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First winter on the broads


kathleenp

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Hi Everyone, this is our first winter with a boat on the broads - what does everyone usually do? I'm not sure we can afford to dry dock considering our already expensive mooring but keen to preserve the boat as much as possible. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks Kathleen and Kerri x :dog:

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We take our boat out of the water every three years to give it a chance to dry out and be antifouled.  Be aware that whether in or out of the water the boat will require winterising-ie water systems drained down and anti freeze added to the engine as a minimum but I am sure you will get lots of advice posted!  Regards Alan. cheersbar  :wave

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Kathleen! most people just Winterise their boats if they arn't going to use them, it's not a hard job but if your not sure just get your yard to do it, or creep around a friendly neighbour and they will help you, some of us don't do anything as we use our boats all year, Winter on the Broads can be one of the most beautiful times out and about but may need a little bit of pre planing because of the lack of facility's,,

 

Frank,,,,

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Hi Everyone, this is our first winter with a boat on the broads - what does everyone usually do? I'm not sure we can afford to dry dock considering our already expensive mooring but keen to preserve the boat as much as possible. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks Kathleen and Kerri x Animated%20Gif%20Dogs%20(127).gif

Hello Kathleen & Kerri,

Which marina are you moored in? Marinas such as Tingdene Marina will lift your boat over winter as part of your mooring fee, check with you marina if they offer something similar.

Winterising the engine and draining water tanks is a must if you are not going to the boat regularly. If your boat is left on its moorngs and is on shore power you can fit engine bay heaters that operate off of fost stats. Be warned however that most mooring providers will not guarantee a continous shore power supply.

Regards

Alan  

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Just to add to Alan's post. Ting dene don't charge for the hard standing but do charge for the lift out, lift in and choking up. Pay by the foot so the bigger your boat the more it will cost.

I think it's similar costs to other yards that might charge you for the hard standing as well.

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Hello Kathleen / Kerri

 

 What I usually do, after the engine has been looked after, is to drain all water tanks, lift all your cushions and stand them on their edges, this allows air circulation around them, and hopefully not allowing any mould to form. Some people take them all home, but I don't, and never had any problems. I also use those condensation collectors with the crystals in them, and also a load of plastic dishes filled half full of cooking salt, these help to remove any moisture from the air. I do actually leave the vents open to allow a free flow of air around the boat. Fill the fuel tank to the top, this also prevents moisture in the fuel. Open the fridge door and leave ajar. Open all doors on the cupboards, and leave open. Take home any clothing you might have on the boat. All this sounds as though it would take hours to do, but not so, maybe a couple of hours or so, and won't take too long to get the boat up and running again. Make sure that if you have a toilet with a holding tank, that you get a good pump out. 

  Hope this helps you Kathleen / Kerri

 

Baz

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Kathleen,

The other consideration as to whether you hard stand it not also depends on whether you need to have the boat lifted for anti foul, drive/prop service.

We don't use our boat over the winter but every 2 yrs I get it anti fouled and the drives serviced so she goes on a hard stand for the winter. If you think you need to do this for say April next yr you would be better to do bit now. There are also a lot of opinions on the benefits of drying out plastic boats to prevent osmosis which is another reason I do it.

Best advise, listen to us all and then piece it together to decide on what's best for you in the end.

I know some day it's easy to winterise a boat, but I have always paid to have it done. Mainly because I dont have the time and would rather spend a Saturday with the wife or fishing than cursing in the engine bay. The other is if you get it wrong and we have a cold one you will be paying out a lot more cash next year.

I'm at ting dene and there are a few independants they let in or have a word with Shaun at NYA. For a couple hundred quid I think it's worth it for peace of mind. That for 2 engines, generator and domestic system.

I could go on more but I think you will get bored.

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Winterising may be "Propper Easy" as Griff says, if you have the wherewithall to do it.

 

Driving is propper easy, unless you can't drive.

