grendel

so tonights work was cutting the ral sections to size and fairing them in, some stainless sheet was also bent to form an angle, then trimmed down to size, trimming stainless steel leaves nasty sharp edges, so needless to say, I sliced my finger on it.

the curved piece has now been planed to a taper and cut into 2 pieces ready for offering up to get the cut angles correct.

probably blocked by your company firewall, it is for me as it is streaming media.

my os open data map puts it as you both say, just at the entrance of duck broad, just before you turn the corner into Martham Broad, just as you enter Barton, just before the second entrance to wroxham broad, at the end of the moorings at south walsham broad, at the river end of the dyke at ranworth, all the way into Norwich to the mill on the Yare, up to the road on the chet, up past the locks at geldestone

my old escort used to do that, the plastic insert that screwed in on the gearstick had cracked, so if you changed too hard it came off in your hand, oh the fun we had.

my first car was a VW Variant (estate beetle)in a lovely yellow colour.

I think it sounds better as open mouth, considering its a food and drink festival

we look forward to hearing more about the project and do keep us informed about any projects that need volunteers to assist, I am sure we have many members here that would be happy to help such a project.

the hull shape looked familiar so I too wondered.

I did wonder why I had spent a lot of time this evening approving new members

I believe I was the one that muddled it up in the first instance.

also worth remembering that the toll is based upon boat length and width, so it may increase your toll.

done

yes Griff, thats the plan, I just needed to get the correct curve for the two pieces, one either side, with the teak rail in the middle.

next there is a section of the top rail at the corner of the stern that needs to be made, as this is on a curve it is easily made from laminated strips in a former, glued up, so here is where it goes, and heres the part clamped up in the former. after the glue is dried the taper will be planed in

ah yes I see now, that should be doable, you would just need to obtain the parts, I am sure there are many that could do the work, there are a few boatyards that could achieve this, martham boats has already been suggested, but there are also others, and there are others who might offer assistance here.

any little gaps will be tightened up and disappear when this is glued down.

so after doing the stepped joint, and staining the wood with teak stain, here is the result on side 2

the issue I can see is that to go to a full tabernacle and counterweight system would possibly require a hatch to be cut through the deck, you will excuse me please if I am wrong, but most of my experience is from wooden yachts with timber masts, which do generally require counterweights for the ease of raising/ lowering required for the broads bridges.

Today I was helping out at the elham valley railway museum, doing crafts, so it was pyrography, finishing off the second side of deck planking, awaiting delivery of more 1/32" ply to do the foredeck, I also spent a few hours assisting someone threading up a 4 shaft table loom, as its something I have done before.

a picture would give us an idea of what she currently has and make suggestions easier.

Charlie, its where you use something similar to a soldering iron to draw on wood, effectively burning the surface to imprint a pattern onto the wood. the tricky bit in this instance was using a metal straight edge effectively robbed some heat from the tip. having tried printed paper I wanted to find a way of doing it in timber, I had thought of something similar to marquetry (using wood veneers for the dark lines and cutting my own planks from the teak stock) but this seemed to me that getting the planks thin enough with a good finish might just take a bit of tricky work, that and the black lines would have been so fine they might have been tricky to work.

joining the two deck sections with staggered joints, just fettling the joint

the toe rails will run around outside this decking, plus I have the stainless steel deck fittings to make too. but after thinking how I was going to do this for way too long I have finally bit the bullet and started the decks.

so trimmed to size and with a coat of teak stain and its starting to look good