Karizma

From one Yorkshire man to another ......keeping everything crossed for MrsGs Bro, Shaun to pull through. It always amazes me when family pull together and takes on roles / tasks to make sure everything possible gets done to achieve what's needed #impressive

Don't want to hi-jack @Bikertov great thread, but could I ask: how do you change the tick over speed on a Nanni (4.190HE) as I've always thought mines ticking over a little fast? I've read there's to typical methods depending on what engine you have - adjusting the cable length at the throttle linkage (which sounds easy), or adjusting a screw(?) on the fuel pump (which sounds scary)?

Only 7 foot clearance at high tide at Potter Heigham bridge .......... those were the days!

Hopefully a good thing, as its the same as the one in my boat. I'm told they are pretty much bullet proof and you just need to change the oil regularly to keep them it good. you can down load the workshop manual off the internet - but if you cant find a copy I can send you one. I also think you might have a Centaflex M-160 coupling on the end of the gearbox - again same as mine Enjoy exploring the rest of your new boat.

Well I think I've found the answer to my own question ! So for those that might have a Nanni 4.190HE engine and a pump similar to mine - I've just downloaded the Nanni 4.190HE catalogue and it quotes the raw water pump as a Johnson F5B-9 and when you search for a Shaft Seal for an F5B its dimensions are : Outer Diameter 28mm, Inner Diameter 15, Width 7mm So thats why the outer diameter of the Jabsco shaft seal (29mm outer diameter) didn't fit the housing, and maybe why the seal I put in back in Feb 2022 started leaking after 400 taco hours (was 16mm internal diameter and should have been 15mm). Not sure if a Johnson F5B-9 is an earlier version of the Jabsco 3270-271 raw water pump and thats why mine has a Jabsco cover plate? At least I know what to order next time !!!! Hope this helps somebody else.

Hi Vaughan ..... Sure was - the other side was worn just as badly, so well overdue a replacement. Thankfully it now has one and should allow the pump to work so much better. No. It's a Nanni - 4.190HE. I'm now hoping this is set up slightly differently to what you've described with the Perkins?

Talking of raw water pumps - I (think) have a Jabsco 3270-271 raw water pump on Karizma and in Feb 2022 (with taco reading 456 hours) I replaced the raw water Shaft Seal as the previous one had started leaking water. I can't quite remember how I got the size of the Seal (might have been just by checking the dimensions of the one I removed) but I replaced it with a 'DPSM 16x28x7mm seal with Stainless Steel Garter Spring' from a bearing supplier off the internet. Wind the clock forward to last month and I noticed that it had started leaking again after exactly 400 taco hours of engine running (taco now reading 856 hours). So it was time to strip it down again and give it a service. This time I thought I'd purchase an OEM Jabsco Shaft Seal (SP2701-21), as I didn't think the replacement I used lasted as long as I'd expected, and at the same time I thought I'd also 'treat' the pump to a new 'Wear Plate' (Jabsco 7883) and 'End Cover Face Plate' (Jabsco 11830) as these were worn. Now the Wear Plate and End Cover Face Plate fitted perfectly, but I could not get the Jabsco Shaft Seal to fit - as it was too big to fit into the pump housing (though it fitted round the shaft). After a little investigating here's what I've found: The Jabsco Shaft Seal has dimensions of 15x29x8mm (where as the one I took out is 16x28x7mm) The diameter of the shaft (taken from the Jabsco schematic rather than measuring mine, which I should have done!) is 16mm - i.e 1mm larger than the Jabsco Shaft Seal dimension - Is this normal to make sure you get a good seal? The one I'd put in before (and have just taken out) was 16x28x7mm - i.e the same size as the diameter of the shaft - Could it be that the reason it had started leaking? Any ideas why the OEM part wouldn't fit in the housing? Could there be another version of the pump that has a slightly smaller bore? (I was putting lots of force on it to try and get it in and it would't go!) Could the original face plate which shows it to be a Jabsco 3270-271 be the wrong one?

Bikertov - thanks for the comment Trust me I'm no electrician, I'd class myself as an experienced diy'er (as I hate paying somebody to do something I could do myself #yorkshireman ) ................. but I believe if you take your time mapping out what you currently have, spend time researching marine electrical YouTube videos (to get best practise) and follow some relatively simple guidelines (fuse sizes, wire thicknesses etc), then you could, like me, have a go at this yourself. The benefits are that you get to understand your boat so much better and are more able to trouble shoot in the future. But, lets wait till I've finished before I get too carried away !!!!

