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Jetwashing ???


Seriously

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I know its early, but keeps me mind off the long wait ,until Easter.

I`ve been moping the decks over the winter months just to keep on top  of the dirt  , Mostly getting rid of  the duck poo :shocked The  weekend before Easter I would like to give her a good clean on the outside and was thinking a good jet wash and then a clean ?  maybe  Polish ? or ??? on the GRP . What does everybody else do or recommend ?

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I used star brite deck cleaner last year on all the walkways. Doesn't leave them slippery. 

Lifts the grim off really well with no need to jetwash. Just leave it for a minute or two, and use a brush to agitate then hose off. 

If you have any teak decking don't jet wash it. And just be careful if you have any painted surfaces or a super powerful jetwash!

have fun. 

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If you have a canopy I used some cleaner I got from the boat show last year (cant remember the make though). It did a good job, but was hard work and the edges needed a good scrub. I then re-proofed it with a product from the same firm, but I think Fabsil probably works as well and is cheaper. There are probably other canopy cleaning products that work as well too.

I was given another tip, if you have any mold on the inside of your canopy use a weak solution of tee tree oil (not neat). cleans it and stops it coming back apparently (and smells nice too).

Due to a near divorce doing the cleaning as a "team" (very loose use of the word team) last year and work commitments this year I am having it all done professionally this year. Another year of marriage and dwindling bank balances, but the boat should be sparkly:bow 

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I use a jet wash twice a year (not on the canopy).  It does find the leaks other washes fail to find, but worthwhile giving a deep clean.  Other than that, just a brush and hose-down afterwards as needed and an oxalic wash once a year.  

Cutting paste, polish and wax every two years as I hate doing it and am too mean to pay anyone else to do it... :)

 

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+1 for the jetwash (for unpainted grp boats only though).

The greatest cleaning invention made for busy (or lazy) people. :rolleyes:

An hour of waving the wand around (no elbow grease required), and all the cr*p is off, even in the fine edges and detail work round the fender eyes etc, and zero pollution of the environment.

Most of them don't even need a mains tap, because they can draw up river water, (via a filter). I even had a cheap little 4 stroke petrol one before my marina put in the hook ups.

Be very wary of one pack painted surface though, it can blow pieces off very easily if it's lifting anywhere.

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Seriously - that was how my divorce nearly started - decided it was best to enjoy the boat and marriage rather than spend weekends cleaning.:bow

Liberty is probably talking compound polishing. Normally done using an electric buffer to get the oxidisation off and then give it a damn good polish. The man will be doing that for me as wellcheers

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Hi Mark,

You must have deep pockets. We are having it done again hull & superstructure as part of the winter service, far to many arms and legs, but at least 20 people are paying for it.

Peter from P & J cleaning services also does this at Brundall but he needs a couple of fine days to do it.

Regards

Alan

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No Alan, just long arms!!! And ears that dont like the moaning they would get if I wanted to do it myself (or had the time). Hopefully it will be easier to DIY when retirement kicks in (if the body can handle it then).

I have to save up to get the cockpit seats re-upholstered and I suspect a new canopy next year. It's all part of the joys of boating!!

I know Peter and have used him a few times - good guy.

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Just be aware that jet washes find every hole and if you have a sliding canopy, be extra very careful!!

Fortunately live close by but it does take time. i try and keep on top of it by using a wax shampoo and a large soft headed brush - or consider one of those soft brushes you can attach to a hose.

Once a year then use a very fine cutting compound like Farecla G3 or even finer as this ensures you do not polish over existing muck and then polish with the most expensive polish you can afford.

Recently used the expensive Starbrite Teflon polish - excellent. goes on very easily but more important , it comes off a treat too. And then finally 2 applications of Autoglym!!! 

Looks a bit nice then but it does all take time and very tired arms - no divorce though as long passed that difficulty!!!

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2 hours ago, Seriously said:

Liberty

Not sure what you mean by cutting paste ?

cheers

Bit like T-Cut for cars.  It is a liquid/paste which when rubbed onto gelcoat will gently scour the surface.  It does remove a very small amount of gelcoat which you then polish then wax.

Bloody hard work and everything aches for days afterwards, but it does look nice when done.

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2 hours ago, Baitrunner said:

Liberty is probably talking compound polishing. Normally done using an electric buffer to get the oxidisation off and then give it a damn good polish.

That's the one.

"The man will be doing that for me as well" - he SO won't..!!!

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Hi

Sorry for the daft question only ever washed and polished my car once  :shocked

Stage 1 Jet wash

Stage 2 Wash Fenwicks Caravan cleaner

Stage 3  Cutting paste  G3 Farecla

Stage 4 Rubbing compound polish G10

Stage 5  Autoglym express wax

Have I missed anything ?

Ps will not do this every time but would like to this first time . A good foundation me thinks

Regards

 

 

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Not sure you need the Autoglym Express Wax after - If it was myself doing this I'd certainly invest in some nice pads and a a variable speed  polisher such as this, which need not be expensive: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002QS1LZ2

Below is a video of what G10 polish can do on a car.

Oh and be careful with any cutting compound or abrasive polish on painted surfaces as this by its very nature will take a small layer away.

 

 

 

 

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Using G3 works very well and it is by no means too abrasive. The drill London Rascal mentions is ideal but it is plenty heavy enough!!

Two tips with the G3 - use the foam pads , apply small dabs of paste to the GRP and use a domestic kitchen sprayer, i.e. one that held cleaner etc to spray plenty of water onto the surface. Works a treat but washing off can be  difficult as the paste goes quite a long way but spreads everywhere and even flicks off the sponge head if too wet!!

And also tape up the antifouling - touch that with the drill and paste and it takes delight in grinding antifouling into your gelcoat making it harder to get off.

BUT it does do a good job and when  cleaned off leaves the surface fit just to  take the polish - but use a good polish as it pays dividends in the end.

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