Smoggy

There's a similar sign in the butchers arms in beccles.

An emergency holding tank maybe?

Mounting rubbers arrived, £23 industrial price not honda's idea of £135 I must add. A quick fettle this evening and it lives only tried briefly as the rubber grease around the impellor will only go so far and it's raining and geting dark so I'm not getting a water tub sorted tonight, the main bit is it runs and oil pressure light does as it should, had to re-check the book as a lit oil light says problems to me but on the honda it has to be lit to be ok. If the weather plays fair at the weekend I may wrestle my rib and trailer out of the garden for a test run on the local river, or I may just have a hangover..... I am a happy bunny!

Happy's right that outdrive will put a lot of folk off but in all fairness it's an enfield 130 and they're not that maintenance intensive as they're pretty basic and will last forever on a 1.5bmc, every 2-3 years change the gaiter and 8 1/2 pints of ep90 and they're happy, it's not a massive job but does need to be out of water, the gaiters will probably do 5+ years with no problem whatsoever but the change is recommended more often (I'd go for the 5 year option). I've rebuilt a couple myself and they are very simple, a bit of sneaky roping and they lift straight up and allow the boat to take the ground quite safely, and they steer is reverse, props are >£200 so that is a bonus and the setup allows the engine to be right at the back so frees up space in the hull. Bob knowles plant had all the rights to the castings and was getting them made (not had one for a few years now so old info) so everything was available, it wouldn't put me off but makes stern on harder, a bathing platform sorts that. Nice little boat for the money.

If you just use the model in crap weather you'll never have to fold the canopy, a Yorke should be used to crap weather.

Yes it is, different posts from the standard ba posts. At least in kwh you can work out what you need, we've done it at beccles wanting to zap a chinky the next evening so turned off the immersion heater so we could run the microwave for 10 minutes, the chinky was lovely by the way, left overs from the pearl garden in loddon a couple of days earlier.

Ferryhouse posts read Kwh not £ so that would explain it, I seem to recall when first installed your £3 got 23.08 Kwh which is plenty for a full weekend.(for me anyway)

Getting closer, just got to wait for the new mounting rubbers to arrive now, impellor checked and all good, gear oil full and clean, prop dressed.

One of the units just up the road from where I work has a macmillan charity morning on the go today so I've been up there and done my bit, I think the bacon butties may have helped.....

Have a scout around on the link below and you'll likely find the info on how to get error codes on that controller. https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/eberspacher_intro_1.html Looks like if the timer has a white logo it doesn't have diagnostics but if it has a blue eber logo it does.

Air getting into the fuel supply needing re-priming or the fuel pump at the wrong angle (they are quite picky), mine once had a issue cutting out and it was the air return ducting restricted so it was cutting out due to overtemp error, what control do you have as some give error codes with the right button presses.

No, that's a propane fitting, the bottle Griff has looks like it's the same fitting as mine, a butane 20mm clip-on but not the same as the more up to date versions, most now use 21mm clip-on fitting for anything other than the 4.5kg bottles.

What fitting is it? Butane I assume, I have a half full 13 bottle of similar age but can't find a fitting for it as it's 20mm not the usual 21mm and I think the depth is different from any 20mm fittings around. If I could find the right fitting I could decant the gas into 4.5kg bottles.

If you have festoon fittings sheridan marine do what they call a butterfly bulb, loads of light but a much nicer yellowed light and very little power, I changed all my saloon lights to them but had to solder/glue them into my old fluorescent fittings.

I can believe it...

Will you shut up just for once! It's terrible down south, the crossing is lethal, the pubs are awful, and the beer/wine is six times the price! Don't do it it's just not worth the risk, once past yarmouth all the rivers are uphill in both directions so it costs twice as much in diesel, there's even vampire wombles roaming. It gets worse, people like me are there....(enjoying the peace and available moorings, alledgedly)

Have you tried using bait?

The internals looked like new when I stripped it, no signs of wear anywhere just the corrosion issue, the thermostat was caked in crud but a quick blast with ground walnut shells bought it up like new and after a soak in duck oil and a few heat cycles in the oven it appeared to work fine so got away with that, £98 for the gaskets and £25 for new mounting rubbers (industrial price not honda price) and £5 for the welders breakfast and job a guddun! A 6/8hp honda for >£220.

It's getting there! Should shove my little rib along nicely when I get it back together.

I can't believe those evil paddleboarder types are so attracted to the sounds of a screaming child, is there no satisfying their twisted fetishism? Good job no one fell in near wroxham Bridge as that could resulted in certain doom! Top marks to the paddleboarders that stepped in when needed, most would be there if aware of the issue but if you don't know you can't help.

Walton is about 3 hours after gy HW and it's about 60NM so I'd leave gy at 1/2 flood so you can get under haven( I think your airdraft is about the same as mine and I work on it not lifting) and get the best of the tide down and arrive at stone point around 2 hours before hw with plenty of depth and if you get it wrong it's still rising, follow the buoys and you'll be fine. At half tide you'll be flying past Aldeburgh ridge, there's less pot markers if you go outside whiting bank and watch for the 5 litre oil can markers around pye end and medusa channel near the Walton entrance as they're barely visible. Disclaimer: this is from memory and after 3 newcastle browns so do your own passage plan... And I've not been in to Titchmarsh for a few years.

On the rivers and in cars the chances are you won't have issues, cars have small tanks and fair quick turnover and river boats can have a big bug issue that never reaches the pickup, give the boat a proper shake up and it's a different matter, the average trip across breydon isn't a proper shake up, that said I've never worried about fame fuel but dose it well.

When I changed my tanks I cut the bottoms out of the old ones to have a look, I recon the caked sludge was 1/2" thick and would only move when properly shaken about, unless good access to inside tanks for a scrape polishing only goes so far, but it certainly helps. I spent a day with big filters and pumps sucking from tank drain and returning via tank vents while battering across breydon on and off throttles which took a fair bit out but never fully got rid of the crud, in the end it was a weeping seam that clinched the deal to replace them (I think the sludge was keeping the fuel in) which involved lifting both engines out to get access, since then I've been overdosing with marine 16 at every opportunity. Hope we're not scaring you off your trip coolcat. On my previous boat I'd had the tanks out to weld new top plates in and fit sumps and had hoovered the insides before fitting the new tops, topped up in ely and on the return trip had a blockage caused by a lump of crud stuck up the pickup, I had to sort it while swmbo took the helm on one engine in horrible sea conditions just out of wells, not fun and I was probably a hideous shade of green with my head down the engine bay sloping diesel everywhere.

Get that fuel treatment in well before heading off to give it time to work and carry plenty of spare filters, practice changing them and bleeding the system as it's no fun at sea. Check east coast pilot website for most recent chartlet of stone Point, once into the twizzle you'll be fine but Titchmarsh has a cill so look out for the depth gauge board.

I can do that at work myself but gonna coat the inside as protection anyway so not going to worry about it, it's not as if the cooling system runs under any real pressure on a small outboard.