The next visit to the boat was to upgrade the DC distribution fuse board(s) so I could replace all the old Garland fuses with 'blade type' fuses. I decided to install 2 x Blue Sea Fuse Blocks that use ST Blade fuses, which allows me to have dedicated fuses for each circuit and eliminate all the 'doubling up' of wires to 1 Garland fuse, as there wasn't enough fuse holders available with the old system! Still a little tidying up to do with the wires, but it doesn't look too bad These new domestic fuse blocks are 'fed' via a domestic isolation switch that is connected to a Victron Energy 6-Way Mega Fuse Holder with Busbar, again this makes sure that every cable is protected by a Mega fuse. Also connected to this is the output from the 2 x DC-DC chargers (60 amp fuses), and the DC feed to the Inverter (200 amp fuse). It was also time to install the Victron Smart Shunt and make sure this was the only connection between this and the negative terminal on the domestic battery bank. I'm really looking forward to seeing how this works and get a good understanding of the power usage, and capacity left in the domestic battery bank at any point in time, something thats just been guess work up to now. I've also decided to take on board the advice given by Dom (thanks Dom ) and install an addition separate battery to connect the 2nd alternator to; and then take a feed from this for the 2nd DC-DC charger. This will provide a level of redundancy (compared to them both being connected to the same circuit) if one of the alternators stopped working due to a short circuit, and prevents any potential issues between the two alternators - so this will be done next time we are down. Getting there slowly ........

PS: sorry to hear of your loss.

Hi Smoggy - I use to have my PPL - its a Flight Computer used for working out flight tracking and being able to offset wind effects. Something like this .......... https://www.flightstore.co.uk/product/pooleys-crp-1-flight-computer-560

what's wrong with it? We have an Eberspatcher Airtronic D4 that wasn't working very well when we bought the boat (smoking a lot and kept cutting out), so I took it out and stripped it down, bought a D4 service kit, diesel filter, glow plug tool remover, heater gasket from various places (cost about £50 in total) cleaned the combustion chamber out (coked up) and put it all back together - been working a treat for the last 2 years. Lots of videos on-line showing you how to do it - very easy to do in the end.

Yes.

Thanks for this Dom, I'll give that some thought wrt maybe monitoring what happens in practice. Agreed. Yes, this is certainly a risk (as well as fusing the alternator cables - which some don't do), maybe unlikely, but certainly there for sure. Yes, one of my draft designs did have the 2nd alternator connected to a 'dummy' battery that was just sat there to connect the alternator and the 2nd DC-DC charger - never thought of using it to power an individual appliance - doh !!! I might re-consider this as an option going forward. Thanks again for the comments.

One of the 'tricky' decisions that I had to make was how do I get dedicated profile charging to the new AGM batteries from 2 standard alternators? Wiring one of the alternators to the engine battery and then connecting one of the DC-DC chargers from that battery to the AGM's would be fine, but how do I connect the 2nd alternator to the AGMs when you aren't suppose to connect DC-DC chargers directly to alternators? Argofet battery isolators? Battery combiners? upgrading the regulators on the back of the alternators? Researching the internet i found lots of examples from the automotive guys where they were adding 2nd alternators directly to their starter batteries to provide more charging capacity for supporting large sound systems. Would this have the potential to 'over charge' the engine battery? So after a lot of head scratching, I've decided to wire both 55amp alternators to the Engine battery (via an un-switched distribution board) and then wire the two 30amp DC-DC chargers from the engine battery to be the AGMs. This should provide up to a maximum of 60 amps to the domestic battery bank - it will be interesting to see what I do get. Anybody got any thoughts on what they would do?

