Trixie (Rascal's Fleet)

[LondonRascal]

44 minutes ago, Ricardo said:

the highest setting on a sterling charger had you had gell battery's it could have been though , might be a fault don't the charger but they normally turn off to prevent overcharging of a fault develops

The thing is when we were running the engine the most (indicated on helm volt meter) was just shy of 14v. On the charger it was 14.8v but on the helm voltmeter over 15v. This leads me to beleive the helm mounted meter under reads a tad, but is none the less working well. If the Alternator was putting out too much it would show (I would presume) as a high voltage reading on the helm voltmeter.

Meanwhile, inside the boat on the DC Distribution Panel it will read about 10v at idle, 12v when engine run and about 12.5v with charger running. Max output seen on charger has been 12.5Amps (it will run at up to 20Amps) and the cooling fan does not even need to run. So..We may all be barking up the wrong tree and simply replacing the batteries has solved the problem - in the alternative there may be an issue which I am confident Ludham Bridge Boatyard will find and solve.

It is only a guess, but I reckon the boat was not used too often and mainly spent time on home berth plugged in to the charger. Then taken out for a day etc which would not have showed up right away the issue with the batteries, and if no shower was had the issue with the shower pump and if no night navigation was undertaken the issue with the spot light and anchor light. I got the horn sort of working, mind you, it sounds like a horn inside a box so that will need replacement - but am not going silly just a like for like car type and anything bigger and louder would not suit the boat.

[Bound2Please]

Robin have you had a load test on the batteries? sounds like buckled plate in the one or more of the batteries to me.

[LondonRascal]

8 minutes ago, Bound2Please said:

Robin have you had a load test on the batteries? sounds like buckled plate in the one or more of the batteries to me.

There are only three batteries and had two replaced (domestics) at Boulters. While there, I got them to drop test the starter battery - which proved to be fine. The starter battery is a lot newer than the old domestic batteries along with being a larger size and CCA rating.

[Bound2Please]

26 minutes ago, LondonRascal said:

There are only three batteries and had two replaced (domestics) at Boulters

Is it still the same with the new batteries ?

[LondonRascal]

9 minutes ago, Bound2Please said:

Is it still the same with the new batteries ?

I have no idea personally, but several people have kindly giving me some hints and tips to try. Without any means to test electrics as my test gear is on Independence I have done all I could over the weekend which has been to have the domestic batteries changed.  I worried that when the boat is not being run we are low on domestic voltage but this is going on a very old volt meter on the DC Distribution Panel which itself has a number of breakers which are stuck on or off unless you give them a jolly good press and wriggle to free them up. This tells me that they have had very little use and the previous owners left all on and just used the main DC isolator switch to cut power to everything when they left the boat and has resulted in the push button breakers getting stiff out of lack of use over time.

Instead of trying to guess and figure things out over time, I have just emailed George at Ludham Bridge Boatyard and updated him with an added list of items to look into and fix if needed. If there is going to be an issue I doubt it is going to now be with the batteries, it may be poor connections, corroded terminals/wires etc or a faulty Alternator or Regulator.

To be honest I am putting a lot of more time into this boat than I perhaps should, but that is because this is not what is pressing right now to my Mum and Stepdad who are currently taking a lot of time and money having nearly half an acre of garden sorted out and new boundary fencing going up and they don't need boating issues added on, so I am taking care (through LBBY) of things so they can get a very sound and reliable boat that is turn key ready whenever they want to use it.

[Guest]

7 minutes ago, LondonRascal said:

I have no idea personally, but several people have kindly giving me some hints and tips to try. Without any means to test electrics as my test gear is on Independence I have done all I could over the weekend which has been to have the domestic batteries changed.  I worried that when the boat is not being run we are low on domestic voltage but this is going on a very old volt meter on the DC Distribution Panel which itself has a number of breakers which are stuck on or off unless you give them a jolly good press and wriggle to free them up. This tells me that they have had very little use and the previous owners left all on and just used the main DC isolator switch to cut power to everything when they left the boat and has resulted in the push button breakers getting stiff out of lack of use over time.

Instead of trying to guess and figure things out over time, I have just emailed George at Ludham Bridge Boatyard and updated him with an added list of items to look into and fix if needed. If there is going to be an issue I doubt it is going to now be with the batteries, it may be poor connections, corroded terminals/wires etc or a faulty Alternator or Regulator.

To be honest I am putting a lot of more time into this boat than I perhaps should, but that is because this is not what is pressing right now to my Mum and Stepdad who are currently taking a lot of time and money having nearly half an acre of garden sorted out and new boundary fencing going up and they don't need boating issues added on, so I am taking care (through LBBY) of things so they can get a very sound and reliable boat that is turn key ready whenever they want to use it.

Robin push button breakers are not a switch they are purely a resettable fuse , however stuck ones are a potential danger as they may not trip when required .

On less yiu have a major charging problem new battery's should have sorted the problem and you should see health volts even turn off as long as you have no big loads on , 10 v is a problem , over 14 running an 13 engine off is correct and take what the dash volt gauge says with a pinch of salt they are never accurate , could be that yiu need to replace the entire distribution panel but I'll be highly surprised if its not got a Brian ward's logo on it so easy fix through costly .