 

Here is a list of things you should consider

 

Change the engine oil

Drain the coolant from the engine or top up with compatible antifreeze

Drain Raw water from the engine's cooling circuit or run seasafe antifreze though until  you see it come through the exhaust.

If you drained the engine in above step, ensure you also fully drain the exhaust waterlock too.

 

Ideally, coat the engine in a mist spray of WD40 or similar oil to prevent rust building up.

 

Drain all the water tanks.

Disconnect the main water pump and take it home

Drain any sink or shower traps

Disconnect shower pumps and take them home

 

Pump out the toilets

Turn off all raw water stopcocks and drain the hoses connected - if not in the water, disconnect the hoses and drain; operate the sea cock a few times to remove any trapped water and leave closed.

 

Install moisture traps everywhere to reduce condensation

Leave plenty of ventilation in the boat and wipe bulkheads, walls, ceilings and so on with an antibac solution to help prevent mould growth. Remember to check under pelmets and on the roofs of cupboards and shelves.

 

Fill fuel tanks to the brim to leave no space for condensation to form.

 

Remove the curtains and soft furnishings and take them home. Not a bad idea to remove carpets too if possible.

 

Give the boat a good clean. Any algae present now will promote winter growth.

 

 

A propper job is not quick, but anything other than a propper job is likely to lead to a degree of regret and likely cost at the beginning of the new season.

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I always think that doing a proper job, both in laying up and fitting out, is one of the joys of boating. Don't know that I would take it quite to the enth degree that Andy does but perhaps for boats left afloat it is wise advice. What I will bang on about though is the wisdom of leaving valuables aboard. Thieves now know that valuables are left so they do target boats. Ventilate and remove temptation.

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That is an abbreviated list, Peter.  :shocked

 

To continue, it is advisable to ensure bilges are clean and dry.

 

Not a bad idea to put a layer of polish on all the varnish work inside and, while you are at it, any such surface (helps prevent mould from attaching itself).

 

Cover the boat in a tarp but ensure that you leave a decent air gap using some wooden planking.

 

If you have an outboard, it is recommended that you fog it before putting it away to prevent moisture from building up within. 

 

Take batteries off (if kept ashore) and store them at home, ensuring that they are topped up and charged. If left on the boat, ideally install some kind of trickle charger. 

 

There will be other ideals too, they just don't spring to mind right now. 

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Good tips.

 

I have posted this elsewhere, but we always leave a de-humudifier running all year round and never had a problem with the damp or mold. I reckon it costs me less than £20 in leccy for the year to run it.

 

If you have a self draining unit dont leave it on a counter top in case it falls off/over and don't drain it into the shower tray - you should have just winterised the sump pump.

 

I just pop to the boat regularly to check on it and empty the drip tank. Once it get settled down it keeps it pretty dry and doesn't need emptying too often. 

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I am interested in the comment about a mist of WD40 I have often wondered if the rust proofing qualities are over rated a common misconception is that it is silicon. I thought it was mainly kerosine ideal for water dispersal and penetration Thoughts please guys and gals

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Don't forget to remove shower heads. Leave taps open and remove drinking water charcoal filter also make sure the domestic water pump is dry. I have had hairline cracks on both a boat and a caravan. Sods to find and drive you mad when the air gets in

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Some very good advise there Andy.. Thanks for taking the time to do this.. very kind of you.. I must admit I've not thought of some of these.. I wonder if we can pin this permanently somewhere as it would be a good reference?! 

 

I've thought of moving it to "Technical Questions and Answers", Alan, and perhaps change the header to "Winterising your boat"?

 

Any other suggestions, please?

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Hello John, Iain,

You will have no doubt have seen that I pinned Andy's "Boat Winterisation" post onto the following location:-

http://www.thenorfolkbroads.net/forum/forum/297-boat-winterisation/

Regards

Alan

Have now Alan, thanks. I thought maybe a highlighted one as it is important item to carry out?

 

cheers Iain

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