PaulN

I would suggest repairing it, presumably the boats original designer calculated what type of prop was required. Should be a lot cheaper. This company looks a good bet, not far from the broads and good reviews. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1LENP_enGB567GB567&tbs=lf:1,lf_ui:10&tbm=lcl&q=boat+propeller+repairs&rflfq=1&num=10&ved=2ahUKEwjJ1bGf_pT7AhWTXsAKHa0hDD8QtgN6BAgTEAY#rlfi=hd:;si:14179463103578405771,l,ChZib2F0IHByb3BlbGxlciByZXBhaXJzSIH-ktPlgICACFoiEAAQARACGAEYAiIWYm9hdCBwcm9wZWxsZXIgcmVwYWlyc5IBCGVuZ2luZWVymgEjQ2haRFNVaE5NRzluUzBWSlEwRm5TVU00TTBwaWRHSm5FQUWqAQwQASoIIgRib2F0KAA,y,BayUsBOAHqY;mv:[[53.278309899999996,1.076397],[50.6545565,-4.5800852]]

I also saw this on fb earlier today. Looks fabulous, saw her earlier during construction and hull and decks of boat number 2 is afloat in the marina. We all know Clive follows NBN posts, let's hope he can show us a bit more of his latest fabulous creation without infringing client confidentiality.

Hi Griff We 'winterise' in a similar manner. We have 3 tubular heaters all linked to a thermostat plug that I have switching on if the temperature drops to 3 degrees C. One is by the engine which is amidships, one in the heads and one in the main saloon with seating backrests off, exposing the cold water tank which is under the starboard deck. Water pump is off with taps open and I also open the shower mixer and disconnect the shower head hose so that the mixer valve drains into the shower tray. As you say, cupboards and fridge are left open. We also replace the raw water with antifreeze. Battery charger (intelligent type) is left on with bilge pump set to auto. If the weather looks good in the winter and we fancy a few days cruising, we can recommission in a few minutes and it just costs a few litres of antifreeze when we leave. This of course all depends on the marina shore power not tripping out, therefore I would be very interested to know the details of the equipment you have to notify you on your phone if this happens.

We will soon know, if it all gets painted a bright and gaudy colour!

Thanks for everyone's help on this subject, now for the update: I tried everything, cracking open the flow and return pipes at the calorifier to vent any air locks and the same at the engine, each time with engine running, but still the return at the engine ran cold. I ruled out the thermostat as the engine would overheat if jammed shut. Having just had 10 days on the boat ending yesterday. Halfway through, having both had showers and and washed the breakfast things, there was little hot water left. We cruised from Ranworth to Womack and I noticed that for the first half of the journey the engine temperature was about 5 degrees lower than usual at just over 70 degrees C. When we arrived at Womack the water was piping hot. This has carried on since. Don't really know why this suddenly happened, perhaps using the immersion heater a few days running when plugged into shore power had the reverse effect and heated the glycol/water coil in the tank, expanding it and 'unblocking' any trapped air bubble. Not sure if that could be the case, but it's all stayed working since, so very pleased

I look forward to trying out The White Heron with my wife. If we get a smile and a welcome from the staff, it will be a vast improvement on The Yare.

There is a Hotel/Pub locally to where I live that is cashless. Also Tottenham Hotspur's new stadiums bars are cashless and for those who find debit cards a struggle, their minds will be blown there when their pint is served upside down by being injected through the lid of their plastic 'glass'. I am the opposite, I rarely have any cash on me whatsoever and so mooring at Womack is a problem as they only accept cash.

Hi BN. Very odd, your message starting 'He's Early .....', seems to have come out on my message instead of being separate

Hi Andy. We have only ever done one cruise which was on Sea Princess in 2009 and we still have very fond memories, I'm sure you will have a fabulous time. What surprised us was how many people gorged themselves all day in the buffet, with burgers, iced cream and cakes. If you have all inclusive like we had, I would recommend that you avoid that and save your appartitie for the fabulous restaurant in the evening. I remember our first evening on board when the waitress went to take our order and I said 'It's hard to make my mind up between my two favourites that you have on the menu this evening, Lobster and Beef Wellington'. She said, 'Thats easy, have the lobster as a starter and the beef as a main'. I said 'Can I do that', she said 'Of course, you can have it as many times as you want' We had fabulous meals in the fantastic restaurant every evening. Would love to go on another cruise, but financially now our spare cash goes to keep the Broads Cruiser going, which we love so much. Have a great time!