[Bexs]

Having done my RYA powerboat level 2, twice!   I would highly recommend.  

[LondonRascal]

17 minutes ago, Ricardo said:

could be that yiu need to replace the entire distribution panel but I'll be highly surprised if its not got a Brian ward's logo on it so easy fix through costly .

It is the original 1992 with George Smith logo on. It may well have been produced locally mind.

It is ok, but I would like a new once with better switch gear and be handy to have a digital (LED) voltage output than an analogue gauge with tiny (1mm) increments for the voltages so you really have to look closely to read what the voltage reading is. Just been on ASAP looking at some of their pre-wired panels, but it would be nice to have a Brian Wards one as they can design and etch the names without using stickers.

[Vaughan]

Try Peachments in Brundall. They almost certainly supplied the panel to George Smiths.

[BuffaloBill]

Robin. Having just sold our Sheerline and it being our second one at that, I can tell you that those pushbutton 'switches' are both breakers and switches combined. If a circuit overloads, they just pop out and you just need to push them back in to reset. I have yet to come across a better system for ease of use. I believe that yours has small LED's to show that each circuit is live? If you wish to turn any particular circuit off, just push it in again and it will pop out and the light will go out to confirm. The panel also had a vertical 'traffic light' panel to show the condition of the battery charge with the voltage written beside each light.

[LondonRascal]

2 minutes ago, BuffaloBill said:

Robin. Having just sold our Sheerline and it being our second one at that, I can tell you that those pushbutton 'switches' are both breakers and switches combined.

Indeed they are, issue is if the buttons are stuck in the in (or on) position and will not release, or will not stay engaged in the in (or on) position when pressed. I reckon some contact cleaner and lube like Servisol Super 10 will help along with working them all a few times over to 'loosen them' up some.

 

[Islander]

Hi Robin, be sparing with servisol. It is known to degrade some plastics at an alarming rate. I have used it for many years in both the TVs trade and music world. We use to use it on channel change switch banks, some would respond well and then all fall to bits in a few weeks.

Try operating them while holding a vacuum nozzle close by also brushing with a clean (new) toothbrush. This hopefully will remove the tiny bits of debris causing them to stick. Should you feel it necessary to try a lubricant you could try ptfe or silicone but please don't try WD40.

If all else fails there is Brian Wards 

Colin 

[JohnK]

but please don't try WD40.

What’s the problem with WD? It’s my default for everything that doesn’t move
Are you saying it’s bad for electrics or more than that?

[Guest]

6 minutes ago, JohnK said:

 

What’s the problem with WD? It’s my default for everything that doesn’t move
Are you saying it’s bad for electrics or more than that?

 

Nope its bad on plastics especially nylon silicon spray / ptfe is much better . wd40 can make the situation worse .

[NeilB]

WD40 attracts dust and dirt, it can also cause some plastics and rubbers to swell or become brittle with prolonged use.  

[LondonRascal]

So, by the sound of it then I should just use Mr Sheen lol

[Guest]

14 minutes ago, Ricardo said:

Nope its bad on plastics especially nylon silicon spray / ptfe is much better . wd40 can make the situation worse .

Halfway there, all you need on a boat is WD40 and Duct Tape:

If is sticks and should move: use WD40

If it moves and should stick: use Duct Tape. 

[JohnK]

Halfway there, all you need on a boat is WD40 and Duct Tape:
If is sticks and should move: use WD40
If it moves and should stick: use Duct Tape. 

That applies to motorbikes too.
Come to think of it, it applies to everything I’ve ever owned.

[DaveRolaves]

I have a Beta Marine engine in my boat. Beta Recommend WD40 to lubricate switchgear. I have used it for many years and have sprayed the engine with it, it keeps rust at Bay and keeps water out.

[Guest]

8 minutes ago, DaveRolaves said:

I have a Beta Marine engine in my boat. Beta Recommend WD40 to lubricate switchgear. I have used it for many years and have sprayed the engine with it, it keeps rust at Bay and keeps water out.

So there we go; a wonderful product endorsement for WD40.

We are now  looking for an endorsement  for Duct Tape.

[Islander]

WD40 has many uses in the mechanical world but be very careful where you use it in electronics. As mentioned it will degrade some plastics and rubber will absorb it and swell up. This can actually cause items to stick more than be freed.

Dave I would be interested to know what Bete mean by switch gear.  As for waterproofing and rust prevention it's great.

Robin, your Mr Sheen may just do the trick.

[JohnK]

So there we go; a wonderful product endorsement for WD40.
We are now  looking for an endorsement  for Duct Tape.

I’ve got a light bar on my Land Rover. The wind noise from it is horrific. I thought I’d try duct tape around the bottom to keep some wind out. My plan was if it worked to fibreglass it. A year later the duct tape is still there.
Quality product or lazy owner. You decide

[Lulu]

Duct tape is keeping our leaks at bay in our canopy.  We felt fitting a holding tank was priority and now saving up for new canopy. 

[Islander]

Lulu, how long can you cross your legs for.

Colin

[grendel]

lidl waterproof duct tape - the green one, I used it to hold a wing mirror on, last time I checked by removing the tape the mirror is only held there by the waterproof tape, the first lot lasted 2 1/2 years now on its second lot.