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Oil Cooler

Starbrite

By Starbrite
in Boats and accessories Wanted

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JanetAnne

JanetAnne

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Depending on the bolt hole you could have it drilled out and sleeved and then braize the sleeve in to stop the crack travelling.

If it's aluminium a similar repair is possible using an aluminium weld instead of braize.

You need a good local engineering company 

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Starbrite

Starbrite

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I can't believe that a system put on boats in the eighties has disappeared from history this system must have been put on a lot of connoisseur s as I've got no. 109 I wonder if anyone else has the same fitting IMG_20190822_133346.jpeg

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dnks34

dnks34

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If you go down the repair route get a firm price from the engineering firm beforehand.  I was totally taken advantage of by a firm in Lowestoft a few years back who agreed to repair a cracked heat exchanger for me, they told me it wouldn't be “much” then kept it 3 weeks and charged me a lot more than I was expecting.   

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Starbrite

Starbrite

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If you go down the repair route get a firm price from the engineering firm beforehand.  I was totally taken advantage of by a firm in Lowestoft a few years back who agreed to repair a cracked heat exchanger for me, they told me it wouldn't be “much” then kept it 3 weeks and charged me a lot more than I was expecting.   
I'm in Yorkshire and belong to a club we have brazing tackle so we will have to repair it or try to upgrade it but to take it apart it'll drop a gallon of hydraulic oil

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grendel

grendel

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well I guess you would have dropped that same gallon fitting any replacement you might have found, my best advice is get some oil spill kits (the absorbant stuff) and get them down in the area around the cooler, then disconnect with a container handy (in case you can catch some of the spill), also if you can / have a pump, drain the cooler off after disconnectingt he top hose, and then rely on the spill kits to catch the rest (if you get any in the bilges cat litter is good at absorbing oil too). you will probably want to flush through and fill with fresh hydraulic fluid anyway.

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Starbrite

Starbrite

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well I guess you would have dropped that same gallon fitting any replacement you might have found, my best advice is get some oil spill kits (the absorbant stuff) and get them down in the area around the cooler, then disconnect with a container handy (in case you can catch some of the spill), also if you can / have a pump, drain the cooler off after disconnectingt he top hose, and then rely on the spill kits to catch the rest (if you get any in the bilges cat litter is good at absorbing oil too). you will probably want to flush through and fill with fresh hydraulic fluid anyway.
Hi have you any details of how much oil that should be in the tank as the sight glass is a temperature gauge IMG_20190826_090607.jpeg

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Vaughan

Vaughan

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The sight glass does both jobs. It shows oil level (which is low) and oil temperature - which is critical.

You cannot run a hydraulic drive without an oil cooler.

The colour in your photo tells me that someone has mixed clear agricultural hydraulic oil with ATF, which is what you put in Hurth gearboxes but not hydraulic drives. You cannot mix the two or they will eat the rubber oil seals, so it must be drained.

 The correct oil is Total Equivis, which is what they use in combine harvesters.

Let's not beat about the bush here. You cannot do DIY jobs with hydraulic drives. You need experts and the best ones are Peachments in Brundall. They did not make this particular drive but they will certainly be able to advise you and supply a part which will work.

Hydraulic drive is excellent and is almost maintenance free, but you cannot mess about with it. Get it looked at by professionals, and Peachments know more about it than anyone else on the Broads.

In my opinion of course. . . . .:default_coat:

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Starbrite

Starbrite

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The sight glass does both jobs. It shows oil level (which is low) and oil temperature - which is critical.
You cannot run a hydraulic drive without an oil cooler.
The colour in your photo tells me that someone has mixed clear agricultural hydraulic oil with ATF, which is what you put in Hurth gearboxes but not hydraulic drives. You cannot mix the two or they will eat the rubber oil seals, so it must be drained.
 The correct oil is Total Equivis, which is what they use in combine harvesters.
Let's not beat about the bush here. You cannot do DIY jobs with hydraulic drives. You need experts and the best ones are Peachments in Brundall. They did not make this particular drive but they will certainly be able to advise you and supply a part which will work.
Hydraulic drive is excellent and is almost maintenance free, but you cannot mess about with it. Get it looked at by professionals, and Peachments know more about it than anyone else on the Broads.
In my opinion of course. . . . .:default_coat:
Thanks for your advice the oil was in it when we bought it 2 years ago as in the picture the boat was in France and bought it from Norfolk boat sales I know nothing about hydraulic drives that's why I'm asking I've not had any trouble with the boat until it started running hot last week someone on here told me to look at the oil cooler and they right I cleaned it out but the top cracked round the bolt hole I did a repair and the temperature dropped 10 degrees so thanks for the very good advice which I will be following

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annv

annv

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Hi if not near Peachments I get mine from a agricultural merchant its  ISO 42 centra stroke oil , is best for this country BUT i have a Parker F12/80 pump which may be different oil to yours check with peachment or dealer for equivalent to the EQUIVAS that Vaughan said it should have. ATF is a automatic gearbox oil and is a red colour hydraulic oil is usually clear colour, and as with most their is a cheap type and a premium one best is best. John

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