Lastdraft Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 I have a wooden rubbing strake which I sanded down and coated with Linseed oil. Can this now be varnished, will the oil have dried sufficiently to take varnish ? or is it either oil or varnish ? I would prefer more of a gloss/sheen than the oil gives it. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoggy Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 Deks olje do a gloss finish oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lastdraft Posted May 10, 2020 Author Share Posted May 10, 2020 37 minutes ago, Smoggy said: Deks olje do a gloss finish oil. Thank you Just googled this, it is a two step process, D1 being the oil & D2 is the gloss varnish. As the wood is already well oiled, I am assuming I could just use the D2 varnish ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vaughan Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 "Back in the day", we always put a coat of linseed oil on with a rag, to let it soak into the bare wood. Follow this with a coat of half-and-half turps (or white spirit) and varnish. Next day, oh dear! It hasn't dried and it is still tacky! But no problem - the second coat of slightly thinned varnish will dry out the first one. This was done with natural varnish, such as International Blue Peter. To try this with a 2 pack polyurethane varnish may not be such a good idea! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshman Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 If you know anyone who has some D1, I would just see what would happen if you tried to put D1 over what you have - it is very very thin and I would be quite surprised if you could not get more to soak in. The real issue is that D1 is messy to apply in situe and a rubbing strake is relatively small to put it on - it has to be applied wet on wet and unless you are very careful, it will make a mess and probably more than that of your topsides. Worth a go though, its good stuff although after a period of time D2 starts to peel a bit like varnish - I would try D1 and leave it matt as next season it will just require a light rub and another coat and it will be fine! Why have a shiny surface on a rubbing strake which will require constant renewal year on year!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpy Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 I've had good results with Danish Oil - multiple coats, applied with bits of old T shirt, flatted between with 0000 wire wool. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lastdraft Posted May 11, 2020 Author Share Posted May 11, 2020 13 hours ago, marshman said: If you know anyone who has some D1, I would just see what would happen if you tried to put D1 over what you have - it is very very thin and I would be quite surprised if you could not get more to soak in. The real issue is that D1 is messy to apply in situe and a rubbing strake is relatively small to put it on - it has to be applied wet on wet and unless you are very careful, it will make a mess and probably more than that of your topsides. Worth a go though, its good stuff although after a period of time D2 starts to peel a bit like varnish - I would try D1 and leave it matt as next season it will just require a light rub and another coat and it will be fine! Why have a shiny surface on a rubbing strake which will require constant renewal year on year!! I wasn't going to re oil with D1, I thought I could apply D2 over the already oiled wood ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshman Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 I suspect if you asked Deks Olje themselves they would say it would not, but its worth a try! Personally I would not bother about a gloss finish as whatever product you use, it will build up in time and ultimately start to crack off and peel requiring more attention. I personally don't like Danish oil but as you see others swear by it - its all a matter of opinion! The best thing about D O is that you apply it wet on wet - leaving it to dry between coats defeats the object. On a brand new mast, I managed in one day to put on around 25 coats before it started to literally run off - it still looks good today and can easily be touched up annually with a VERY light rub down and reapplying one or two coats. Adding a shiny coat IMHO adds to the complications - it may look nice in the eyes of some but getting used to a matt but highly durable finish requiring little work is far better for the amount of time spent on annual maintenance!!!! Use your boat - not work on it !!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
annv Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 I have had good results from Sadlin's not as shiny as varnish but stays on without cracking/flaking and easy to touch up and last's for years. John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Beard Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 I have used this Varnish Le Tonkinois and it does what it says on the tin, it has a lovely shiny gloss finish, just use wire wool to flatten in between coats. http://letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/ordering2.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cockatoo Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 9 hours ago, Dave Beard said: I have used this Varnish Le Tonkinois and it does what it says on the tin, it has a lovely shiny gloss finish, just use wire wool to flatten in between coats. http://letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/ordering2.html I've just had some Le Tonkinois delivered and in the info sheet it says Oily woods like Teak, Iroko, Pitch Pine or any surface previously treated with Linseed or Danish oil can be varnished if they are first 'degreased' by thoroughly rubbing with a cloth soaked in white spirit. HTH Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springsong Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 In my dubious experience if you read most varnishes claim to have this or that oil in their makeup. The crucial point is the preparation of the wood. So I can see no problem in putting varnish on oil but not oil on varnish. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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