Water Pump Replacement- Your Thoughts, Please.

[Regulo]

Hi, all,

I'm about to replace the (ancient) water pump/accumulator set in the boat, it's the original as far as I know. The accumulator tank has failed and the pump itself must be nearing it's end. I'm thinking of a flow-sensed pump that varies speed according to demand, either a Jabsco Vflo or (older type) SensorMax. I've read of the horror stories surrounding these pumps but am still drawn to them. The Vflo has an unadjustable cut off pressure of 50psi which would require a pressure reducing valve to prevent the HW tank pressure relief valve blowing continuously, but the older sensormax will not require that due to a lower cut-off pressure of 25 psi. Any experience or advice?

[petersjoy]

Hi, I've just replaced my ancient (must be as old as the boat (42) stewart turner pump) for a Jabsco par max 2.9.

that runs at 25psi, boy i should have done it years ago, now have a better shower on the boat than i have at home.

Paul.

[MBA Marine]

Jabsco 2.9 is what I fit to most Broads applications, performs well, however if you have a large boat with multiple showers then you might want a larger model to cope with the potential demand increase.

[JawsOrca]

Jabsco 2.9 on ours. Seems to cope well with a shower, taps and washing machine all pretty much at the same time. At £65 when it breaks at least it isn't painful to replace.  

[BroadAmbition]

Our latest f/w pump was sourced from French Marine at Rackheath.  45psi and 15Ltrs per minute, running through a 25Ltr accumulator tank.  Does us great, cracking shower onboard, plenty of even flow through all taps - Recommended

Griff

[ExUserGone]

As long as the rest of the system is up to it it's cheap enough to replace the prv on the calorifier to cope with the extra pressure.

[Vaughan]

The old fashioned brass PRVs are adjustable.

[Regulo]

Thanks for all your replies. Do you experience the pump pressurising to cut-off, then water flow gradually reducing until the pump cuts in again, or do your pumps run continuously, without reaching cut-off pressure? My system at present is AFAIK the original, which had the HW tank fitted with a 18 psi car radiator cap! The pump pressure switch was set at 15 psi cut out, but cut back in when flow at the taps was almost a dribble! You see why I'm ripping it out and upgrading. I have put in a new calorifier tank with a preset 3 bar PRV (42 psi approx), so I can comfortably run a higher pressure pump. Do I go for a variable speed one, or a standard pressure switch one?

[LondonRascal]

On BA the pressure is maintained at the tap be that at the time the water pump cuts in, to when it has just switched off - so there is never any noticeable drop in flow. It will run perhaps for 20 seconds building pressure and then cut off until it is required again, which means you can often get a couple of glasses of water at night with no pump cut in and not disturb anyone which is nice too.

[Oddfellow]

On 01/06/2016 at 10:02 PM, Vaughan said:

The old fashioned brass PRVs are adjustable.

They may have been when new, Vaughan, but many will be seized now. 

The new PRVs aren't a patch, unfortunately. You also need to be mindfull that a 6 bar one with a 5bar pump might actually blow other joints.......