Karizma

correct its not a top hanger. interesting note regarding bronze washers as the bottom bracket that the rudder shaft sits on is bronze (see attached)- but the mating face, on the rudder, is either steel or stainless steel (I'm assuming steel as its corroding away). Maybe thats an additional 'upgrade' for the future as I've now ordered a SS replacement - unless you think this might now cause me an issue?

yes both grub screws came out easy. didn't have the ability to heat it up at the same time unfortunately - maybe I should think about trying this before machining it out......... yes, based on your advice, I've arranged for the prop to be refurbed / balanced next week to make sure the job gets done right - then I'll align the prop shaft to the engine when the boat goes back in the water. Another 'first' for me when I get to that point ! cheers,

Yes looks as though it might not have been changed in a very long time - or maybe never! Seems to have 'corroded' itself to the bronze housing as it just chips away in very small pieces with a chisel, after first trying to push it out in a 10 tonne press and it not moving at all. Plan B is talking it to a good friends machine shop in Ipswich next week to let him do his 'magic' on it.

Great as always to log on and see so many comments / advice - thank you. The rudder did have an 50mm disc anode attached (not sure if it was zinc or Al) and had deteriorated quite badly so I guess it had done its job nicely (though I have no idea how long it had been on the boat before we brought her). This is now being replaced with an 70mm aluminium flange anode with a stainless steel fixing screw & nut (following a search of previous comments on this forum ). WRT the question raised regarding the spacer/metal washer at the bottom of the rudder shaft - following more researching last night I managed to find a supplier that sells SS shim washers (45mm x 32mm x 2mm) which looks exacting what I need to replace the one that's corroded / partially missing at the bottom of the shaft. And based on the posts above it looks like this is what I need considering similar / dissimilar metals. Making progress ...... slowly PS: Replacing the cutlass bearing is proving more difficult that expected; well getting the old one out!). More on that to follow .....

As I ended up taking the rudder off the boat to remove the outboard bearing I thought i'd give it a good sand down / repaint. Nice easy job for the afternoon I thought............ and have uncovered another slight issue (no surprise there then, after all it is boating!). See photo attached - Looks as though there has been a spacer/metal washer? bush? between the base of the rudder shaft and the lower bracket thats started to corrode away (about 40% of the circumference missing ); I assume this is to prevent wear at the base of the rudder shaft? I assume i'd be better off removing the rest of the remaining 'spacer' and get another one so I don't start wearing out the (brass?) housings that the rudder shaft goes into top and bottom due to alignment issues. Am I on the right track? what do you think the 'spacer' is made of? SS? Any idea where you can get them from? Thanks as alway for any guidance provided. Steve

yes, checked the threads afterwards and they were ok - though I never thought I might damage them whilst I was doing the job with a mechanical puller.

Thought I'd give you all an update on removing the outboard bearing this weekend ..... what a job !!!! Following the great advice from members of this forum, i knew what to expect and proceeded to: remove the prop - wow, this proved to be difficult, but cutting a long story short, I needed to remove the rudder to provide enough room for the puller to be placed on the prop. The prop still refused to move, until a little internet searching found a tip of pour boiling water over the prop whilst the puller was under tension - ping - off it came. outboard bearing removal - after removing the two bolts (top and bottom of the outboard bearing) and purchasing a large pipe wrench, we started rotating the outboard bearing - this started to also turn the shaft tube connected to the stuffing box, but now the thread seal was 'broken' I decided to carried on removing the outboard bearing (with the shaft tube attached). shaft tube removal - another trip to the local diy store to purchase another pipe wrench so I can hold the outboard bearing as well as the shaft tube to separate the two. The task took most of the day to remove, but would have been much quicker if I'd have had all the tools required before I started !! Still a lot of satisfaction once the job was done - all I need to do now is remove the cutlass bearing, purchase a replacement and put it all back together next weekend! Thanks again for all the guidance from this forum to allow me to attempt the task in the first place.

