Winter Upgrades And Maintenance.

[Smoggy]

Aluminium anodes seems to be the choice for brackish water these days.

[MargeandParge]

I'm pretty sure I was recommended Aluminium anodes for The Broads. 

Regards Marge and Parge 

[Vaughan]

Either, will be 10 times better than none at all!

[MargeandParge]

Aluminium for fresh and brackish I also fitted one to my skeg. The one on the end of the prop is Zinc as it is closest to bronze and stainless steel. 

If you have mains hook up a galvanic isolator is a good idea as well.

Kindest Regards Marge and Parge 

[Karizma]

Great as always to log on and see so many comments / advice - thank you.

The rudder did have an 50mm disc anode attached (not sure if it was zinc or Al) and had deteriorated quite badly so I guess it had done its job nicely (though I have no idea how long it had been on the boat before we brought her). This is now being replaced with an 70mm aluminium flange anode with a stainless steel fixing screw & nut (following a search of previous comments on this forum ).

WRT the question raised regarding the spacer/metal washer at the bottom of the rudder shaft - following more researching last night I managed to find a supplier that sells SS shim washers (45mm x 32mm x 2mm) which looks exacting what I need to replace the one that's corroded / partially missing at the bottom of the shaft. And based on the posts above it looks like this is what I need considering similar / dissimilar metals.

Making progress ...... slowly 

PS: Replacing the cutlass bearing is proving more difficult that expected; well getting the old one out!). More on that to follow .....

[Vaughan]

24 minutes ago, Karizma said:

PS: Replacing the cutlass bearing is proving more difficult that expected; well getting the old one out!).

I can well imagine that!

[Karizma]

3 hours ago, Vaughan said:

I can well imagine that!

Yes looks as though it might not have been changed in a very long time - or maybe never!

Seems to have 'corroded' itself to the bronze housing as it just chips away in very small pieces with a chisel, after first trying to push it out in a 10 tonne press and it not moving at all.

Plan B is talking it to a good friends machine shop in Ipswich next week to let him do his 'magic' on it.

[Vaughan]

I assume you are sure that all the grubscews have been freed off.

It will probably need a great deal of heat at the same time as pressing.

Cutless bearings very rarely need replacing.  This is why I suggested you should check the balance of the prop and have it dressed.  Excess vibration may have been the original problem.

[Karizma]

1 hour ago, Vaughan said:

I assume you are sure that all the grubscews have been freed off.

It will probably need a great deal of heat at the same time as pressing.

Cutless bearings very rarely need replacing.  This is why I suggested you should check the balance of the prop and have it dressed.  Excess vibration may have been the original problem.

yes both grub screws came out easy.

didn't have the ability to heat it up at the same time unfortunately - maybe I should think about trying this before machining it out.........

yes, based on your advice, I've arranged for the prop to be refurbed / balanced next week to make sure the job gets done right - then I'll align the prop shaft to the engine when the boat goes back in the water. Another 'first' for me when I get to that point !

cheers,

[MY littleboat]

On 11/11/2022 at 09:44, Bluebell said:

I’m fitting a solar panel…😎

I'm getting a cap to cover mine!!!!! :)

 

[OldBerkshireBoy]

1 hour ago, Vaughan said:

I assume you are sure that all the grubscews have been freed off.

Were they ever doubled up, one on top of the other?

[BroadAmbition]

Assuming your rudder is not a top hanger another option is to use two bronze washers on the bottom pin. The top of the upper bronze washer should be grooved so the bottom of the rudder blade engages into it. The two bronze washers are water lubricated. This makes for a smooth friction free movement. Works for us

Griff

[Karizma]

1 hour ago, BroadAmbition said:

Assuming your rudder is not a top hanger another option is to use two bronze washers on the bottom pin. The top of the upper bronze washer should be grooved so the bottom of the rudder blade engages into it. The two bronze washers are water lubricated. This makes for a smooth friction free movement. Works for us

Griff

correct its not a top hanger.

interesting note regarding bronze washers as the bottom bracket that the rudder shaft sits on is bronze (see attached)- but the mating face, on the rudder, is either steel or stainless steel (I'm assuming steel as its corroding away). Maybe thats an additional 'upgrade' for the future as I've now ordered a SS replacement - unless you think this might now cause me an issue?

