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Dehumidifiers


Simonboatshift

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Ah the window sucky thing.

I never got one for 2 reasons - 1) I have a curved front window which is where I really wanted it for and 2) I could turn it sideways to get it to work, but someone on here mentioned the collection pot leaks if you don't have them upright.

Might still try and borrow one at some point to see if t will help. 

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2 minutes ago, Baitrunner said:

Ah the window sucky thing.

I never got one for 2 reasons - 1) I have a curved front window which is where I really wanted it for and 2) I could turn it sideways to get it to work, but someone on here mentioned the collection pot leaks if you don't have them upright.

Might still try and borrow one at some point to see if t will help. 

Use mine on its side for windscreen no problems, but do tend to do that before cabin windows Mark.

Charlie

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Sold out!!!

Found one for £14 that isn't re-chargeable, but not a problem for the amount I would use it.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cordless-Electric-Window-Vac-Hand-Held-Window-Vacuum-Cleaner-Spray-Bottle-Set/272170036426?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3Db6547be933574dd1bc4965875edb7afb%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D20%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D262336258230

I just remembered point 3 - I need one on a long pole as I cant easily get to the lower part of the front screen!!

I am still tempted though for the upper screen and side windows - for that money it's worth it.

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28 minutes ago, Baitrunner said:

I just remembered point 3 - I need one on a long pole as I cant easily get to the lower part of the front screen!!

I am still tempted though for the upper screen and side windows - for that money it's worth it.

Broom handle and Gaffa tape?

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, had chance to try it this weekernd, saloon cabin windows very steamed up on friday morning, said to my friends - look at this new gadget I have bought, promptly demonstrated it and looked a right idiot.

This gadget certainly sucks the water off the glass, however, it then proceeds to spray every last drop out of the motor vent holes, covering a radius of about 6 feet in the process - including me!  so you can imagine I am stood there water dripping from nose and my friends rolling about the floor laughing rofl. Lesson learned, dont be a cheapskate, have now ordered a karcher one, he stated sheepishly  :-)

trev

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39 minutes ago, tjg1677 said:

OK, had chance to try it this weekernd, saloon cabin windows very steamed up on friday morning, said to my friends - look at this new gadget I have bought, promptly demonstrated it and looked a right idiot.

This gadget certainly sucks the water off the glass, however, it then proceeds to spray every last drop out of the motor vent holes, covering a radius of about 6 feet in the process - including me!  so you can imagine I am stood there water dripping from nose and my friends rolling about the floor laughing rofl. Lesson learned, dont be a cheapskate, have now ordered a karcher one, he stated sheepishly  :-)

trev

Hi Trev,

If you tip the Karcher or do not empty it before it is full, you will get the same effect, they also blow water out. One of the good things with the Karcher you can purchase a much smaller blade.

Regards

Alan

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Sounds like a good job I didn't go for one of the cheaper alternatives then!   

I thought that the steaming up/condensation issue was due to the fact that we normally have 5 of us sleeping all in the cabin and the door shut.  However the other week I popped to the boat, arriving quite late.  Went to bed and in the morning still had the condensation on the inside of the front windows.  Albeit slightly less than usual. Can't be down to ventilation as I had the door and hatch open.  I think that outside screen covers are probably the way forward, so with that in mind I have now bought a larger boat with these fitted.... And an aft cabin so we can spread out a little bit..:party: Probably a bit of an excessive way of getting rid of condensation but well, had to be done! 

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10 hours ago, ranworthbreeze said:

Hi Trev,

If you tip the Karcher or do not empty it before it is full, you will get the same effect, they also blow water out. One of the good things with the Karcher you can purchase a much smaller blade.

Regards

Alan

Thanks alan, will watch out for that but more importantly, try it for first time with nobody looking....lol

 

Trev

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Condensation will happen regardless of how many people are on a boat - it is simply because the interior will always be that little bit warmer than the exterior and the moisture present in the air will then condense on the cooler surfaces - windows and their frames usually.

Warming the air seems a good answer, but warmer air then can carry more water vapour - and cause the process to get even worse as the now warmer, more moisture laden air will condense far more on the cooler surfaces.

