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Push Button Wiring

smitch6
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smitch6

smitch6

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I have a standard lucas ignition on my bmc diesel engine boat.

the ignition is 1 end and the engine is the other.

I am changing the ignition for 2 switches and a push button start as the ignition keeps spinning,

new ignition panel

So it will be 1 switch will ignite the ignition, 1 momentary switch will heat the glow plugs, push button will start the engine.

another option i have is 1 switch will ignite the ignition, i then have a timer & relay to heat the glow plugs on this switch.

timer and this is the relay

The stop isn't on the ignition

How do i wire the switches etc pls?

 

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Vaughan

Vaughan

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Sounds to me as though you are complicating matters for no extra advantage.  You can easily stop the ignition switch from turning by making up a bracket under the dash.  Something similar to the bracket on the gauge in the bottom right of your photo, screwed into the dashboard.  Just make sure it is insulated from the terminals!

The starter solenoid on a BMC is also a relay, so you don't need much current to feed it from the key.  The glow plugs will take about 25amps total, so a relay near the engine will avoid volt drop in the circuit.  You will probably find that the key is fed from the terminal, battery side, of the starter solenoid.  I assume the other large brown wire in your photo goes to a fuse box for other appliances.

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Vaughan

Vaughan

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I have just remembered! The key will have a round black backing plate, which says "off run heat start" and this has a keyway, to stop it turning on the base of the key. So all you have to do is screw the plate onto the dash with two small screws and hey presto! If this plate is missing I imagine you can easily order it as a spare part.

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Oddfellow

Oddfellow

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This does seem like an incredibly complicated solution. Add to that the fact that a BMC 1.5 often requires different levels of preheating (or no preheating if its warm) then the auto-preheat solution is probably not a solution at all and will just introduce unnecessary battery drain on a warm engine and possibly make it impossible to start after a very cold night of having been left for months. There will be a lot of wiring to get this to work and I doubt that it will work as well as fixing the existing problem.

 

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smitch6

smitch6

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4 hours ago, Vaughan said:

I have just remembered! The key will have a round black backing plate, which says "off run heat start" and this has a keyway, to stop it turning on the base of the key. So all you have to do is screw the plate onto the dash with two small screws and hey presto! If this plate is missing I imagine you can easily order it as a spare part.

nope no plate, 

3 hours ago, ZimbiIV said:

Sounds like the thread has gone on the locking ring.

Just change the ignition switch.

Not that expensive and easier that faffing with rewiring.

paul

 

thread hasn't gone, i've got a brand new one also, but as you turn the key to start it just undo's and comes loose no mater how tight you have it.

3 hours ago, Smoggy said:

Those switches are about £16, not worth faffing about.

i have already bought a new one and yes it is worth faffing about.......

2 hours ago, OldBerkshireBoy said:

Not worth faffing about with?  C`mon people please consider that we can do whatever  we want on our own boats within the BSC. 

thankyou for backing me up much appreciated

2 hours ago, FreedomBoatingHols said:

This does seem like an incredibly complicated solution. Add to that the fact that a BMC 1.5 often requires different levels of preheating (or no preheating if its warm) then the auto-preheat solution is probably not a solution at all and will just introduce unnecessary battery drain on a warm engine and possibly make it impossible to start after a very cold night of having been left for months. There will be a lot of wiring to get this to work and I doubt that it will work as well as fixing the existing problem.

 

even a warm engine will benefit from some type of preheat, it stops it smoking for one at start up,

 

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smitch6

smitch6

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i want to change it because i have a round hole instead of the D so no amount of tightening will cure it,

and because of the round hole it can be a pig to start as you have to tighten it time and wiggle the key.

yes i have tried a brand new lock and it still does it.

i would like something simple that i flick a switch and push a button, save messing about with having to fabricate a metal plate with a D in it, which i have tried but it isn't easy to make a D in a stainless steel plate......

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OldBerkshireBoy

OldBerkshireBoy

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If you can`t find the backing plate then can you use a metal pin or use a screw to hold it in place or make up a tab on it`s own to suit and screw it in place? Was going to suggest Locktite Thread Locker but that will only hold the nut on the thread tight so maybe no use in this case.

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Oddfellow

Oddfellow

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1 hour ago, smitch6 said:

 

even a warm engine will benefit from some type of preheat, it stops it smoking for one at start up,

 

If you know better than a boatyard owner who knows these engines inside out and knows the wiring of a Lucas ignition switch without asking on a forum, I'll leave you to it. 

What you are taking about is fixing a round hole so that it has a flat in it to stop the ignition key from turning and you are doing this with some options that you're cobbling together something electrical. 

I would be gobsmacked if Brian Wards don't have a cover plate that you can screw over your round hole and solve the problem for less than a tenner. Even if they have to cut one for you, it will likely be cheaper than the sum of the parts you listed. 

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smitch6

smitch6

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i have been searching and searching for days and days for a little plate and the only thing i can get is a small circular disc which wouldn't work as it's only 40mm so nothing to screw to the dash,

never even thought of Brian Ward, just rung them and they can make me a plate for £30 as the ones they stock are only £3 but are small circular ones and won't work.

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smitch6

smitch6

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right back to the drawing board, i had been thinking i had to use stainless, which as you know is a nightmare to cut a D hole.

so after chatting with Brian wards they said they use acrylic so i have ordered a round disc with the engraving on as they are only £5 posted,

and ordered an A5 3mm sheet of black rigid acrylic off flebay for £3.50 and i'm going to have a god at mounting the disc onto the sheet and cutting a D out so fingers crossed

 

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ZimbiIV

ZimbiIV

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Cut out the largest circle out, then the inner hole into this.

Then cut another largest circle, cut a 'D' out of this place 'D' over above one cut this of the ring glue together the glue this under the dash. Refit ignition job done and no difference from the outside of the dash from before.

Hope this makes sense.

paul

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