[annv]

Hi Karizma If no press available a hacksaw cut longitudinal will release the friction and make removing the cutlass bearing easy. John

[mikeyboy1966]

I’m certainly no expert but stainless steel ,I guess,is going to be a harder material than the bronze bracket and the steel rudder,

the thrust washer/bearing is supposed to be sacrificial IYSWIM.

I’d go with Griffs suggestion.

[mikeyboy1966]

Something else to consider,

id get all of the items in the photos blast cleaned,it’s far easier to see what’s going on with no rust/paint etc

[Vaughan]

6 minutes ago, annv said:

Hi Karizma If no press available a hacksaw cut longitudinal will release the friction and make removing the cutlass bearing easy. John

Yes, and I have seen it done.  Very difficult to achieve without damaging the bearing body.

You will probably need to get it almost red hot. If the neoprene bearing catches fire, no problem!

 

[OldBerkshireBoy]

We used to sometimes use the hacksaw trick on bronze bearings during site work, it was time consuming and a light scoring in the body from the blade wont weaken the body. Often found the grub screws had been doubled up as well.

[Karizma]

2 hours ago, mikeyboy1966 said:

I’m certainly no expert but stainless steel ,I guess,is going to be a harder material than the bronze bracket and the steel rudder,

the thrust washer/bearing is supposed to be sacrificial IYSWIM.

I’d go with Griffs suggestion.

yes I did wonder that when griff mentioned it as an option - SS washer arrived this morning ! decisions decisions .....

[Karizma]

4 hours ago, annv said:

Hi Karizma If no press available a hacksaw cut longitudinal will release the friction and make removing the cutlass bearing easy. John

Hi John, thanks for the note. I did try this after not being able to move it with a 10 tonne press (though I'm sure I never got to 10 tonne - far too scary!) and it didn't help much. Just seems to break off in little pieces, rather than 'peel' away - I think it's corroded itself to the body of the housing. Or maybe I'm just not trying hard enough - think I've convinced myself to let my mate machine it out ...... whilst making sure he doesn't remove any metal from the housing itself !!!

I'll let you know how HE () gets on.

[MargeandParge]

On 11/01/2023 at 06:24, MargeandParge said:

A lot of rudders have anodes worth investigating before you re fit. Not sure if the spacer would be softer as a sacrificial bearing or bush.

Kindest Regards Marge and Parge 

Recon you would do better with bronz as it would be the same as the carrier.

Regards Marge and Parge 

 

[Karizma]

On 12/01/2023 at 15:52, Karizma said:

 I think it's corroded itself to the body of the housing. Or maybe I'm just not trying hard enough - think I've convinced myself to let my mate machine it out ...... whilst making sure he doesn't remove any metal from the housing itself !!!

I'll let you know how HE () gets on.

Cutlass bearing finally replaced!

Mates machine shop did a great job carefully machining the internal bore until it finally 'gave way' and came out. Looked as though it had corroded itself to the internal bore (photo of old and new together).

Put the new cutlass in the freezer for a few hours and after cleaning up the internal bore pushed the new one in with a press - thankfully it went in no problem 

Now waiting for the weather to warm up a little to allow time to go and refit it to the boat.

[Karizma]

Another productive weekend putting things back on the boat ....... must mean we are making progress!

Cutlass bearing / housing fixed back in place, bonded with BossWhite (thanks Vaughan) - was a relief to find that there is now no movement between the cutlass bearing and the prop shaft!

Rudder / Skeg painted (rust eater, primer and paint), new Oilite Washer installed between the base of the rudder shaft and the base mount (thanks Griff / M&P), and fresh anode installed. Topped off with new gland packing / grease on the rudder mount.

Next steps will be antifouling, servicing the bow thruster, installing new TruDesign through hulls stopcocks, replacing the stuffing box packing and then polishing the hull ........ cant wait!!!

 

[BroadAmbition]

Nice one. Well done 

Griff

[Smoggy]

New dash layout is getting there, not finished but getting there with no spare holes.

Much more symetrical and centred on the steering centreline, big nasa depth/speed ditched for a more subtle 2" round depth sounder (speed log was inacurate or not working most of the time anyway), temperature display no longer stuck to the face, now built in to the panel.

The clear area to the left of the top panel is to allow a 10" tablet with marine navigator or OS maps as it's so much cheaper to update charts than the garmin plotter mounted on top (which is staying as well).

Before.

After.