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Everything posted by grendel
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I find the low temperature melting point of the solder in those as my main issue with them, a bad joint will get warm, and would melt that solder right out of there, making that bad joint worse, this is generally why solder joints are avoided in high current applications, however in this instance we are talking instrument wiring, so my choice would still be normal solder and seperate heat shrink.
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we even use giant heat shrink tubing to seal main supply cables.
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put the heat shrink on one wire, a larger piece on the bundle of wires well back from the heat of the join, solder the individual wires and heat shrink each one, then bring the larger size heat shrink along the wire and place that over the individual heat shrinks, you may want to space out the cuts on the individual wires over several inches so the joints are staggered., but seal the whole with a bigger heat shrink tube to replace the outer sheath of the camera wires.
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solder and heat shrink tubing
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I had a similar email a few years back using that one Tim, when I looked into it it seems facebook was hacked about 8 years back and they got the emails and passwords, the password given was long out of date by the time they tried to scam me, so I just ignored it.
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i have always thought that the best way to farm passwords would be to set up a password security checking website, or one that randomly generated passwords for you to use.
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Heres another good one i have just been sent, an invoice from currys pc world, about an amount, thanking me for my order with a button to cancel the payment at the bottom, unfortunately I didnt think that pc world ran a restaurant in newcastle for table 94
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still it is said that a wet day on the boat is still better than a good day in the office.
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its being bored artistically
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is that bored, or being languid though.
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The signs are the easy bit, 7mm x 5mm labels with 1mm printing, i will redo them in card before i stick them on, just like the real traffolyte labels.
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thats not the model, those are the pictures i took while aboard BA so that i could position the deck fittings. I will post some as installed on the model pics later.
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I wouldnt want to go hard a port using that set up
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perhaps the 20k is to provide facilities for the training to take place, with the costs of the training borne by the hire yards, i can envisage a training cabin with blackboards and seating, plus a practical session around low tide to assist boats mooring, how to set the springs etc, small groups of up to 6 set on non changeover days. maybe 1 course a week through the season would accommodate most of the yards
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well my first experience of a trial run was more of a this is where yhis is, this is where that is, the boat steers from the back, a quick trip up the river then back down, the trainer then stepped off and said off you go. the second (from a different yard, was - have you been before - answer yes, right here ais where everything it, this is how you turn this on / off, loosen the ropes, a quick push out and off you go. subsequent ones were even briefer limited to showing what did what on the boat, and off you go, when i took a boat out for a second time, it was well you know where everything is, see you next week. personally this hasnt given me any problems, but I still mess up occasionally. but I can understand the issues people could have, by the time i get going I have usually read the manual from cover to cover.. So not every yard gives a hirer a decent handover, my first crossing of Breydon was on my first hire, but I had been on the forum and asked questions, and I had read the guidance in the handbook, so nothing untoward happened. Nowadays I have a decent manual lifejacket, and use that where necessary, do I use it every time I am mooring up - no, but I evaluate the risks first and if they warrent it, I wear it, its always readily available to grab.
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I had considered threading the part and making working deck fittings, but i really think that might have been a step too far (not to mention difficult)
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well i tried fitting one in the hole in the scrap piece of aluminium to polish it on my polishing wheel, ping, it was gone into the nether regions of the workshop, so i made another 4 for model #1 and then polished them using my dremel type drill, a lot gentler.
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Griff, you sure got the one with personality there, i can see you will have your hands full, but i am willing to bet she will train up a treat.
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I just need to drill a 6mm hole 2mm deep into the deck to accept these fittings and then glue them in flush to the deck.
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So what do you do on a rainy day, obviously you make deck fittings, no way would i be able to do them in stainless steel, but i have some nice aluminium i could use, first it needed to be turned down to size from around 14mm to 10mm then mounted in a collet chuck so the other end could be brought down to size then a very slight taper was put onto the end after that it was shouldered down to 6mm and then parted off 4 are needed for the model, so I made 5, Then it was a case of over to the milling machine to put the slots in the top Then a 6mm hole in a piece of scrap aluminium, so that i could hold them to file off the short piece of waste left from parting off in the lathe the finished articles ready for the model after that it was a case of positioning them on the model ready for installation, Fortunately while on board on lads week i had taken note of where these deck fittings were situated.
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solid state drives are like the memory card you put in your phone except they can replace the hard disc drive, but are a lot quicker.