Thanks as always. I'll take another look at the tube stack ....... once I've replaced the cutlass bearing (hopefully this weekend) you advised me on! Cheers,

Hi Meantime - I'd be very interested in how you get on with changing the fresh water impeller and wether it made a difference. By the way - how did you identify it was showing significant signs of wear? did you strip it down or could you check it without stripping down? Cheers,

Vaughan - I'm interested in this insight as my engine doesn't like going over 2000rpm for very long (approx 10 minutes) before the temp starts rising and the temp alarm is triggered - not that it needs to very often apart from maybe when going through Yarmouth against the tide heading north. I've checked the tube rack in the heat exchanger and all seems good. My next check was going to be the exhaust elbow for some sort of restriction, and then the engines fresh water impeller that Meantime spoke about (though this would mean draining the engine coolant etc) but reading your post you have given me another option to think about...... I have a Nanni 4.190HE with a Jabsco ¾" (3270-271) raw water pump and it has a 12 blade impeller (see photo attached)- could I change the impeller for a 10 vane one and try that? or does the whole raw water pump need replacing to move to a 10 vane impeller? Note: Karizma was built in 1994 so I'm assuming the engine is original and therefore of a similar vintage. Cheers,

Not sure what car you have but I changed the back brake pads on my Mercedes (C220D) and once I realised I couldn't push the pistons in with a G clamp (its been a while since I serviced my own car!) I found 'the hack' on YouTube that allowed me to get into the 'maintenance menu' via the controls on the steering wheel, to tell it to withdraw the pistons - easy peasy after that. Here's the notes I took: Rear Brake pad fitting mode 1) Key in ignition – position 1 2) Handbrake off 3) Set screen to mileage 4) Press phone button & ok button together for 5 seconds 5) Select Brake pad replacement 6) Move to fitting position 7) Leave ignition on – fit brake pads 8) Once done – Exit fitting position – Press ok

Welcome to the forum and congrats on the restoration project. My fathers first boat was one of these (her name was TWIG, and as the story goes, she was owned by the landlord of The Wherry In Geldeston; hence the name. My boys were brought up on that boat; weekends, main summer holidays, when every we could, and certainly one of the main reasons we are still boating today. Lovey boats, handle really well. can't wait to see the photos ................

I hope I don't regret asking this ()..... but how do you check that you don't have anything draining to earth?

As always, this forum is great for pulling on the experiences of others. Thanks to Marge and Parge for sharing their experiences / potential concerns & to Vaughan for taking the time to share his knowledge of the different systems around and the little tips to get the job done right. PS: just searched for Boss White (pipe jointing compound) and its readily available from our local diy stores

this is what my 'stuffing box' looks like from inside the boat. Stern tube going to the prop on the left hand side of the photo.

Thanks for the warning - is there any way of knowing / working out which type I might have? or just be very careful and remain curious if things don't go as expected.

Thanks again - at least I now know what to expect - wish me luck!

thanks for the info Vaughan, if the outboard bearing is threaded to the shaft tube, should I expect the two threads / nuts shown in the photo to come completely out, allowing the outboard bearing to rotate?

We had Karizma taken out of the water at the weekend for the first time since she was returned to the Broads back in December 2020, for winter storage. I wasn't sure what to expect, but after doing a total of 490 engine running hours (most of then cruising) since she was put in the water, she was very clean underneath and looking good. After an initial look round, I've noticed some play in the cutlass bearing and so a replacement will be added to our winter maintenance list before she's put back in the water next year. Having never replaced a cutlass bearing before, can I assume that if I remove the prop (if the rudder doesn't get in the way!), and remove the two nuts shown in the attached photo, the cutlass bearing housing (not sure what it's called?) should pull away from the keel and slide along the shaft ? or is that far too easy and naive on my part? Any guidance would be appreciated. Steve

I have a Mercedes c220d and needed to replace the rear brake pads - all was good until I had to push the calliper pistons in, to make room for the new pads - could I get them to retract using a G clamp - not a chance. Went onto YouTube and hey presto - secret 'maintenance menu' accessible by pressing a few buttons in a certain order to retract the pistons automatically! YouTube certainly better than the traditional Haynes car manual.

We travelled from Beccles to Reedham today with the canopy down all the way - had early dinner (16.30) in the Lord Nelson and then headed back 'Beccles bound' in the dark stopping at Somerlyton for the night to get shore power. What a lovey day on the southern rivers !

yes me too. Not tech'y enough to know how to do that !

Great photos Chris

Thanks for the details Griff. Karizma also has 2 tube heaters (not sure what wattage) in the engine bay, on a thermostatically activated 240v socket set at +2c, so thats about the same as yours. Again most of the 15mm pipework is plastic , but my calorifier is right up the front in the bow of the boat, so a little less protected than items in the engine bay. ........ and she's got a 'plastic' hull, so a little less protection than your 'woodie' ! Gives me some things to think about for sure ..... Cheers Steve

Hi Griff, do you drain the water tanks (fresh water / hot water) and pipework as well as switch on the frost heater(s)? How many heaters do you have installed and are they just positioned around the engine? or do they protect other areas of the boat as well? I'm taking Karizma out of the water this winter (for the first time since we bought her two years ago), and i'm starting to put together my 'winterising' to do list !