they harden, split and delaminate, and leave sharp shards that will cut into your hands..

Now on our Viking 23, we have a bow line each side, over 10 metres long, with a home spliced loop at each end.

They are tied off fore and aft, so when you go ashore, you have complete control of the boat.

First I tie the bow to a post, ( unless the current is in the wrong direction, then it's the stern first ) then run it back to the stern cleat, then onto a post astern. This automatically sets a spring line in the middle.

I then run a spare line from the offside stern cleat to the post ashore, which pulls the boat in nicely.

This arrangement, if arranged correctly, allows for good tidal ranges and allows the boat to remain parallel to the bank despite the direction of the current.

Re The mud weight line, it needs to be braided, preferably a sinking line, a minimum of 30 feet long. The depth of water in the lower Bure, can be 12 feet deep, although some hirecraft prefer to run aground on an ebbing tide on inside bends.

[Liberty]

Thick bow and stern lines both sides, attached to cleats and coiled, held by life-ring brackets on the guardrail.  

 

Length: 1.5 time the boat length.  

 

Use: bow/stern line then back to centre cleat as springs.  Quick, easy, secure. 

 

Removed and kept in lockers when at sea..!

[macroft1]

Thanks.

 

What diameter?

 

I was thinking 12mm.

 

Regards.

Mark.

[Baitrunner]

12mm minimum. Not from a strength perspective, but handling with cold wet hands is easier than thin ropes.

Depending on the size of your cleats though as if they are small a large diameter rope will be a pain to lock off.

[DaveRolaves]

12mm or 14mm would be about right. 16mm is an overkill. Thinner rope is difficult to handle.