As we are going back to our boat on Sunday, I thought I would have a look at Wroxham Bridge air draught just now (11:25) on BB's webcam, being about 1½ hours after LW. Looked like about 6'9" on the gauge. Low and behold, what should I see! 'Boys on Tour' on BA, just going under the bridge towards Coltishall. Have a great time guys

We will be around that area at that time. We are going to the boat next Sunday for a couple of weeks, so look forward to seeing the event. I have such fond memories of the 3 Rivers Race in my Fireball, I think it was 1970 or close to that. Such incredible fun, I remember sailing across Hickling Broad on a broad reach with Spinnaker up and crew out on the wire at 2am, aiming towards an orange flashing light on a floating dustbin to deposit our card to prove our arrival there. Happy Daze!

It also drives me mad when I see someone coming in to moor with someone on deck, dying to poke our boat with their boat hook. I bet they would love that if I produced one in Tesco's car park if they drove in to park next to me. I do wish boat yards would do away with them.

Thank's Vaughan. I can get to the top calorifier pipe of the engine coolant circuit, which I tried, but not sure if I had the engine up to temperature, so will give it another go when I go to the boat next weekend. I presume with the pressure cap on?

Thanks Marge & Parge. I will try Vaughan's latest suggestion first as it will save the antifreeze, but if I still can't get it to flow, I will do as you suggest.

Hi John. Yes there is a short length of rubber about 150mm where the pipes join the engine.

Thanks Smoggy, yes, I fully understand the plumbing principles and what the 4 connections are for, though realise this may not have been evident. They are not push fittings but plastic threaded compression fittings and are completely sealed, the coolant level never drops.

Vaughan, thank you again for your input and help. Yes the installation is all very neat, albeit the boat is 14 years old. I understand how all the systems work (or don't as the case maybe), but thank you as I do realise that many people may not. Both hot and cold systems are plumbed in with the same pipework throughout, except for a 2 short lengths of rubber connecting the HW flow and return to the 2 engine spiggiots. (photo from manual attached). The tank is a small (though large for a broads boat) domestic copper water cylinder factory encased with a bonded on polystyrene insulation jacket installed in an airing cupboard, i.e. slatted shelving above. All 4 connections are the same type of pipework going straight on to the cylinder spiggots and there is a pressure release valve. I've tried so many things that it is difficult to remember what order I did them, but what you say seems to make a lot of sense, i.e. with pressure cap on, slacken off the HW return at the engine and then run the engine which must surely purge the system. I'm back at the boat next weekend, so will let you know how I get on.

Thanks Smoggy. I am aware yes. Fairly conversant with engines, having played around with them on my cars back in the early 70's. But a good point and all help is greatly appreciated

John As I said above with photo, the hoses can't be blocked by any form of collapse and disconnecting the pipe at the top of the calorifier circuit only produces a slight trickle of water. Therefore perhaps it is a thermostat problem, albeit the engine gets to 75 deg C in about 10 minutes. Perhaps I should get a new stat and take it with me when I go to the boat in a weeks time. If when I take the stat out with engine cold and find it is closed, then I presume it isn't the problem. Thank you for your help.

Hi Vaughan. As you will see from the earlier photo, I can slacken the joints in the pipework which I have done close to the engine and the top joint and the calorifier. I can take the cap of the filler when the engine is up to temperature and no problem, is that significant to the HW system problem do you think?

Hi Smoggy. I can take the cap off when hot and nothing shoots out

Thanks Griff. With the cap off of the top up reservoir starting from cold and running the engine up to temperature, there is no apparent increase in the level which is about 50mm below the filler cap

Thanks Marge & Parge, but my system is rigid heat resistant plastic, not hoses. Only very short length of hose at engine junctions of about 150mm, which are fine. Attached is a photo of the type of pipework, it shows the cold water system but I'm at home and don't have a photo of the hot water system, but it is the same.

Thanks, but tried that and no joy

Thanks Marge and Parge, I agree but the engine temp is always steady at about 75 deg C so I guess the thermostat is ok