Boat window manufactures have gone a long way to preventing this with using special glass or double glazing of the glass insert along with having an internal ‘trim’ to the window frame that is isolated from the actual metal frame.  In so doing no warmth or cold can conduct from the inside or outside of the boat and condensation won’t form since the ‘frame’ you see inside the boat has no connection to the outside cooler temperatures. 

Ventilation is often touted as the best cure for condensation, but the reasoning is simple: You allow more cooler (less moisture rich) air into the boat and also by default would be allowing warmer moisture laden air to leave the boat – but it also cools the majority of the air volume down and by doing so helps reduce is ability to hold moisture so you get less condensation form.  

You can have windows open, even doors - but still have condensation issues because you will likely be wanting to heat the area you are living in and more people in that space, exhaling large amounts of water vapour with each breath, further compounds the situation.

The only sure fire way to tackle the issue is remove the moisture in the air – then you can have both a warmer and comfortable environment and a dryer one too and be it by crystals or electric dehumidifiers that is the only way to easily reduce moisture levels. 

As an aside to moisture, but looking to heating - many boats I have seen don’t have ‘closed circuit warm air heating’ – what this means is air is being drawn from outside the boat (example could be the heater is in the engine compartment which is vented to the outside) this cold external air is heated through the warm air heater, then expelled through the various outlets on board.  This causes a positive air pressure on the boat and the air will then leak out through roof vents, windows and the like.  You also are constantly heating already cold air – so the colder the temperature outside the cooler the air from the heater will be.

If you supply the heater with ambient air at 10 degrees and it will pass at the same speed over the heat exchanger as air being supplied at 3 degrees but the air that went in the heater at 3 degrees won’t come out as hot as the air that went in at 10 degrees. 

A better system is that warm air is drawn from a ‘cold return vent’ inside the boat, this is then sent back through the heater and then expelled through the heaters outlets.  This means a neutral air pressure onboard – or the same as using your cars ‘re-circulate’ system and how ducted air conditioning systems operate in offices/shops etc (though when humidity and air temperature fall to a set level, flaps on the outdoor unit – if installed - can open thus  drawing fresh air in to the building).

Now, before people think that having a closed circuit heating loop might cause issues so far as CO or CO2 building up inside – not a bit of it, because your ventilation spaces are still working as normal, indeed the same as if the heating system was not in operation but you are being more efficient in heating already warmed air, not heating cold air from the outside of the boat and sucking this into the boat which naturally needs to escape. 

It is just a shame that boats happen to be so small to make the fitment of reverse cycle air-conditioning systems that much harder (not to mention costly) for they can cool in the summer, dehumidify and when run in reverse cycle to produce heat – actually output more kilowatts of heat energy than they consume in power. The most efficient being able to produce close on 3Kw of heat for each 1Kw of power making them the most efficient electrically powered heaters. 

 

 

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I agree with Robin's long post above, but in addition ...

On 25/09/2016 at 8:06 PM, Simonboatshift said:

I thought that the steaming up/condensation issue was due to the fact that we normally have 5 of us sleeping all in the cabin and the door shut. 

the air inside of a broads boat is almost always going to be damp and become saturated as the temperature falls overnight because none of them are totally water tight (hence the need for bilge pumps etc.).  Consider what happens if rain gets inside the passenger compartment of a car.  Whilst the carpets are damp you will get condensation on the inside of the windows each morning.  In a boat, that effect is reproduced by a couple of gallons sloshing around under your bedroom floor!

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Having read a lot-of-hot-air on this thread :naughty:..........

This is what I use on ours:-http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-22-litre-peltier-dehumidifier-a59kx 

70w but 0.6amp so not much of a drain on the shore power. I set it with a timer to come on for 90mins in the early morning and again in the evening. I don't use the tank but put the hose straight into the sink so no worries with tank filling and then switching off. I only put it on when we leave the boat during the winter months and not when we are on board. The boat heater has a timer to switch on(like your heating at home) and the temperature can be set too and this dries up any condensation really quickly when on board.

It has worked really well for the past 2 years and I'm very pleased with it. No more blackened curtains or damp bedding etc. £50 well spent.

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