Before I started installing more new hardware, the Sterling inverter was the last thing to remove from the boat; this was still in good working order but I couldn't resist upgrading to a 1600 watt Pure Sine Wave inverter that complemented the rest of the new Victron hardware (the old one is a Quasi Sine Wave unit delivering 1500 watts). This was a relatively easy task, though I did replace the positive and negative DC cabling with 50 mm² wire (as per the manufacturers instructions, as the inverter was less than 5m from the batteries) and also replaced the 240volt supply and distribution cabling with 2.5mm Blue Arctic cables. I also made sure I earthed the inverter casing using a cable size one less than the DC cabling (which ended up being 40 mm²), which might be a little 'overkill' but my research uncovered that a guy called Nigel Calder (highly respected marine electrician) had done a lot of work to prove that 'if all went wrong' then the earth cable could in theory have to take a lot of amperage! Now it was time to start putting things back......... After the new inverter the next thing to install was the new Engine battery distribution boards (one switched and one un-switched). The Switched distribution circuit (using a Victron Energy Lynx Distributor) would be supplying the Engine, Bow thruster and Windlass, and the Un-switched distribution board (using a Victron Energy 250 amp 6-Way Mega Fuse Holder With Busbar) would be for the 2 Alternators, and the inputs to the two Orion-Tr Smart 12/12V-30A Non-Isolated DC-DC Chargers. With space being a premium, we spent a lot of time trying to work out where everything was going to go, and where needed, plywood was used to produce new mounting surfaces. For the first time, this would mean that every cable, from the Engine battery to the appliance(s) on these circuits were protected with an appropriate Mega fuse - one of my aims when I started this project. Next would be to start on the Domestic circuits ...........

Dom, just been reading this again and maybe don't understand the significance of this paragraph. Can you expand / explain please?

Yes I've heard that. I've even seen folks putting PC fans behind the heatsink to force cool them, to keep the performance up. Only time will tell.

I went through exactly the same process, which started about 18 months ago. Many hours watching different YouTube opinions on how you should wire a boat up and what equipment does what. The two YouTube channels that are my 'go to' channels have ended up being 'Pacific Yacht Systems' & 'Narrowboat Electrician' - a great source of info, when you know nothing about marine electrics - like me! Yes I'm 'all in' now - No going back. And yes I'm really looking forward to the point when I get to link everything together with the Cerbo-s GX & the GX Touch screen

Thanks Dom. Yes you are right, and as you might have read in my initial post I'm wanting to better understand the 'condition' of my house bank by installing a shunt, and a smart profile charging system. Interestingly enough my original setup also included a Adverc battery management device which seems to 'boost' the output of the alternators. I've currently disabled this until I've finished the upgrades, to decide if I remove it completely from the system as it seems really 'dated' technology now. So now I've taken out the battery isolators and combiners, I plan to install 2 x 30amp Victron DC to DC smart chargers that will be fed by 2 x 55amp alternators coming off the Engine battery - so I'm hoping a maximum of 60amp (ish) being available directly to the AGMs, all supported by the dedicated charging profiles from the DC-DC chargers. One things for sure, these AGMs aren't the cheapest, so I want to take care of them! Thanks again for the insight. Steve

Wonder when they changed that - I moored up there late last season for a couple of hours and they only charged me abt £3, which I thought was very reasonable. Its obviously getting really difficult to moor up at PH now a days since we lost the quiet moorings - which is a real shame.

Thanks John. I did buy some dialectric silicone grease ages ago but haven't used it yet as I was concerned it might get a bit 'messy' over time with dirt sticking to it? - Though the battery boxes do have lids on them to protect the batteries / terminals. I've already started making up the new battery cables (70mm² cables with new 8mm hoe dia terminals) all of equal length as per your 'suitable for most applications' diagram, for the 4x110Ah Victron Energy AGM Dual Purpose batteries that are going in - should be enough domestic power going forward (hopefully!) Steve

Next task is to disconnect all the batteries and remove the 2 house banks (1 bank of 2 batteries supplying the inverter & 1 bank of 2 supplying all the domestic circuits) - it does look a mess down there! This would then allow me to start removing 2 old 'diode type' Battery Isolators which are apparently very inefficient compared to the new Argofet ones (though I won't be replacing them going forward in the new wiring design) And 3 Battery Combiners (2 Victron Energy Cyrix 12/24v 100 amp & 1 Nagares 12v 100 amp), which again won't be needed in the new design. I get the feeling this is the point of 'No Return' !!!!!

wow - that's good going

Yes, road works at night are a right pain. When travelling at night, I've started going down the A1 to Cambridge (rather than A17/A47) and then cross on the A14 - longer route but faster roads so not much in it in the end (though I'm heading for Beccles rather than Stalham).