Jocave Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 Plenty of access on the inside, the only things that would need moving are the throttle and steering cables and some wiring from the batteries Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ranworthbreeze Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Hello Jocave, I assume you are talking about cutting the port side because of your moorings, is there anything impeding the starboard side? If I was addressing this issue I think I would have a fabricated plate made in stainless steel to reinforce the cut out section, this would aid the fixings and hinges on the cut out section. Regards Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanetAnne Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 A pair of marine plywood reinforcing panels cut to the profile of the deck and down to the hull below and then laminated into the aperture either side would give you a structure actually stronger than what you have now before cutting. Refinish the bonded in areas each side in gel coat (or sand and paint if the boat is already painted) and you'll have an access point that looks like it grew there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocave Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 2 hours ago, ranworthbreeze said: Hello Jocave, I assume you are talking about cutting the port side because of your moorings, is there anything impeding the starboard side? If I was addressing this issue I think I would have a fabricated plate made in stainless steel to reinforce the cut out section, this would aid the fixings and hinges on the cut out section. Regards Alan No its just because the gas locker and the diesel tank for the eberspacher is on the other side, it would be a far bigger job that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocave Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 48 minutes ago, JanetAnne said: A pair of marine plywood reinforcing panels cut to the profile of the deck and down to the hull below and then laminated into the aperture either side would give you a structure actually stronger than what you have now before cutting. Refinish the bonded in areas each side in gel coat (or sand and paint if the boat is already painted) and you'll have an access point that looks like it grew there. The guy is going to come down and take a look and see what exactly needs doing so will update when I know more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scraggs Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Being a Viking once you get that done will she be able to get into the cabin OK, we had a look at quite a few vikings when we were buying our boat and most had very steep access to the cabin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddfellow Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 A lot of sense being talked here. If you take away the strength of the hull by cutting a oblong hole in it, it have to put that strength back. Do this by creating new material that triangulates the forces at 90 degrees to the cuts and bond it back onto itself, ideally down to the bottom of the hull. The result will be far more rigid than before. Of course, the work will necessitate a rejig of the flooring and so on and, be very careful with the sheerline becoming too low as to present a significant flooding danger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanetAnne Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 32 minutes ago, FreedomBoatingHols said: .... be very careful with the sheerline becoming too low as to present a significant flooding danger. He never said anything about wanting it to float afterwards 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanessan Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 This thread really does show the forum as it’s best. Loads of thoughts and helpful advice. Jocave - I do hope you find a suitable solution to your conundrum, I’m sure there will be many folk interested in what you come up with eventually as mobility problems catch up with most of us in the end!! It would be good to think that Mrs Jocave can carry on boating for a while yet. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JawsOrca Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 6 hours ago, Jocave said: Plenty of access on the inside, the only things that would need moving are the throttle and steering cables and some wiring from the batteries Gulp.. should I say what that flooring needs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JennyMorgan Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 For myself I have created a handrail on my floating jetty and a grab rail on my boat, it gives me both stability and security as I climb aboard. Away from my moorings I rely on a 'granddad' walking stick, the crooked handle being an additional boat hook. I'm damned if I'm going to give in just yet! 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZimbiIV Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Sorry but I cannot see how this idea will work in tidal waters even on the Northern Broads, that's why I suggested a pasarelle. 2 suggestions ( we don't want you both to go ) 1 get in touch with the Nancy Oldfield Trust for advice. 2 consider one of those hoists that lift wheelchairs into the back of cars etc. Another thought make/get made a form of gangplank with hand rails. paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JennyMorgan Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Paul, Jocave has made it quite clear that he and his wife wish to avoid installing a hoist, and I quite understand that. Beyond that provided the drop down section of the hull has a seal then I don't see sinking as being likely. However I do question the loss of rigidity but I bow to the experience and advice of such as Andy on this one. For me I think the judicious placing of grab and hand rails is a route worth exploring. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Mouse Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 On 29/01/2018 at 00:11, Jocave said: I'm pretty sure it will be OK but I will get a second opinion before any cuts are made , I may even end up with the only side entry Viking afloat.. My Viking had the sides cut out at the factory when built. It is only down to the hull mould and then strengthened. It may be worth doing that and then look or a folding wheelchair ramp to go from boat to ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Mouse Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 On 29/01/2018 at 00:11, Jocave said: I'm pretty sure it will be OK but I will get a second opinion before any cuts are made , I may even end up with the only side entry Viking afloat.. My Viking had the sides cut out at the factory when built. It is only down to the hull mould and then strengthened. It may be worth doing that and then look or a folding wheelchair ramp to go from boat to ground. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RumPunch Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 I've just been reading about the proposed work on the YBW forum.... more interesting opinions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hockham Admiral Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 On 29/01/2018 at 20:32, ZimbiIV said: Sorry but I cannot see how this idea will work in tidal waters even on the Northern Broads, that's why I suggested a pasarelle. 2 suggestions ( we don't want you both to go ) 1 get in touch with the Nancy Oldfield Trust for advice. 2 consider one of those hoists that lift wheelchairs into the back of cars etc. Another thought make/get made a form of gangplank with hand rails. paul The Nancy Oldfield Trust is a very good idea, Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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