ExUserGone

Theres me corrected then.

Aluminium anode is no good for anything with outboard or outdrive as the thing you are trying to protect is aluminium so no difference between the metals. OK for stainless shafts and bronze props.

On the waste issue Mick at the new inn at rockland has been having issues with that, they used to use bins on his property for boaters but stopped collecting it when it was deemed trade waste causing him to get rats around so he's had to stop people using it, can't blame him at all as most of the hire boats use the bins but don't use the pub.

SRC = Short Range Course, as opposed to HF & MF that are long range systems.

If grey water storage is required for just one waterway fit a diverter valve so it can go overboard or to blackwater tank, saves pumpouts when on other waterways. My sea toilet is fitted with diverter so works either way, also setup so tank can be pumped back out through seacock when at sea.

If you are changing the engine put something more up to date in, it'll be much easier to get spares at a later date and much smoother/quieter.

Originally atlanta bought out mouldings from Norman and I believe shetland got involved somewhere along the line, shetland produced a 32' that was just a restyled norman 32 at one point.

No header tank if directly cooled, only needed if indirectly cooled via heat exchanger with closed engine system.

I've never worked on a 4107 but I seem to remember being told of an internal oilpipe that corrodes, no doubt I will be corrected on this. If it's gone down the exhaust you would notice an excess of blue smoke behind you and rainbow paterns on the water.

Final outcome, took tachos home to calibrate and dropped one breaking the glass bought a pair of pricol tachs from a guy on ebay selling thorneycroft stuff, modified alternators as didn't have tacho outputs and calibrated to engines as close as poss, then put a jumper across signal wires and run on one engine to match the two gauges together, mostly done outside ferry house at surlingham. Now have two lovely smooth calibrated tachos and engines sound so much closer when revs matched, £100 well spent, me a happy bunny

Note to self... Remember to stick a couple of quid in the next rnli box....

You just can't go collecting cobb nuts and putting them on the bbq, swans all belong to the queen whatever gender!

Kids won't touch conkers, that would require a risk assesment and some imagination.

Any 2 differing metals will have electricity passing between the metals, only millivolts usually but enough to cause galvanic corrosion when an electrolyte is present, brackish water is a great electrolyte, even copper in antifoul will cause problems if it's against an aluminium outboard or outdrive. The level of charge will change with different metals. The wire could be for engine stop switch and maybe ac lighting coils, probably using a standard cable that also caters for electric start engines.

If that round hole at the tip of the anti-cavitation plate is the one in question I'm not convinced it's a gearcase filler screw, should be a drain at the bottom and a level/filler on the side of the leg.(oil is usually better squeezed in from the drain screw till it appears at the level screw). If it needs a plug in and has no thread you will need to get the damaged thread helicoiled to suit the thread of the new plug. Is the motor setup for electric start/stop/choke and does it have any charging capability?

More outboards to look out for...

Just drain it out, squirt some wd40 or duck oil or similar through the gearcase to disperse any water remaining and fill with fresh gear oil, EP90 should do the trick, it'll be fine.

Sounds very familiar...

Took me back to may/june to a trip from kings lynn to yarmouth via wells in a RLM31 bahama.

Annoyingly it doesn't always do it so I'll have to run it for a while to get a definate clue, probably at least as far as a pub...

Not yet but it is on the cards for this weekend to see if it's the pickup or dial.

Have you tried powering the suspect device from a seperate battery to see if the interference is coming through the power cables rather than down the coax?

They all have osmosis, if it's only small blisters it's not worth treating, my rlm is the same hull and has a few blisters but I still trust it to keep me afloat on fairly lumpy sea states. If it's on volvo drives they are stronger than the enfields I have although more expensive for repairs/parts.